1983 FWC Grandby - Complete Gut Job

slepe67

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
15
Hey Everyone, introduction & project post-in-one!
///WARNING: Way too much info below///

File this part under: How Bad Do You Want It”?

Last year, I finished a Coleman Pop Up trailer “restoration”. [link:] https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/1974-coleman-valley-forge-complete-gut-job.204401/

It came out pretty good, but is basically a shell. I didn’t completely finish it, as I had used it a few times and decided I wanted to tow my drift boat or dirt bikes WITH a camper. Yes, I could’ve put the bikes in the back of the truck, but the one thing the camper needed was a strong axle and more user-friendly tires and wheel bearings. Use the wife’s FJ to tow the boat???

I was on the verge of ordering what I needed and my oldest son informed he was in the market for a cheap camper. “Buddy, do I have a deal for YOU!” A deal was struck and off it went.

After scouring the internet for a cheap project, I found a (rough) Grandby in northeast Colorado. The price was right, and I contacted the seller.

https://imgur.com/MtBsCUj

https://imgur.com/lgmvMqg

https://imgur.com/OFDqSoS

Now that I found The One, I needed to get it home. The early Grandby’s don’t fit in newer trucks, and I knew my 2015 F250 was no exception. I need a trailer.

I couldn’t rent a U-Haul utility trailer, as they are “local use only”. Most other trailers I saw were very expensive and I couldn’t justify buying a trailer, just to go get a camper, then turn around and sell the trailer, likely for a loss. Plus, these trailers where for highway use only. Living in Montana, I need a trailer I can hook up and load dirtbikes, ATV, snowmobiles and head to the hills. While watching YouTube, I saw a high-end Overland Trailer. Then it hit me: find a military trailer. M1101, M116, etc. I found one about an hour west of where the camper was located.

The plan: get the trailer, then go get the camper & haul them home.
About 6 days after returning from deployment, I went 800+ miles with my son to get them. Yes. 800+ miles…
Before departing Montana, the CAMPER seller & I had a good discussion about how to go about loading the camper. He has access to a huge shop and forklift, so we both felt this would be a fairly easy task.
I figured things would not go as planned, so I grabbed as many tools and materials as I could think of, threw them in my F250 and hit the road. We didn’t press too hard. Stayed the night in a hotel in Sheridan, WY, then on to Ft Collins, CO for the trailer.

The Trailer.
It’s a 2008 M116A2 flatbed trailer.
The good: it is 8-feet long & in pretty good shape.
The bad: the space between the wheel wells is NOT 48-inches wide, so I need to put the camper on pallets. The tires were sketch, and the seller hesitated when I asked about the wheel bearings & tail lights. He had us follow him to where he worked, and he gave me a set of magnetic tail lights. Five minutes later, we were headed for Sterling, CO to pick up the camper.
Loading the camper.
After getting some sleep, we met the seller early the next morning and got to it. To the inventor of The Forklift: thank you! We quickly moved the camper over the trailer and slowly lowered it into place, just above the wheel wells. I thought about cutting the floor pack to have the camper sit flat on the trailer bed, then drill holes into the trailer so I could just bolt it down and go. But, the floor pack is in real good shape, so I opted to NOT cut it up. Instead, we’ll set it on pallets.

Realizing the CG is much higher and the trailer has some articulation, I was pretty hesitant. We screwed the pallets to each other, then laid 2x4s down flat and screwed them to the pallets. I put another 2x4 at the very front, and screwed it into place, as to alleviate any forward travel of the camper during hard braking.
From here, two 16” 2x4s were screwed to the floor pack, one on each side, sticking out about 2 inches in front of the camper. These were used to put a strap over and also help hold it from sliding forward.


After this, 2”x27’ straps went over the top, and several 1500lb ratchet straps were utilized to keep it from moving in any direction. Being a former SOF helicopter gunner, we were trained proficiently on how to tie down cargo, and our methods have resulted in Toyota Tacomas that remained tied down, even if the helicopter flipped over (long story). I wasn’t worried about my methods as much as I was worried about the straps lasting the duration of the trip.

The seller was a solid guy and I thanked him profusely & we pointed it north. But first, I was mentally struggling with the integrity of the 8+ year old tires. I decided to make a trip to the only tire shop in Sterling, CO open on a Sunday: WalMart.

