418 replies to this topic

[Occidental]

The post I used as a guide the most was Bucklands post (last link on the first post to this thread.  In post #52 of that thread Buckland posted a pdf with the steps to follow and they worked for me.  The only thing I screwed up was in drilling one of the holes I hit the lighting wiring and one of my exterior lights no longer works, so be extra careful about drilling out the back - I thought I was but alas....

 

He installed the top ball for the struts first and the found the location of the bottom.

 

Anyway, the pertinent text from Bucklands text for your questions may be:

Step ten: lower the roof. I made a jig from a ¼” thick piece of wood 1” wide and 42” long to layout the lower strut locations. drill a ⅛” hole about ½” from one end and then measure, on center, 40” and make a mark. Drill 7/16” hole. It should be 40” center to center. Hang this on the upper ball bracket and let it hang down then move it towards the center of camper. We are looking to put this mark 2 ½” up from the bottom edge of the front overhang. Do this to both sides and really take the time to be sure you are spot on! Then make a divot where you are to drill.

 

It looks like the document might be at this link:

http://file:///home/...struts pdf2.pdf

[Vic Harder]

+1 on Buckland's PDF!!

[edwards151]

I’m in the process of installing 3 x 165 watt solar panels on the roof and have been researching installing the 4 exterior gas struts on my 2009 Hawk. It currently has the two interior struts that I want to delete. The panels are 25# each plus I have the two Yakima cross bars installed in the factory ‘T’ track. I’m thinking 60# struts. My thinking is this. If the stock setup is 4 x 30# struts, going to 4 x 60# struts should give me 120 more pounds of force. I have probably close to 100# extra weight up there now. What do you all think?

I also noticed that some folks use the ball brackets top and bottom, where 4WC seems to use brackets on the top and thru bolts (ball stud and barrel nut with large washers) on the bottom. It seems to me the latter option would be stronger? But maybe I’m overthinking this.

Thanks!

[Lighthawk]

We have a 2008 FWC Hawk with one solar panel, and just replaced our ten year old 40# lifters.

Either one of us can easily lift it.  When we put the rocket box on top, it's just barely doable.  If one person pushes up on the outside it helps, or with two inside we can do it.   60# sounds about right.

 

Be sure you have a strategy to compress the lifters.  I modified a pipe clamp to get mine on.

[Jon R]

I have a Grandby, so the roof is a bit bigger, and I have two 200 watt panels that installed weigh about 53 lbs on the Yakima tracks. I changed my struts to 40lb and it’s about right. After I release the end boards, I have to pull the roof down 1/3 to get it started in front and about 1/2 way down in the back. Even so, the initial few inches of lift in the front are tough for my wife.

You can’t really solve that initial lift difficulty with struts because the angle of the struts at that point doesn’t allow them to assist. Best thing is to keep the weight down.

My owners manual contains a red printed warning not to use struts with more than 40 lbs rating. I think the weakest point is the roof bracket for the struts, as you said. There have been people discussing having broken the screws for those in past threads.

[MountainSufi]

Howdy from Jackson Hole!

 

The modified crankup speaker stand inside lift (discussed elsewhere) works just fine for me starting to get things up. 

 

The market is flooded with cheapo gas springs. I recommend sourcing from Canadian Gemini Gas Springs. They custom manufacture up to 100 lbs.

 

Our Jackson Hole Four Wheel Camper dealer told me he doesn't recommend over 60 lb springs because the ball attachments just aren't very strong... He did say he didn't think I'd have problems with my empty Yakima round bars, 1 solar panel, & recovery boards.

 

Happy Trails!

[57Pan]

Just finished putting struts on my ATC Bobcat. I installed SUSPA c16-15952 struts that I got off eBay for $80 for 4. They are 40lb struts which without any extras on my roof is just about to much. It raises quite easily, in fact the front almost goes up by itself. The problem is when lower the roof I’m afraid to pull on the support boards to get it down so for the time being I’m going outside the camper and pulling it down that way, after of course releasing tension on the support boards first from the inside. 30 lb struts probably would have been better in my case, except they seem to be special order and are a lot more money.
They now have an install video on 4 wheel camper’s website for anyone wanting to install struts.

[TacomaAustin]

Just finished putting struts on my ATC Bobcat.------- They are 40lb struts which without any extras on my roof is just about to much.

Once you install a rigid solar panel with whatever mounting hardware, the two 40 lb gas struts up front will be just about right.  With the solar install I have pair of 40 lb struts on the front and 30 lb struts on the rear.

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

57Pan, I also have a Bobcat full camper 2009. I installed the same struts you have,back when the camper was new.

In 2009 struts weren't installed on new campers. I don't have any problems with lowering the top,though I have been using the "fan" method when I lower the top.

 

Close the door and all windows,run the fan at highest speed to exhaust the air as you lower the top.

Works great and also helps with pulling the corners in.

Once you get things on the roof the shocks will be easier to lower.

 

Enjoy your Bobcat.

Frank

[MountainSufi]

57Pan, Yup, the closed windows & fan trick works well. I also put a large screen door type handle on the push bar.