38 replies to this topic

[Chel]

My 2008 Tundra/ Hawk combo has served me well- 165 nights camping, 35k miles and lots of rugged roads- White Rim, Magruder, Lolo motorway et al. I took the camper off yesterday- first time since it was installed in 2008- and was surprised to find cracks in the pickup bed. 1/2" to 1 1/2" cracks, all the way through the bed, outboard of all 4 eyebolts. The camper was professionally installed in my brand new truck. I am diligent about checking turnbuckles and conservative in my driving speed. Anyone else have this problem and what was your repair solution?

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[SunMan]

My 2008 Tundra/ Hawk combo has served me well- 165 nights camping, 35k miles and lots of rugged roads- White Rim, Magruder, Lolo motorway et al. I took the camper off yesterday- first time since it was installed in 2008- and was surprised to find cracks in the pickup bed. 1/2" to 1 1/2" cracks, all the way through the bed, outboard of all 4 eyebolts. The camper was professionally installed in my brand new truck. I am diligent about checking turnbuckles and conservative in my driving speed. Anyone else have this problem and what was your repair solution?

I had a corner start to pull up in my 2006...got a $40 Mig weld job down in the barrio and I've been good ever since. Its been over 2 years now, a little weld job and you should be fine, maybe have them put a plate behind it for extra piece of mind.

[SLO_F-250]

Yea, Its doesn't surprise me. The thin walled metal flexing over and over again is bound to develop cracks. Like Sunman said, get it welded up and just watch it.

You could also beef it up by welding some thicker metal around the area, or get some bigger diameter washers for your bolt. That will help distribute the load. Thicker and bigger washers would be really easy.

I am going to be watching mine closely and will probably end up welding some thicker material around the bolted area.
Good luck!

[ntsqd]

I made load spreading plates for my install. They're 3/16" thick and about 3" x 4" and have radiused corners as well as radiused edges (don't need the corners and edges acting like an old oil can opener). I did NOT weld them in place, and I would not recommend doing so. The reason is that the weld will create a large stress riser in the form of a massive change in thickness combined with a usually unfavorable change in the metal's internal structure. (Think of all welds as being "On-site Castings" when considering welding because metalurgically that is what they are.) I did carefully place the holes so that the plates overlap the flange of one of the 'hat' section under-bed structures and it looks like you may have that same opportunity judging by the line of adjacent spot welds.

I would weld the cracks in sheet-metal. Strongly suggest drilling a ~1/8" hole at the very ends of the cracks first. That will stop any inclination for the crack to continue out beyond the end of the weld.

[5444]

My 2008 Tundra/ Hawk combo has served me well- 165 nights camping, 35k miles and lots of rugged roads- White Rim, Magruder, Lolo motorway et al. I took the camper off yesterday- first time since it was installed in 2008- and was surprised to find cracks in the pickup bed. 1/2" to 1 1/2" cracks, all the way through the bed, outboard of all 4 eyebolts. The camper was professionally installed in my brand new truck. I am diligent about checking turnbuckles and conservative in my driving speed. Anyone else have this problem and what was your repair solution?

I was concerned when I saw this so I called FWC. I believe the owner answered the phone because I recognized his voice from all of the videos. I asked about reinforcing plates. He stated they supply a 1/8" thick and about 2"x 4" piece of aluminum for underneath the bed for reinforcement. They also use 2" washer for the top of the inside bed. I was concerned that the different type of metals would react to each other over time. He stated it isn't a concern because of the small contact area. I also asked about putting a plate inside the bed and he stated it wasn't necessary because all of the force would be coming from the bottom. He also mentioned that the turn buckles must be kept tight. If they are allowed to loosen this could still be a problem.

What is everyone's thoughts on the new method for reinforcing the bed. Is this sufficient, or should overkill be observed and use a plate on top also?

[Darryla]

I noticed some lifting in my bed so I put 1/4 steel plates on the underside. I have not seen any problems since.

Darryl

[ntsqd]

The load is tensile, a plate on the top won't do much of anything. You have bigger problems if the turn-buckles are trying to push the eye-bolts down from the top.

[Chel]

The load is tensile, a plate on the top won't do much of anything. You have bigger problems if the turn-buckles are trying to push the eye-bolts down from the top.

[Chel]

Thanks everyone for your input.
My Hawk was installed with fender washers above and below the bed. Probably enough for most but I guess I pegged the fun meter more than average. A couple years ago on the White Rim I straightened a turnbuckle hook...hard to believe but when I checked the TB's at our Potato Butte (aka tater butt) camp the second night one turnbuckle was hanging loose, the truck bed end hook straight as an arrow.....
The local Toyota dealer said that it would be about $500 to weld the cracks and another $500 to do a bondo and paint job to return my Tundra to showroom condition. (Except for all the Idaho, Nevada and Arizona pinstripes, Hah!)They won't touch a backing plate fabrication order. I am currently shopping some weld and fabrication shops. Looks like I can get the job done for a couple hundred. Drill holes at ends of cracks, weld cracks, fabricate 1/4" steel backing plates with radiused edges. I will post pix when done.

[Phird05]

When I was researching the purchase of a camper some seven years ago, I saw that FWC did the truck bed mounts and had a concern about drilling through the bed, as I saw a few posts describing the bolts pulling through. It was not a factor in my decision when I purchased my camper, but I have never been one for drilling into any part my trucks or cars over the years. Since I travel some fairly rough roads getting to my destinations, I decided to use the Torklift frame mount tie downs, front and rear. They installed the bumper buttons for the rear tie downs before I realized there were rear frame mounts available that mount to frame at the tow hitch system. I abandoned the bumper button tie downs and immediately purchased the rear tie downs as well and was totally satisfied. No part of the tie down mounting system touches the vehicle body/bed/bumper anywhere. Installing the frame mounts was simple as well. I believe I saw a post a number of years ago where FWC did do external tie downs in addition to the bolts through truck bed. Maybe you have a choice when ordering. IMHO, it just seems more stable and eliminates the possibility of damage to the truck to go directly to the frame.

Good Camping,

Paul