How NOT to do it...
https://imgur.com/b6XXEJb

Walmart.
They didn’t have truck tires in stock, so I had them mount the only thing they had in my size: 10-ply trailer tires. We basically took off one wheel at a time & took it to the tire shop. While they mounted and balanced it, I was out in the parking lot packing the wheel bearings. As soon as I finished the driver’s side, they called and said the tire was ready. Put the wheel on, and repeated the process on the passenger side. The new tires dramatically helped out with the lateral swaying, so I felt a lot better about it.
Since the magnetic trailer lights didn’t fit on the top of the bed, they needed to be mounted underneath. Fortunately, the trailer has D-Rings right where I needed to mount the lights, so I secured the lights to the D-ring via ZipTies to prevent loss, and hit the road.

The Journey.
I was pretty nervous at first, but the trailer rode perfectly and the camper didn’t move at all. I made Sharpie lines in certain areas to determine if there was any movement. After analyzing the Sharpie lines at City Limits, I fueled up and hit the highway. (Note: When I got to MT, it didnt move AT ALL). We made it to Casper, WY (The C’Mon Inn hotel is pretty cool).

The previous day, it was 66 and sunny. The next morning, we woke up to snow, icy roads, and a northern head wind. Great.

https://imgur.com/g9XmtvU

I limited myself to 60 MPH, but as the head winds increased, I slowed down to 55 MPH. I’m sure the camper would’ve been fine and higher speeds, but I couldn’t stop imagining a Granby flying off the trailer at speed. Ever notice how it always seems like you only travel uphill into a headwind only when towing? LOL

Anyways, an 8-hour trip turned into about 11. Fuel stops, food, etc. We made it home and parked it.
Since the trailer has a rigid “tongue support”, I had to get a swivel-mount with wheel. After putting it on, I pushed the trailer into the garage. As a bonus, the trailer has a rear stand. I dropped the stand and actually leveled the trailer in the shop. It’s supported on both ends, so I can enter and exit the camper while on the trailer. Downside: I can’t pop-up the camper until I get it off the trailer.
I couldn’t find a loaner or rental set locally, so I went to eTrailer.com and bought some. I actually paid more for the jacks than the camper itself. I purchased four total. Oddly enough, the 1500 lb jacks were slightly more expensive than the 3,000 lb jacks, so I bought the bigger jacks: Brophy Cable Camper Jacks - 67" Max Lift Height - 3,000 lbs - Qty 2.

The camper.
I bought it from the son-in-law of the original owner. The owner used the camper in the Steamboat, CO area for elk hunting. All said, it appears to be fully intact, fairly “non-Bubba’d” and is in pretty decent shape, compared to many older (1980s) FWC’s I’ve seen online.

My intent. Use while restoring/modifying for my needs. I really like the Woolrich Package that FWC is making thee days, so I might just restore it along those lines. But cheaper. Much much cheaper.
I just restored a 1974 Coleman Pop Up camper.

That was an easy process, but took a while due to work, etc. My oldest son (25) expressed interest in the camper, so I’m giving it to him in exchange for a concrete patio. (He’s a concrete guy). Win win.

Now I must get to work...
 
Links to Follow (in no particular order):
1tonpaulie “how to build a dolly"
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/2821-how-to-build-a-dolly/

brett13 “Camper Dolly”
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/546-camper-dolly/

Colorado CJ “Keystone Rebuild - Narrow Floor Pack, Redo Interior, Paint Exterior” https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10322-keystone-rebuild-narrow-floor-pack-redo-interior-paint-exterior/

Paint Oak Veneer
https://www.hunker.com/12001774/how-to-paint-oak-veneer

PokyBros “Full build out - Reconstructing a 1981 Grandby into a custom Hawk!”
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12116-full-build-out-reconstructing-a-1981-grandby-into-a-custom-hawk/

SLO_F250 “SLO's 1990 Hawk Build/Refurb”
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/6364-slos-1990-hawk-buildrefurb/
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/slos-fwc-hawk-refurb-build.80314/

rich
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/3267-rear-lift-panel-fabrication-and-replacement/
Tim Morrisey aka “Living The Dream” in WTW: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCE_a776UFGmpV0MS2MroFRA

