23 replies to this topic

[Jon R]

I can, but I’m not at home so it will be later tonight. My cable is a fairly small diameter FAKRA patch cord purchased on Amazon. I ran it behind the aluminum strip on the door that protects the door from being dented by the folding step. Then it loops up to provide bending relief and then runs down the door frame in a channel of the frame that fits the wire perfectly. The truck connector is under the back of the bed. I have it taped in place along the door frame channel with good quality white electrical tape. The tape looks shabby after two seasons so I replace it when needed.

[Vic Harder]

Here is my second revision which includes a "door loop" for the wire with the green square representing 1x1-inch self adhesive cable ties.

 

rather than the self adhesive cable ties, why not use the existing screws holding the door frame in place?

[Jon R]

Here are a few more pictures as requested

Attached Files

•  6AA82D34-AFED-449B-B25F-EB0F2A992EBB.jpeg   157.75K   30 downloads
•  097D30C7-8A0D-4802-AA9A-29F5E103EE5F.jpeg   106.33K   31 downloads
•  B431A6B5-452B-4E2B-9297-0FE8AC7ED112.jpeg   172.14K   27 downloads

[ramblinChet]

I appreciate the ideas and pictures shared so far. Here are supplies I ordered to assist with the installation of my backup camera:

 

Vibration-Damping Loop Clamp

304 Stainless Steel with EPDM Rubber Cushion, 3/8" ID

 

 

Rounded Head Thread-Cutting Screws for Metal

Zinc-Plated Steel, 1/4"-20 Thread, 3/8" Long

 

 

TiN-Coated High-Speed Steel Short-Length Drill Bit

Wire Gauge Size 2, 2-1/2" Overall Length

 

 

Receipt for reference:

 

​

 

[Vic Harder]

I'm pretty sure you do NOT want self-cutting/threading screws.  They tend to make bigger holes and strip more easily in our campers.

[kmcintyre]

It looks like you have a RAM and I did something similar... I sold the truck and can't find a picture but I took the cable out of the tailgate, attached it to the bracket of the back to give me a longer cable.  I then made a "bracket" out of a piece of 2x4 and cut it to the correct angle.  I then routered out the backside of the 2x4 so tha OEM camera would fit in the back and drilled a hole for the camera eye.  I had a platform on mine too (looks like you have one) and I painted it to match.  You'd never really know it was there.

[Cpt Davenport]

I'm pretty sure you do NOT want self-cutting/threading screws.  They tend to make bigger holes and strip more easily in our campers.

I have had great success with rivets on my camper (2 awnings, bike fork mounts, trash can mount, solar panel). I even replaced some of the stripped self tappers at the screen door hinge with rivets. On exterior applications, I like to use some 5200 no matter what hardware is used.

[ramblinChet]

My most recent modification involved transferring my OEM backup camera from my tailgate to the rear door of my Four Wheel Camper. It sounds like a fairly easy evolution but I have a habit of spending dozens of hours contemplating various options, researching components and even comparing the same components produced by different manufacturers. Trust me, there are differences and I am happy to take a little bit longer, and pay slightly more, for a much better overall package.

 

Most of the components for this modification originated from two companies: Rostra and McMaster-Carr. The picture below is of the finished product and since the placement of the camera was made in accordance with Ram_HD CC_Camera System - Analog_2019+_Rev A.pdf (see attached) which specifies an ideal camera height of 55", the camera being centered, and at an angle of 42° relative to the ground. The reverse image displayed on my OEM center console screen is perfect.

 

After backing up using only side mirrors for such a long time it was refreshing to use the OEM camera once again.

 

My OEM tailgate was pulled from storage and it took just a few tools and a couple of minutes to remove the OEM camera. Once you remove the metal panel on the inside vertical face of the tailgate there are two screws, and one electrical connection to address. The tailgate handle will begin to move about once the screws are loosened but you still much reach inside along the top of the handle to depress the two plastic holders and then it will pop right out. After that there are four small Torx screws that are removed from a plastic retainer and out comes the camera.

 

The instructions for the Rostra mount  suggest routing the camera's LVDS cable out the rear of the housing and this is why you see the large hole in the back. I was not excited about complicating this installation by running the wire through the door and then the wall of the camper so I elected to drill a hole in the side and pass the corrugated conduit through there. It worked out although I will state the design of the housing places the LVDS connector in conflict with the surface of the door when mounted so it was still necessary to relieve the area. If they would have made the housing another 3-5mm thicker this all could have been avoided. It's still a very nice housing though with the camera fitting perfectly inside.

 

Here is the corrugated conduit and LVDS exiting the housing and then turning up preparing to cross over door hinge. Time will tell if this loop works or not although I suspect it will be fine for many years.

 

A close up of the corrugated conduit looping up and across door hinge. In many industrial or commercial applications where a wire jumps across a door hinge you will see it looping down but in this case the assembly was so light that I elected to use this shorter and more direct route by utilizing a vertical loop.

 

What was really nice is the corrugated conduit I used was perfect size relative to the OEM connector on the rear of the bed. Everything fits perfectly and I wish I could say that I had planned this section this way but I didn't - I actually intended to drill a slightly larger hole, install a protective bushing, and penetrate the sheet metal that way. Once I was working down in the area I took a closer look at the OEM connector, compared sizes, and elected to pass the corrugated conduit through this existing entry point. It works well and looks clean.

 

I celebrated the installation by driving down to Yorktown Beach, confidently backing into a parking space, and taking a nice long walk along the shore.

Edited by ramblinChet, 28 September 2023 - 02:54 PM.

[Jsoboti]

Super clean! Well done! I've been putting this project off for almost 2 years, I think you've inspired me to go for it. 

 

Would there have been enough room for you to mount the camera above the door, below the roof? Im thinking If I can do that I'll be able to see over my spare tire and bike rack, and eliminate bending the wire to the camera. Thanks!

[ramblinChet]

Prior to departing for Overland Expo East I took a few minutes to complete detail work on my Rostra camera relocation housing that was recently installed. The cover did was not able to fully snap on perfectly and I suspected there was internal conflict so it was time to open it back up one final time to correct this minor issue.

 

Note the round hole in the door of the camper with insulation inside that I previously believed was unnecessary since I was passing the LVDS cable out the side. It turns out the rear of the LVDS connection plug sticks out past the rear of the housing by 1-2mm. While this does not seem to be much it was enough to prevent the housing cover from properly being seated. By first drilling, then grinding this hole, there is no longer any conflict and the cover is fully seated.

 

Here is a picture of the OEM camera that has been removed from the stock tailgate and installed into the cover of the Rostra housing. Again, I must admit that the housing was much nicer than I originally suspected it would be and the camera snaps into place perfectly.

 

Edited by ramblinChet, 13 October 2023 - 11:47 PM.