Thanks, ski! We hadn't been for 10 years, and were reminded how much we love the place. We're planning another trip before winter, preferably on a new moon. There's a cool astronomy program by the visitor's center Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Several big telescopes are set up and a ranger gives a nice talk on archaeo-astronomy. The moon was about 2/3 last weekend, so the star gazing wasn't great until about 4 a.m.