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ID-MT-WY?: Desert Rat Venturing Outside His Comfort Zone Seeks Input


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#21 Foy

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 09:09 PM

But wait, there's more............................

 

I've never been there, but the Big Belt and Little Belt Mountains, generally north of I-90 and east of I-15 in the White Sulphur Springs area, look mighty nice.  Lewis & Clark NF is the FS unit there.

 

I mentioned Philipsburg, and while I believe you're not crazy about towns and their populations, you might can make an exception for Philipsburg.  Good food, good ice cream and fudge, and great folks, all in a very nice little town.  Above P'burg is the ghost town of Granite.  It's a steep and fairly narrow graded gravel road up there, but I took my Ford up there without a problem or concern.  People drive cars up there every day, so it's not rough.  There's walking tour of the townsite and a load of mining ruins. 

 

On the east end of Anaconda, the smelter structures are still there and some are being used for metal fabrication work nowadays.  The 585' tall smelter smokestack still stands and can be seen for many miles around.

 

From a point near the stack, MT 569(?) runs south, over the Divide (with some exceptional views just on the far side of the Divide), down to the Big Hole River/MT 43 a few miles west of the village of Wise River.  If you're headed from Rock Creek or Philipsburg towards the Big Hole or the Pioneers, this is your route. 

 

From MT 43 east of Wise River, Quartz Hill Rd runs up a few miles to Vipond Park. Vipond Park is a park in the sense that the term applies to an open, upland plain surrounded by mountains.  Vipond Park is a true hidden gem and lies within the Beaverhead-Deerlodge NF, so disbursed campingis available most anywhere.  Travel  the main road for 3-4 miles through and across the park to where it reaches a bluff overlooking Canyon Creek. The road becomes a shelf road there but wil easily carry your rig to the floor of the Canyon Creek Valley. Canyon Creek is a box canyon, so head downstream, past Canyon Creek Cabin, past the "beehive" charcoal kiln structures so well preserved, to and  through the former smelter town of Glendale, and finally to the Big Hole River crossing at Melrose, astride I-15. 

 

Up the Byway from the village of Wise River, Mono Creek CG is a nice spot and is close to the ghost town of Coolidge.  Coolidge is a well-preserved ghost town and the remains of the mill built to treat the ores are huge and impressive.  Note that you can see the shorn-off side of Comet Mountain from Coolidge.

 

In Butte you can see the Berkeley Pit, one of the largest open-pit mines on Earth.  It's slowly filling with water and can be viewed from a deck which has a small gift shop/museum attached. 

 

Also in Butte you can visit the very nice mining museum.  For rockheads like me, especially hard-rock mining rockheads, the museum is a must-see.  Loads and loads of Butte history/miners union history, and general "Copper Baron" mining history there. 

 

Up towards Glacier is Choteau, where you may bump into David Letterman in town while at his ranch nearby.  The town of Augusta is nice and off the beaten path along US 287. 

 

You can cross the Divide west of Augusta on MT 200 and pass through Lincoln, MT, the last home of the Unabomber.  The road follows the Blackfoot River down to I-90 east of Missoula. The Blackfoot is the "A River Runs Through it" stream.

 

Browning, MT is close to East Glacier and is home to the Blackfeet Indians.  The Museum of the Plains Indian is in Browning, and like the Big Hole National Battlefield, is a sobering place to visit. The Blackfeet are, generally speaking, unfriendly towards visitors, and after spending some time at the Big Hole Battlefield and the Museum in Browning, one can imagine why.

 

Between Glacier and Missoula is St Ignatius, a mission complex.  I believe Mission Lake is on Reservation land off to the east side of US 93, but the only time I was there camping was in the late 1970s, a time frame sometimes tough to recall details about.  I do recall it was a beautiful, forested lake, the beers cold, and the locals friendly.

 

Missoula is easily my favorite town in Montana outside of Philipsburg.  Home to the University of Montana, it's a free-spriit libertarian city with the Clark Fork River running right through the center, separating the downtown from campus. Walking and cycling paths line the river, several footbridges cross it, and some really great restaurants, cafes, coffeshops, bookstores, and bars are all within a short walk of the motels on Broadway.  I particularly like The Oxford, a diner which has no locks on the doors because they never close.  They serve an eclectic mix of Americana and still use a pidgin-English style ordering system which is a scream to listen to.  Missoula also has a Costco and a huge big-box sporting goods store (Academy?), and an REI store.