Ski3pin (aka O.G. EMT Lift Mechanism info)
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/10761-this-old-granby-build/page-7

Bill Harr’s build for inspiration down the road
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/8089-bills-fwc-hawk-build/

When all else fails:

Questions that I have going in, and that I plan to answer for future readers:
  • How does fabric attach to camper? (Not the roof)
  • How is the ThermoPack attached to the canvas?
  • How to get the Floor Pack to fit a modern F250
  • What thickness of material is used for the floor pack?
  • How is Floor Pack secured to the aluminum frame?
  • How is the Floor Pack actually held together?
Material List:
  • Headliner: https://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/marine-headliner-white-hdl-1004.html
    PorkyBro:
  • I just bought enough material to make sure I had enough lengthwise X 2, with a little extra to boot. You only need about 1 1/2" extra to go over the side, and to tuck inside under the aluminum sheeting on top, but it's also a good idea to have enough to be able to pull and stretch to get the wrinkles out. I had quite a bit extra material left over, I think they just threw in what was left on the roll, but only charged me for what I ordered…
  • With hindsight, I would say the most accurate measurement for the liner is taken from the circumference of the camper body, not the lid

[*]Replacement Water Tanks:
 
After the jacks arrived and catching up on the Honey-Do List, it was time to take the camper off the trailer and get to work.

Lowering a camper via four Borphy Jacks is a tedious, almost nerve-racking process, but it worked.

First impressions.
Several areas where P. O. did some work and it wasnt TOO bad....but I think this is going to be a full resto...

The entry door is toast. I think I can rebuild it, but the outer trim is TOAST.

After getting inside, I was able to get the top popped, and much to my suspicion, the lift panels were junk. The roof is very wavey, but the ceiling panel looks OK.

MSbxZwl.jpg

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EcFxHvE.jpg


I had to go and do it...
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Perhaps I'll rebuild much like this, but with better storage options.
Dometic 211 Ice Box didnt work, so out it came.
Ab68w50.jpg


Far Left: Exterior propane tank storage
Left of that: water tank (sink directly above, stove to the right of it)
Due to grizzlys, I dont care to cook or prepare food inside the camper. I'll have the ability to do so, should the need arise, but indoors definitely wont be my primary option.
I have a diesel heater to repalce the Dometic Propane unit.
5ykLvKc.jpg


You can see the old school fold-down bed legs. Not sure how to replace this just yet.
Do the wood strips directly below the canvas serve an actual purpose? They were cut I installed very crudely.
H6YQ7pm.jpg


Passenger Side to follow shortly.
Wont be able to take out or replace the Lift Panels just yet.
 
To the reader who wonders "why do all these builds take so long?" LOL, Here's why!

I found out the hard way that my deck stairs were constructed from OSB, so I had to rebuild them. Two days gone.

gSkyCDF.jpg

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Rebuild carb and fix flat on John Deere riding mower, rebuild mower carbs, change oil, sharpen blades, new plugs, fresh fuel. Mow lawn. Another day gone.
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Then, I realized I'd left my boat oars outdoors all winter. (I was deployed)...might as well restore them while I'm at it. They're still drying, so no pics yet.
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Honey Do List in full swing: rebuild toilet, refinish basement bathroom, etc.

UPS/FedEx dropped off a LOT of parts for the rebuild. I was thinking about delays in shipping, as well as price spikes, so I ordered a lot of things I dont necessarily need right NOW, but will need sooner than later.

Next Phase:
remove floor pack and rebuild to fit modern trucks.
 
Wow, thanks for the photos. It interesting and helpful to see the layout of the galley. I have a FWC made around the turn of the century and the components and spaces are very similar with the exception that mine's a different configuration. It's great to see that you and others are restoring these oldies. I believe the FWC's were made in Colorado until moving to Calif in the 90's because of a change of owner. The design, materials and components seems like they didn't really change much until the past 10-15 years.
 
Vic Harder said:
Wow, way to go! Love these total rebuilds.
Thank you, sir! Your build (one of a few great examples in here) and a LOT of reading your technical info got me to where I am aiming to go from here.

I'm about to start rebuilding the entire floor pack, then will focus on re-welding what needs to be, then insulating, and building out to a modern looking shell. I honestly thought I'd be camping in a shell Memorial Day weekend, but things got a way from me for a bit. Such is Life!

