25 replies to this topic

[IDPaddler]

Hello,

I got a brand new 2022 hawk the spring. I took it out a handful of times in cooler weather and the furnace works fantastic. Coldest nights/mornings probably upper 30s. Elevation not more than 5000 feet. Haven't used the furnace all summer.

 

Did a trip this weekend to the mountains. Was probably between 6500–8700 feet. Tried to light the furnace late in the evening, probably high 30's- low 40's. The fan would come on each time without issue. I would hear the clicking of the igniter followed by the whoosh of it lighting up (I guess that's what that sound is). However, the whoosh sound would only last for a few seconds before "burning out". After multiple tries the whoosh wouldn't even happen.

 

We bundled up for a chilly night. It was in the low 30s the next morning. Not surprisingly, the furnace wouldn't light. Interestingly, the stove would barely light. I could hear and smell (though not that strong) propane but it was a very weak flame. After a while and multiple tries the stove returned to normal function.

 

We drove up to about 8700 feet and went hiking all day. Temperatures were in the mid 50s. Back at the camper in the early evening I decided to try the furnace again. Much to my surprise it lit and stayed lit! I turned it off to see if it would work again. Unfortunately, it was one and done...never lit again.

 

Today at home at 2700 feet it's in the 60s and everything is working flawlessly.

 

I know this wasn't a power issue because my batteries are brand new and my solar panel was reading fully charged/float mode.

 

Any ideas what was causing the issue? I've done a little reading and it sounds like elevation and cold temps can cause problems with the pressure regulator? I never had this issue in a pop-up trailer I used to have. I've had camp stoves burn a little weak at elevation/very cold temps but they always worked.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

[Wandering Sagebrush]

There are several threads on this in the FWC sub forum.  IIRC, it’s because of ducting that is causing back pressure that keeps the sail switch from allowing the furnace to lighting.  I believe the solution was removing the ducting.  Stan Kennedy had weighed in on it, too.  
 

Check the forum.  If you can’t find it, send me a PM, and I’ll try and find it for you.

edit:  https://www.wanderth...ce-sail-switch/

 

https://youtu.be/iJq7As3brCM

 

 

one of the last posts in this thread.

[ski3pin]

Since you say the stove had a weak flame also, it could be that you turned on the gas at the tank too quickly overpowering the overflow protection devise. Turn off the gas at the tank, discontent the supply hose, reconnect the supply hose, and then turn the valve slowly to turn the gas supply back on.

[IDPaddler]

Great. Thanks for the replies and the links. I've had a look a the vid and done some more googling. So is the thought that with colder air the sail switch is not functioning as it should? 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Great. Thanks for the replies and the links. I've had a look a the vid and done some more googling. So is the thought that with colder air the sail switch is not functioning as it should? 

I don’t believe it’s temp related, but rather density.  If your camper has the issue with the ducting restricting out flow, that might be contributing or the root cause.  Some members have removed the duct, and simply let the warm air flow through the louvered vent.

[IDPaddler]

I don’t believe it’s temp related, but rather density.  If your camper has the issue with the ducting restricting out flow, that might be contributing or the root cause.  Some members have removed the duct, and simply let the warm air flow through the louvered vent.

I guess I'll remove the duct if/when it happens again. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

[Old Crow]

Since you say the stove had a weak flame also, it could be that you turned on the gas at the tank too quickly overpowering the overflow protection devise. Turn off the gas at the tank, discontent the supply hose, reconnect the supply hose, and then turn the valve slowly to turn the gas supply back on.

 

Stan tells us about this problem in the following video.... (I have the video starting at the 1:30 mark)

 

Propane Tanks use review

[UmkaAndHawk]

As already state in the thread, a likely explanation is back pressure from the poor ducting design which limits the air over the sail switch, and is a problem when the air is too thin (at altitude). We had exactly this problem with ours.

 

We did *not* wind up having to remove the ducting completely! Instead we were able to remove just the louvers in front (and replace them with some metal screen to keep out fingers) and this was enough.

 

I don't love the idea of removing the ducting completely if you don't have to because then the furnace will end up eating even more of its own air, which obviously works but I felt was sub-optimal.

Good luck!

[IDPaddler]

As already state in the thread, a likely explanation is back pressure from the poor ducting design which limits the air over the sail switch, and is a problem when the air is too thin (at altitude). We had exactly this problem with ours.

 

We did *not* wind up having to remove the ducting completely! Instead we were able to remove just the louvers in front (and replace them with some metal screen to keep out fingers) and this was enough.

 

I don't love the idea of removing the ducting completely if you don't have to because then the furnace will end up eating even more of its own air, which obviously works but I felt was sub-optimal.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the reply! I'm pretty certain this was the issue. I'm glad to know there is a work around. It would be totally ridiculous if these furnaces were obsolete at low temps and/or elevation. 

[MountainSufi]

FWIW, both my dealer & I have found the Honeywell digital thermostats are unreliable. I've happily replaced with the "old fashioned" analog model. Buy a spare; it's cheap & takes littler room in your store space.

Edited by MountainSufi, 11 October 2022 - 11:36 PM.