 

A last reference to a route to travel is the Skalkaho Highway, MT 38, running E-W from Hamilton in the Bitterroot Valley to Philipsburg in the Flint Creek Valley.  From Hamilton east to the pass, it's mostly graded gravel and the uppermost 3-4 miles feature a no-guardrail drop-off down 800-1,000' to the valley below.  Throw some active logging truck activity in there and it's a real thrill to drive.  From the pass eastward, it's paved, and there's a nice NF campground and probably much in the way of disbursed camping in the same vicinity.  From the foot of the range east of the pass, the southernmost section of Rock Creek Road traverses some wide-open floodplain with some large ranches and a particularly hoity-toity resort before reaching MT 348 and the lower section of Rock Creek Rd at MP 41, 41 miles from I-90.

 

Foy


Edited by Foy, 23 July 2013 - 09:21 PM.

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#22 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 23 July 2013 - 10:01 PM

Foy I am not making this trip but you sure have put a lot of future info out.Some of what you have written about I have traveled through,not knowing any thing about those areas until now.

Thanks for the great info.

Frank


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#23 Foy

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 12:59 PM

Foy I am not making this trip but you sure have put a lot of future info out.Some of what you have written about I have traveled through,not knowing any thing about those areas until now.

Thanks for the great info.

Frank

Go for it, Frank. 

 

It seems that much of the tourist traffic in Montana travels I-90 between Yellowstone and Glacier, and to similar degree, US 287 from I-90 to East Glacier.  The swath of southwest MT west of YNP, south of I-90, and up against the ID border ridge is pretty well devoid of out-of-staters.  The whole of the Beaverhead-Deerlodge NF, all 3.2 million acres, is relatively free of out-of-staters.  You'll see some locals horse-packing where allowed, some locals fishing here and there, but for the most part, you've got the place to yourself. 

 

Oh, and speaking of US 287 and I-90, where they cross west of Bozeman is the community of Wheat, MT.  A superlative baked goods and coffeeshop is right on the interchange, and you can buy small quantities of specialty flours and baking supplies in their store. Yeah, you'll be sharing the place with some East Coasters wearing sandals with black socks, but the food and coffee is worth it.

 

Foy


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#24 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 08:28 PM

Once again thanks Foy.

I have noticed that the area you are talking about,Beaverhead-Deerlodge NF doesn't have many people around.

Frank


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#25 Foy

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 12:26 PM

Once again thanks Foy.

I have noticed that the area you are talking about,Beaverhead-Deerlodge NF doesn't have many people around.

Frank

That's for sure, Frank.  Neither Missoula nor Butte are high population cities, and the largest city in the state, Billings, is 250 miles from Dillon. Local Montana weekenders from any of the 3 cities would drive past other very nice places to ride, hike, and camp to reach the Big Hole and the Pioneers, so the areas hard by the ID border, which are another 60-80 miles from Dillon, are quite free of visitors, or at least, from hordes of visitors.

 

Foy


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#26 JHa6av8r

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 02:21 PM

We're leaving for a similar trip this Saturday.  Heading to Dinosaur National Monuent on the Utah side first.  Then up to Grand Teton and Yellowstone.  Making a brief stop in Bozeman to see the Musuem of the Rockies for more dinosaur stuff  for our 5 year old then up to Glacier.


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#27 rotti

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 03:35 PM

Personally, I'll never go to Glacier, YNP/Tetons again during the summer. The crowds were unreal. No parking available at just about every main attraction....circling to find a spot at Old Faithful. I knew this going in but still was surprised. Love those parks, but for me, only spring and fall when school is back in session and the hordes have departed.

 

The best parts of my three week trip through CO, WY, and MT were the out of the way places....many of which were mentioned in detail by Foy.

 

Some other secluded spots.

Big Horn mountains and Medicine Wheel in WY. Campground all to ourselves....never saw another soul.

nLcMPfG.jpg

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Ennis and Quake Lake MT.....one other camper in this campground along the Madison river.

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On a somber note, 28 campers still buried under this slide from a 7.5 earthquake in 1959.

Very interesting area and only an hour from the crowds in West Yellowstone.

 

The backroads are your friend.


Edited by rotti, 25 July 2013 - 03:41 PM.

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#28 sourdough

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 04:47 PM

Help, please: :)

I'd like suggestions from WTWers for places I should go/see/stay on a visit to the area, roughly, circled in the map below:

 

northern-rockies-01.jpg

(maybe the circle should be extended a bit further south into central Idaho -- imagine that I've drawn it so)

 

The mid-'90s was the last time (and to a large extent the only time) I've visited the area I'm considering visiting again, and that previous trip was a mostly-driving whirlwind road-trip tour (camping out of the back of my '92 Toyota pickup).

 

I'm mostly interested in input about areas not in the national parks.  I may not even visit them this trip, except perhaps cutting across the northern tier of Yellowstone after crossing Beartooth Pass (as I did on that '90s trip).

I found the area around Beartooth pass amazing, and I told myself that I'd be back to explore;  that was almost 20 years ago.  :rolleyes:

OK...and Glacier's Going to the Sun Highway was so world-class fantastic on that '90s trip that I could easily repeat that part, too.

