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Alaskan camper - Connecting top and bottom wiring ideas

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#11 OregonOzzy

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Posted 08 April 2023 - 12:22 AM

PNWAC, I am in the middle of undoing and redoing the PO's electrical system on a 2000's era 10' CO. To give you some ideas, PO was carrying kayaks in addition to a 200W solar panel so built a heavy-duty rack. 

Solar Panel Install
 
The top to bottom in that era of camper is via a bundle of cables wrapped in a cloth (velcroed) sleeve that has plenty of room to add more wires. This image is off the web... (mine is similar).
InkedUpDownConduit

 

Entry of solar panel wire to top half is via the cable entry gland. Here is a pic of mine...
Solar Gland

 

The MPPT, Shunt, battery and most of the messy wiring is all under the driver side bench similar to Cowgirl's, that I am in the process of cleaning up.


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2000 Alaskan 10' CO

2018 F-350 Extended Cab 8'

 

 

 


#12 Dr.Science

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Posted 08 April 2023 - 12:58 AM

My 1990 Alaskan has a black spiral cord connecting the upper to the lower shell, as shown in the photo. It also had an external jack due to the rather bizarre system of taking shore power into the lower shell, routing it to a power center in the upper shell, and then back down through 12V in the spiral cord. Spiral extension cords of similar design are on Amazon; you'll probably want 3 conductors with one hot, one ground, and one truck power for your running lights.

 

Regarding wire sizes, this wire gauge calculator is useful. I used it when I rewired my Alaskan.

https://www.wirebarn...tor-_ep_41.html

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Edited by Dr.Science, 08 April 2023 - 01:02 AM.

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#13 PNWalaskanCamper

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Posted 10 April 2023 - 07:59 PM

Dr.Science, that spiral wire is exactly what I was thinking about doing, thanks. I think I am going to do one 18AWG spiral in that same corner to power lights, fans, etc in the ceiling, then by the door near the back I will have a 10AWG spiral bringing the solar power down from the roof to the batteries.

OregonOzzy, wow, that is a very sturdy looking rack! Thanks for the ideas, I will definitely be getting some sort of wire "gland" like that one to bring the wires inside the camper.


Edited by PNWalaskanCamper, 10 April 2023 - 07:59 PM.

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#14 ntsqd

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Posted 19 April 2023 - 01:12 AM

Can buy 7 conductor coiled trailer to tow rig "jumper" cables with mostly appropriate wire sizes.

 

https://www.etrailer...G54006-043.html

 


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#15 Keith in Co

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Posted 23 April 2023 - 05:12 AM

 

I ran a bundle of wires from the top to bottom half by drilling a hole in the corner of the bottom of the cabinet above the stove top, and in the corner of the stove countertop. Used expandable branded wire wrap. 8awg wires come down from the solar panels and 10awg wires (+/-) go back up from the battery to the new upper fuse panel for the porch light, ceiling fan, water pump switch, and ceiling lights.  Routed wires behind kitchen cabinets and around under floor cabinet (under kitchen table) to the right side cabinet where my 100ah lithium battery and Renogy controller-DC/DC charger are located. 
My three 100w solar panels are bolted to 1.5” mill finish square aluminum tubing, which is bolted to the original Alaskan canoe rack brackets. This rack has proved to be sturdy, versatile, and secure.  I would not glue solar panels to my roof.

Also deleted the original porch light and mounted a gland there to run wires up and into the upper cabinet.  The new porch light is a 40 LED unit, which is visible to distant galaxies, and is mounted to the rear of the roof rack.

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#16 Bos_Trok

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Posted 06 September 2023 - 09:25 PM

I’m going to something like that. I will post pictures when it’s installed! I bought all my renogy stuff from eBay. They have an eBay store for returns and refurbished items. I saved a lot of money that way.

 

Yes, they do, because their products fail and get warrantied and returned. I have had bad luck with Renogy.

 

I had a expensive DC/DC converter fail in the worst imaginable way, draining my starting batteries, stranding my pickup, less than 6 months after purchase. I will add that I have had good luck with their solar panels. For electronics, I stick with Victron now if possible.

 

I notice you have a 1000W inverter, what are you planning on running with that much AC power? Hope you have a big bank of batteries. I use a big inverter like that for a water heater, but I have 280ah of LiFePO4, and even then I don't like watching my capacity go down that quick and would rather charge on the road via alternator.

 

Anyway, love the Alaskan, and its always nice to get some power from the sun!

 

On to the OP question, how about 2 "conduits" like PVC or ABS pipes or even some sort of square channel, that could overlap/envelop each other. One fastened to the top, one to the bottom and the wires would live inside. Sort of like the old radio and TV antennas that were retractable.


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1965 8" NCO Alaskan, low side service bed, and 2002 Cummins 2500

Check out my gallery as I update my camper

20230917 181412
Album: Progress pics on the 65 NCO
29 images
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#17 Bos_Trok

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Posted 20 October 2023 - 04:11 PM

New post, since I have done this in an actual Alaskan now.

 

I deemed the 120vac "shore power" setup worthless for my application so I simply plugged a 3 prong pigtail that is connected to my house battery, through a fuse, into the outlet that was located above my fridge cabinet. Effectively back-feeding 12V into the existing upper camper wiring and fixtures.

 

The pigtail is connected to 12v DC from my house battery, and now all the existing plugs and light fixtures in the upper half of the camper are 12V as well. Breaker box was removed and its just a junction for the wiring in the wooden box on the ceiling now. I was also able to fish a wire from the ceiling box over to the roof vent space so I could install a 10 speed intake/exhaust fan. (After I replaced the rotten wood surrounding the OG vent)

 

Drawback is that you have to unplug the pig tail from the outlet it to lower the top half, so you wont have top half power in the lowered position. Also, the prongs of your pigtail are live, so cover them with something when you unplug, or you will short them out on the metal venting above the fridge (Learned this the hard way).

 

One other thing, I changed the outside plug to an outlet. This way, no one is going to try and plug 120VAC into the 12V system, and now I have a convenient spot to run 12V things on the outside of the camper as well.

 

House battery resides in the huge void behind the DC fridge, along with 1500W inverter for water heater, a DC-DC charge relay, and 2 AC battery chargers. Outside vent is plugged with foil backed foam insulation. New shore power plug is on the back of the camper and connects to battery chargers only.


Edited by Bos_Trok, 20 October 2023 - 05:56 PM.

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1965 8" NCO Alaskan, low side service bed, and 2002 Cummins 2500

Check out my gallery as I update my camper

20230917 181412
Album: Progress pics on the 65 NCO
29 images
0 comments

 


#18 Kansafornia

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Posted 05 January 2024 - 05:35 AM

I purchased an Iron Forge Cable (SJEOW 10' Black) to span the lower and upper 12 circuit Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks (15 amps to the upper - lights only). 

 

Here's a pic of it hanging down through the upper shelf prior to me remounting the top half of my Alaskan. Coiled cord to the left.  Hope that helps!

 

https://www.wanderth...-upper-rebuild/


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