19 replies to this topic

[jimjxsn]

Mark, I once picked up a solenoid battery seperator at a Checker auto parts store.

Alternatively you could temporarily install a manual switch in its place until you can get the battery seperator. That way you could at least charge the camper. Just don't forget to turn the switch off when you stop to camp.

[chnlisle]

Ben
That was my thought as well I have a 30A inline fuse and figured it would do the trick.

[Pete D]

The thermal breaker is also the auto-reset circuit breaker if the auto-reset model is purchased (nothing special about the thermal part as that's how many circuit breakers operate). My guess is that the in-line fuse and the breaker are redundant protection (unless one considers the breaker to be protecting the fuse if the breaker is faster than the fuse...).

Come to think of it, the fuse is also thermal Breakers, at $5-6, are less expensive in the long run than ATC/ATO fuses; personally, I don't like the in-line glass fuse holders because they tend to have corrosion problems, esp around batteries...

http://www.crowbarel...Fuseholders.htm

[Pete D]

The thermal breaker is also the auto-reset circuit breaker if the auto-reset model is purchased (nothing special about the thermal part as that's how many circuit breakers operate). My guess is that the in-line fuse and the breaker are redundant protection (unless one considers the breaker to be protecting the fuse if the breaker is faster than the fuse...).

Come to think of it, the fuse is also thermal

Breakers are less expensive in the long run than ATC fuses if you buy the fuses in onesy-twosy; personally, I don't like the in-line glass fuse holders because they tend to have corrosion problems, esp around batteries and prefer the covered ATC holders.

http://www.crowbarel...Fuseholders.htm

[chnlisle]

Pete,
When it comes to airplane systems and my electrical system I say you cant have too much redundancy. I've got everything fused all over the place just in case I did something wrong. Which for me is a daly occurance.

[Pete D]

I hear you about redundancy.

Actually, what I have done on my wiring systems is an auto-reset circuit breaker at the truck battery and another at the house battery, with no fuses in the system -- I don't want to find the fuse was blown by discovering a dead battery when I expected a live one. I got the idea from the trailer brake control specifying an ARCB for the brake wire (apparently so one doesn't have to climb out on the hood to change a fuse whilst rocketing down a mountain pass...)

[chnlisle]

Great idea. Where is it available?

[Pete D]

Auto-reset circuit breakers (ARCB - aka Type 1 thermal recycling) are available all over the place, like auto parts stores, Ace Hdwr and even WalMart. I believe they come in sizes from 6 to 50Amps and a variety of different ways to fasten them down. Some ARCBs are marked as to which terminal is the battery or the load, so pay attention to that.

Hmm, I wish I'd known there are "boots" available for them; I tie-wrapped some split cable loom over mine in case someone clumsy dropped a tool on them...

I made up a short wire between a copper lug on one screw of my battery terminal (my Ranger is Mazda-based, so it uses the steel battery clamps, not lead ones) and put crimp ring terminals on the ARCB.

BTW, if you are using crimp terminals, do NOT tin/solder the wire ends before crimping -- The solder may 'cold creep' over time and pressure and the connection will loosen.

[chnlisle]

Thanks Pete I'll be working on that today.

[craig333]

I use nothing but heat shrink connectors now. Some even come with solder inside. A little pricey but it makes a good strong connection.