 

But aside from the obvious (the national parks), what's cool to see?  Or if not especially cool, what's nice, pleasant to visit?

Limitations/Qualifications:  1) I'm not going to do any river trips.  2) I'm probably not going to do any backpacking...unless absolutely necessary.  That is, I'd rather do a 20-mile day hike to see something cool than two 10-mile backpack days.  But I couldn't rule it out.

 

I've found that I don't have an image/model/map in my head of this area and its features for planning purposes (as I do for most of Nevada and Utah and Arizona and southeast California) so I'm really starting from scratch, from newbie ignorance, for any non-national-park stuff :huh: ... Of course I have Benchmark Atlases for ID, MT, WY, and WA...but I know very little about what I'm looking at.

And so, I'd like suggestions for nice places to see and stay, nice routes to take to get there and around.

 

I'll be driving my F250 with FWC Hawk.

I'm considering doing this trip soon -- like, early/mid August and spend 2 weeks-ish out there.

 

Thanks. :)

 Montana's great ! Don't over look Eastern Washington, North Eastern Oregon and the Idaho panhandle.  Snake, Salmon and Clearwater River canyons area have a lot to explore. Pass on the Magrudor Road hipe, it's an internet thing. Follow any of the river roads, that's where the histroy is. But in general just explore, it's all good. Couple quick examples of my fav's, Riggins, Id. to McCall thru Burgdorf or Pierce, Id. to Superior, Mt. . See Imnaha, Or., Republic, Wa., Avery, Id., Yaak, Mt.  I lived in Spokane,Wa. for 24 years exploring by 4x4 and D/S motorcyle. Man I miss the PNW in summertime.


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#29 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 25 July 2013 - 06:15 PM

We're leaving for a similar trip this Saturday.  Heading to Dinosaur National Monuent on the Utah side first.  Then up to Grand Teton and Yellowstone.  Making a brief stop in Bozeman to see the Musuem of the Rockies for more dinosaur stuff  for our 5 year old then up to Glacier.

If you have been to Yellowstone/Teton,than disregard this info.

In Teton the Gros Ventre campground is nice,lots of room and you might see moose there.Also go to the Rockefeller center past the visitors center and take the short hike to Phelps Lake.It's a nice walk through a special part of the park.The views are great of the lake and there might be moose there.The other campgrounds at Teton are either tent only or by Jackson Lake.

Than the Flagg Ranch/Grassy Lake road at the north end of the park has some nice sites just a few miles out on the road. # 3 is one we checked out that was very nice.There are 14 sites first come first serve,free.

In Yellowstone,if you can get there early try  Slough Creek and Pebble Creek campgrounds.They are in the best animal viewing area of the park.What we usually do is camp at Madison or Indian Creek or Norris than get out of camp early about 6 am,and head to the Lamar Valley and try to get a site at Slough or Pebble.Also try to get over Dunraven Pass early in the morning,you might get to see some grizzles up there.

In Glacier try the lakes Bowman or Kinta on the west side.Usually not many people there.Also some nice walking trails.

Have a great trip.

Frank

Some pictures.

Phelps Lk  .Bowman Lk.  Grizzly bear on Dunraven Pass

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#30 JHa6av8r

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 01:21 PM

If you have been to Yellowstone/Teton,than disregard this info.

In Teton the Gros Ventre campground is nice,lots of room and you might see moose there.Also go to the Rockefeller center past the visitors center and take the short hike to Phelps Lake.It's a nice walk through a special part of the park.The views are great of the lake and there might be moose there.The other campgrounds at Teton are either tent only or by Jackson Lake.

Than the Flagg Ranch/Grass Lake road at the north end of the park has some nice sites just a few miles out on the road.

In Yellowstone,if you can get there early try  Slough Creek and Pebble Creek campgrounds.They are in the best animal viewing area of the park.What we usually do is camp at Madison or Indian Creek or Norris than get out of camp early about 6 am,and head to the Lamar Valley and try to get a site at Slough or Pebble.Also try to get over Dunraven Pass early in the morning,you might get to see some grizzles up there.

In Glacier try the lakes Bowman or Kinta on the west side.Usually not many people there.Also some nice walking trails.

Have a great trip.

Frank

Some pictures.

Phelps Lk  .Bowman Lk.  Grizzly bear on Dunraven Pass

Thanks for the information.  Gros Ventre is my planned stop after leaving Dinosaur National Monument at least for the first night.  Flagg Ranch/Grass Lake Rd also got my interest.  I thought Lizard campground would be nice.  I had noted to arrive early at both Slough and Pebble in my planning. We'll deal with the crowds but it should still be fun.  Thanks again.

 

John


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