4 wheel camper roof repair

[truck-v]

Hello all! I have used this site as a resource for information many times but this is my first post. I have had water intrusion last summer. Though it was hard to say, I guessed that it was from around the vent. When I just removed the vent, it looks like there are tears in the aluminum roof in multiple locations near the vent opening. The previous owner had obviously patched them with some type of caulking/filler and covered over the whole thing with self leveling, which had held up for a couple years at least. Looking for suggestions for repair from the more knowledgeable here.
I was wondering if I could cut out a square for the vent hole from a larger square of aluminum patch and pop rivet that over this? Try plugging it up with something again? Need to replace roof? Any better ideas welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Welcome to the site.What year/model is your camper? Even though you have a FWC ,try contacting Marty at ATC for some info about your vent area repair? They are very helpful.
Frank

 

[truck-v]

I believe that it is a 2003 Hawk. I am in Wisconsin, so it would be quite the drive to California for repair.

 

[pods8]

I mean if you want it done well replacing the roof would be the best. But if you wanted to patch it you could. New aluminum with good sealant between and then riveted down and lap sealant along the edges would likely out last the rest of the aged roof.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I believe that it is a 2003 Hawk. I am in Wisconsin, so it would be quite the drive to California for repair.

Yeah that's a long way for a repair.But you could call Marty and get his advise.
pods8 has a good idea.A partial repair would work as long as you sealed it good.
Good luck in your search.
Frank

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Hi T-V, welcome to WTW.

I believe your repair is doable by you. Clean up all the goop the previous owner applied, them use butyl tape to reseal the vent/fan base. A layer or two of Eterna Bond tape should be effective on the cracks. Have a clean surface for the tape.

Follow that with self leveling Dicor sealant over the Eterna Bond and around the fan. For the cracks right at the edge of the fan, apply the tape prior to the butyl going down. Maybe sealant over the screw heads, too.

If you decide to replace the roof, Marty at ATC is the person to talk to, especially if your hinged panels are starting to go.

Keep us posted on your repairs! A photo documentation would be great to help the next person with a similar issue.

Good luck!

Edit: consider a vacation combined with a repair if you go that route. My guess is ATC could have it done quickly.

 

[pods8]

I believe your repair is doable by you. Clean up all the goop the previous owner applied, them use butyl tape to reseal the vent/fan base. A layer or two of Eterna Bond tape should be effective on the cracks. Have a clean surface for the tape.

My main concern was there was a series of cracks and worry those would just continue to propagate over time and be completely reliant on the tape/sealant to hold things together. That's why I'd consider some more aluminum.

But you could cut pieces and glue them with an appropriate sika adhesive on the underside of the roof aluminum to reinforce things. And pair that with the above.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Stop drilling the cracks should mitigate the potential for the cracks to spread. Thanks @pods8 for catching that!

 

[pvstoy]

Yea drilling holes where the crack stops helps prevent them from advancing.

Note on the roof. The roof is textured and has raised ribs. If you was using flat sheet of material, then you would need way too much sealer under to fill the voids.

I like Sage notes above on using tape over the areas of tears and rips. Even small metal on flat sections that are glued down to patch. Use Sage's suggestions above.

Patch and seal all holes and tears outside the foot print of the vent. Install vent with butyl tape and seal up vent, screw heads as normal install. Extend the Dicor out to cover the patches. Might need to use a whole tube by the time you are done.

But the MOST important thing is, YOU HAVE TO CLEAN the area of ALL contaminates. Any oil or residue that is left you will not obtain a bond that will last. With expansion and contraction along with vibration, you are just going to have a bonding failure leading to leaks.

It takes more time to clean the surface than removing and adding the vent. This is where most people cut it short being impatient, just wanting to finish (including myself). Spend the extra time now, why do the same job twice.

 

[AWG_Pics]

Being an old tinner by trade back in the pre-college days, I would likely grab the old tin snips and remove all of the stressed, gooped up metal. Pre-cut a vent hole and pre-drill many pilot holes for screws in an oversize square of slightly thicker aluminum. Lay down a good thick bead of your preferred waterproof caulk onto your very clean camper roof, with the caulk bead sized to be slightly inboard of the very clean edge of the aluminum patch, under the screw pilot holes. Install the camper vent onto the square. Then slap the whole assembly down on the hole in the camper roof. Screw the square down to the camper top. Caulk all the screw tops well. Let it all cure for two or three weeks, really. Then paint it all with a good marine paint. After a day or two, give it another layer of the marine paint.

You may have to reframe to give the large aluminum patch a good mount.

 

[craig333]

I'd get a new fan. Use some wide butyl tape then the self leveling sealant. Butyl tape is easy to source on Amazon.

 

[craig333]

odd my reply didn't post. Anyway all good advice. Not sure you need to drill the cracks but it certainly won't hurt.

 

[pvstoy]

If could get a sheet of the same ribed roof material, I would oversize it around the vent and cut out the vent hole and seal it, screw it down and install the vent. Pretty easy and quick.

But having a flat sheet without the rib pattern takes more sealing or flatting the ribs down.