After I spend a couple weekends in it, I'll know what I need from it and will be able to hammer down on the "final" product.

Then, I'll start pestering you about electrical needs!


Wildcat said:
Wow, thanks for the photos. It interesting and helpful to see the layout of the galley. I have a FWC made around the turn of the century and the components and spaces are very similar with the exception that mine's a different configuration. It's great to see that you and others are restoring these oldies. I believe the FWC's were made in Colorado until moving to Calif in the 90's because of a change of owner. The design, materials and components seems like they didn't really change much until the past 10-15 years.
Thanks!

The intent of MY post here is to help out the next guy. There is SO much great info in this forum, I'm trying to capture questions I had, even after scouring the forum.

Things I plan to capture for the next FWC Restorer:
  1. What thickness plywood is the floor pack made of? What specific fasteners did the factory use? Has it evolved? How exactly does the floor pack get attached to the camper? How exactly does the floor pack get held together?
  2. How exactly does the "canvas" attach? How exactly does the Arctic Pack attach?Can I find exterior siding locally? How is it attached?
  3. How exactly does the Arctic Pack attach?
  4. Basic to Sophisticated electrical system.
  5. Basic to Sophisticated Water systems.
  6. Specifically what modern/replacement trim goes where?
I think you're right, they didn't change "too" much, but there are definitely things like the aluminum frame and outer skins that have highly evolved over the years. While mine wont hold a match to a new FWC, I think it'll definitely be better than it was when new back in 1983.

I think my Minds Eye views this camper as "Vintage" on the outside, and "Woolrich" on the inside.

The Woolrich:

CUvylQx.jpg


The weather here in Montana was 84F today. Expecting snow in a few days! LOL I better get on it!
 
"Re-finished" my drift boat oars. I think I can get one more season out of the blades, then I'll have to send them off to Sawyer.

Took an hour or so to sand them down per Sawyer's recommendations,

Man, I do love the internet sometimes!


Before:
GchiKzE.jpg


After:
uGMYSKp.jpg
 
Please, no wisecracks about the runs or lack of sanding. They're OARS. LOL :) :) :)
 
The Entrance Door...

The door skin and window is in restorable condition.

The trim on the door and the casing is toast.

Marty from ATC stated in an older post to go to EMMETT DOOR INC. 208-398-8900
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/16203-upgrade-door-replacement/?hl=%2Breplacement+%2Bdoor

I'll measure the opening and give them a call. Will post-up what shakes out.

The front "Cab" Window...

I bought the camper with a wooden framed plexiglass window. It fell apart when I removed it.
A guy on FaceBook's "FWC Four Wheel & Truck Campers (projects)" group said he has one. I'm hoping he does...

Edit (15 FEB 2022): I will likely use one of the square side windows, or delete this window entirely.



From here, my biggest debate: To make it a Hawk (shorten it 14+/- inches), or load the Grandby and drive with the tailgate down. This means No Trailers...(i.e. drift boat).

I think I just closed out my own debate...
 
good luck!

I have had luck rebuilding a door, its not that complex.. finding a new one is challenging..
 
The front "Cab" Window...

I bought the camper with a wooden framed plexiglass window. It fell apart when I removed it.
A guy on FaceBook's "FWC Four Wheel & Truck Campers (projects)" group said he has one. I'm hoping he does...

From here, my biggest debate: To make it a Hawk (shorten it 14+/- inches), or load the Grandby and drive with the tailgate down. This means No Trailers...(i.e. drift boat).

--
I have a window... in Canada though, so shipping cost would be high.

Shorten or not... since you are starting from a bare frame, have you thought of turning it into a flatbed? Door on the side, angled back so you don't need the tailgate? The "extra" length could be used at the front like I did to give you a bigger bed area without needing a bed slider
 
Vic Harder said:
The front "Cab" Window...

I bought the camper with a wooden framed plexiglass window. It fell apart when I removed it.
A guy on FaceBook's "FWC Four Wheel & Truck Campers (projects)" group said he has one. I'm hoping he does...

From here, my biggest debate: To make it a Hawk (shorten it 14+/- inches), or load the Grandby and drive with the tailgate down. This means No Trailers...(i.e. drift boat).

