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waeco fridge / freezer ARB Icebox

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#11 camelracer

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 06:09 AM

I installed a Truckfridge TF130 to replace my 3CF Norcold. It seems to work well. The only downside I've discovered so far is that the freezer is a little small and the door shelves aren't adjustable. I ordered the 12v model because my inverter handles the 120v / 12v conversion.

 

The Truckfridge is the same as the more expensive Isotherm marine refrigerators. I ordered mine from gotruckstop.com but it was shipped from the Kentucky Truckfridge facility. Don't bother with the installation kit because it won't work with the space available.


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#12 jlrray

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 06:25 AM

Sounds great! I was just going to ask if anyone bothered with the flush mounted flange kit thing.  GoTruckStop has em on sale now...  from truckfridge, its only $599 but you have to pay $100 shipping.  GoTruckstop.com has it for 679.99 with shipping.  Not much, but every little bit helps.


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#13 craig333

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 11:50 PM

On mine the wires were already in place. Behind the original ice box. Its easy to wire either way.


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#14 jlrray

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 06:55 AM

After much deliberation, I decided to get both.  A small Dometic 25 Top Loading fridge / freezer for the cab of the truck and a TruckFridge 130 to replace the icebox in the FWC.  I attempted to take pictures the whole way through installation; however, once I inserted the card in the computer, there was nothing to download.  I must have corrupted it someway.  In anycase, I'll try and describe what I did and see if I can edit this later and re-insert pics.

 

Removal of the icebox was pretty easy.  Remove 4 screws and pull out the drain tube.  After that, you'll need to remove and discard the drawer above it and the entire face of the cabinet.  You're going to have to remove all of the drawer support pieces.  In my FWC, I used a square head bit.

 

The directions state that you should make sure that the fridge / freezer is upright for a minimum of 4 hours before powering up the fridge.  Mine was upright the whole time I had it, so I figured i was good to go.  I tried to dry fit the fridge and then realized that the tolerances on the side were fairly tight.  I had to remove the top screw of the L brackets so that the side of the fridge would fit in the opening.  I also had to remove the lower screw for the L brackets that held the counter top in place.  

 

FWC pre-wires the area for a fridge which is incredibly convenient, so I tested the power on the wires and then connected them with the supplied coupling.

 

I still need to figure out a good way to ensure that the fridge does NOT slide out, but its difficult to move as it is, It may not move at all.  

 

The Blue LED coloring looks kinda disco in my camper, but I think its kinda neat that it doesn't kill your night vision when looking for the cookies you hid from your kids. 

 

All in all, it went together well and I spent probably and hour or so on this... So far a worthwhile modification.

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#15 craig333

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 02:40 AM

Sounds like my experience. Glad it worked well.


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#16 camelracer

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 05:44 AM

jlrray,

 

I had the same fit issues you did with the width. I ended up removing the round head screws in the cabinet L brackets, countersinking the bracket holes and using flat head screws. To hold the fridge in place I followed MarkBC's post and drilled and screwed the lower hinge brackets. I also screwed through the upper flange using a spacer into the cabinet top. I used L brackets at the back of the fridge but if you don't have outside access that wouldn't be possible.


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#17 craig333

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 04:16 PM

I never secured mine at the rear or anywhere other than the front. So far it hasn't budged a bit and I really don't expect it to. I do have access to the rear if I ever do need to secure it better.


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#18 MarkBC

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 05:04 PM

...a TruckFridge 130 to replace the icebox in the FWC....

 

Cool -- looks and fits just like mine, except that mine is the Isotherm-branded 130.


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#19 jlrray

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 02:11 AM

From pictures online, The ISOTHERM branded 130 has a better door lock than the Truck Fridge 130.  The truck fridge latch screams toy.  I'm gonna have to find a better more "industrial" way to keep the door closed and latched.  I wonder if I can buy a replacement ISOTHERM door and do a direct install in the truck fridge.

 

Also -- if anyone has a good picture or description of your front mounting of the fridge (so it doesnt move) can you post it?


Edited by jlrray, 07 July 2013 - 02:13 AM.

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#20 camelracer

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Posted 07 July 2013 - 08:04 PM

From pictures online, The ISOTHERM branded 130 has a better door lock than the Truck Fridge 130.  The truck fridge latch screams toy.  I'm gonna have to find a better more "industrial" way to keep the door closed and latched.  I wonder if I can buy a replacement ISOTHERM door and do a direct install in the truck fridge.

 

Also -- if anyone has a good picture or description of your front mounting of the fridge (so it doesnt move) can you post it?

I drilled the lower hinges and put a 1/4 inch oak spacer under them then screwed into the cabinet floor. I also put a spacer over the upper fridge flange and put 3 screws through the flange and spacer into the top of the cabinet.

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