--
I have a window... in Canada though, so shipping cost would be high.

Shorten or not... since you are starting from a bare frame, have you thought of turning it into a flatbed? Door on the side, angled back so you don't need the tailgate? The "extra" length could be used at the front like I did to give you a bigger bed area without needing a bed slider
Thanks for the offer-up on the window. Calgary to Great Falls, Montana. How bad could that be? LOL I'll keep searching, but will keep you in mind if all else fails.

A flatbed build is something I want to do in the future, but I see a lot of wasted opportunity for storage on those campers, to include the side-entry door. Thankfully, these campers are heavily customizable. I think I'm currently on Version 1 of this camper.

My future plans are to put an aluminum 8-ft flatbed on my F250, then slide the camper on it as-is. On the bed-side area, I'll install long truck boxes along the sides for tons of storage. This is a great place for things like chain saws, tools, fuel, etc.

Jon Burtt's Gramp Camp F250. It's wild, but also VERY well thought out.
bbcx7YD.jpg


INTERIOR (Not too wild inside)

EXTERIOR (Worth a watch)

To sideline the build further, I have a deck that wasn't built to code, and with lumber prices the way they are, I'm hemorrhaging money right now (Example: $60 for a 14ft 2x12). The housing market in Montana is insane, and it's nearly impossible to find a qualified builder right now. So, I'll do it myself! It kinda hurt to come to the realization this week that I wont be able to make our annual Memorial Day Camping Expedition, but we all talked it over and agreed that we'll be able to camp as much as possible after the camper is built and spends most of its life on my truck.

Perhaps things will get back to "normal" fairly soon. Until then, I'll keep chugging along and hopefully get this camper outside soon~!
 
The Door itself isnt "bad". I was planning on opening it up and rebuilding/re-insulating/repainting.

The trim, however, is roached.

I'll start measuring and looking online for these pieces. TIG welding is another strong option.
pXaJU0b.jpg

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BBZ said:
good luck!

I have had luck rebuilding a door, its not that complex.. finding a new one is challenging..
Any data on the trim itself? It looks fairly straightforward, assuming I can get it back together and on the camper in a working manner. hahaha
 
slepe67 said:
Any data on the trim itself? It looks fairly straightforward, assuming I can get it back together and on the camper in a working manner. hahaha
I had to reuse everything.. used L brackets in the corners where the cracks were.. all in all it turned out to be a solid door..
 
Good luck on your rebuild! I just started down this path myself with an 85/86 Grandby. This has become an obsession. I have used the camper the last 7 years and had previously done some minor remodeling based on how I use the camper. After 7 years, I know what I like and what I would use so now I am all in and the camper is stripped all the way down to the aluminum frames.
 
Looks great! glad you found my videos. i have a build on here too for some of the earlier stuff. Looks like you are going to have a lot of fund with it. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions
 
Abbiennormal said:
Good luck on your rebuild! I just started down this path myself with an 85/86 Grandby. This has become an obsession. I have used the camper the last 7 years and had previously done some minor remodeling based on how I use the camper. After 7 years, I know what I like and what I would use so now I am all in and the camper is stripped all the way down to the aluminum frames.
Sorry for the late reply!

Havent been on here in a bit. Thanks for the encouragement. This build came to a rapid halt after I got started rebuilding my deck, pouring patio, etc.


Living The Dream said:
Looks great! glad you found my videos. i have a build on here too for some of the earlier stuff. Looks like you are going to have a lot of fund with it. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions
Yes, I've watched the build videos more than a few times! VERY helpful, and thanks for creating them! Some things are hard to capture in writing, your videos helped close the loop on multiple fronts!




As far as the build goes, It looks like I'll be tent camping again this summer! :D My oldest son took possession of the 1974 Coleman Pop Up trailer I restored. (Third generation owner for that little thing!)

I'm definitely going to turn my FWC into a Grandby/Hawk (a Grawk?) variant. When the camper is loaded & I tow my drift boat or dirt bike trailer, I cant have anything sticking past my rear bumper. The truck has a 7ft bed, so I'll be in good shape.

I think cutting the front wall off clean, then taking out 16 or 17 inches, then welding the wall back in place should do the trick.

After that, I can begin assembly.

Anyways, that's all I got for now. More to follow!
 
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