Alaska dilemma (ferry, drive, combo, camping, etc.)

[softwaremom00]

Another way to approach this trip is to make the driving part of the adventure. Perhaps plan on breaking the driving up more and stopping at beautiful places along the way. I feel like we are often in too much of a rush to get somewhere and we forget to enjoy the journey.

My other suggestion is a much harder one to accomplish, find a driving/riding partner. Someone to help with driving and come along on the adventure. Of course this might bring with it a whole bunch of other problems.
Please share your journey with us. In a couple of years, when my kids are grown I may be facing these solo travelling issues as well, I would love to hear how others overcome them.

Good luck and have a great time!

 

[kmcintyre]

Another way to approach this trip is to make the driving part of the adventure. Perhaps plan on breaking the driving up more and stopping at beautiful places along the way. I feel like we are often in too much of a rush to get somewhere and we forget to enjoy the journey.

My other suggestion is a much harder one to accomplish, find a driving/riding partner. Someone to help with driving and come along on the adventure. Of course this might bring with it a whole bunch of other problems.
Please share your journey with us. In a couple of years, when my kids are grown I may be facing these solo travelling issues as well, I would love to hear how others overcome them.

Good luck and have a great time!

All great suggestions. As you stated, finding someone who is camping compatible is probably not in the cards but you never know. That's why I try to drive less time these days and if I find something I like, stay longer. The main goal is to get to AK.

I'm planning on doing a "trip report" if I can pull it off. Waiting to see when the ferry schedule opens up again (no bookings while they retrofit the ferries; apparently).

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Ketchikan Is a ZOO when the cruise ships are in.On our 1990 trip only 1or 2 were in port at a time.
They were starting to build the new cruise ship docking pier.After that it seemed to be a
free for all.Ketchikan is a small town and there's not much driving to do.
Most of the boat people have some off ship things to do that spread them out.
The campground at Ward lake SP doesn't get very busy so it can be nice and quiet.
All the small towns along the inside passage get swamped with boat people,but if
you catch a town on an off boat day they are very nice.
Frank

 

[kmcintyre]

Ketchikan Is a ZOO when the cruise ships are in.On our 1990 trip only 1or 2 were in port at a time.
They were starting to build the new cruise ship docking pier.After that it seemed to be a
free for all.Ketchikan is a small town and there's not much driving to do.
Most of the boat people have some off ship things to do that spread them out.
The campground at Ward lake SP doesn't get very busy so it can be nice and quiet.
All the small towns along the inside passage get swamped with boat people,but if
you catch a town on an off boat day they are very nice.
Frank

I normally avoid any "deep water ports" for this reason; cruise ships can take over a town and basically ruin it (for me) with the sudden surge of people filling up every nook and cranny, stores, restaurants, streets, etc. I'll have to check on towns where maybe the big ships don't dock.

 

[Machinebuilder]

one more thing to consider that ended up being a bigger pain than i ever expected.

campground reservations.
Because of the way I travel, I never know where or when I am going to stop for the night. this was a issue several times. The worst was the stretch from Jasper to Banff. because I was after labor day many campgrounds where closed, some of the others were completely reserved (with a number of empty sites). another issue is many campgrounds are now reserve and pay online only, and they dont have cell service or attendants. This was mostly in Canada (Alberta, Ontario) and some Western states and National Parks.

This was the "overflow" lot at Mosquito Lake Campground 9-17-2023

In Alaska and most of the Yukon it is easy to find wild campsites most places. TIP look for the old gravel pits. They made awesome camp spots and the dogs could get some good runs in.



IMHO it is worth driving IF you have the time to not rush.

 

[Machinebuilder]

I normally avoid any "deep water ports" for this reason; cruise ships can take over a town and basically ruin it (for me) with the sudden surge of people filling up every nook and cranny, stores, restaurants, streets, etc. I'll have to check on towns where maybe the big ships don't dock.

You would hate Skagway, there were 4 big cruise ships in when I was there, figure 20000-25000 extra people in a town of 2000. The good thing is you can go to Dyea Flats and there aren't many people there.
The ferry to Haines is only a 1 hour ride, I think it took longer to load than the trip took.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I normally avoid any "deep water ports" for this reason; cruise ships can take over a town and basically ruin it (for me) with the sudden surge of people filling up every nook and cranny, stores, restaurants, streets, etc. I'll have to check on towns where maybe the big ships don't dock.

Good luck with that.Although there are some that the cruise ships can't get into.
Since the ferry uses the inside passage there are a couple ports where no cruise boats go.
After Ketchian the cruise ships have to go "outside to get to Juneau/Sitka.
Frank

 

[dennis 221]

Iol.. Skagway, we where there last year. 4 cruise ships in Port, an there was a line of at least 50 people waiting to buy a ice cream cone

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Skagway has changed so much since our first trip there in1992.
Most of the shops were still family owned.Now the cruise lines have bought up any store that goes up for sale.We used to go to one restaurant that served sourdough pancaked but on
returning trips that restaurant has completely changed it's menu.Bummer.
Gone are the days of visiting a nice small Alaskan town.Oh well I guess that's what they call progress.
It's still a nice place on non cruise ship days.The small towns are trying to get some regulations
on the number ships and days for their visits.
Frank

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I normally avoid any "deep water ports" for this reason; cruise ships can take over a town and basically ruin it (for me) with the sudden surge of people filling up every nook and cranny, stores, restaurants, streets, etc. I'll have to check on towns where maybe the big ships don't dock.

Another alternative is the BC ferry from Port Hardy on Vancouver island.
They run an every other day route to Prince Rupert where you can drive north via the Cassiar Hwy. The AMH used to have a connecting ferry from there north but don't know if that still is running.
We have used the BC ferry several times headed to Alaska.It's a nice trip to Prince Rupert.
Mostly a daylight run about 11 hours but the scenery is beautiful and most of the way is free of cruise ships as BC ferry travels the inside passage and the large cruise ships can't go all the way through it.
Frank

 

[kmcintyre]

Another alternative is the BC ferry from Port Hardy on Vancouver island.
They run an every other day route to Prince Rupert where you can drive north via the Cassiar Hwy. The AMH used to have a connecting ferry from there north but don't know if that still is running.
We have used the BC ferry several times headed to Alaska.It's a nice trip to Prince Rupert.
Mostly a daylight run about 11 hours but the scenery is beautiful and most of the way is free of cruise ships as BC ferry travels the inside passage and the large cruise ships can't go all the way through it.
Frank

I checked into that... they are full already!

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

They do fill up fast.
Frank

 

[dennis 221]

Took the ferry over to the island last year. Did all victoria island was very nice .19hr trip from port Rep . To port hardy

 

[penner]

We did the Alaska trip in 2023 . Our trip lasted 8 weeks and totalled 13,500 miles ,but that included the drive up the Dempster. We did have some long driving days, especially across the Prairies. We were on a bit of a schedule at first since we were meeting our Daughter and SIL at the Anchorage airport. After they picked up their rental van we spent the next 2 weeks touring the Kenai Peninsula . Once they flew home we continued up to the Top of the World Hwy, Dawson , up to Tuk and then started to make our way back home. Of the 8 weeks we were gone I think we stayed in campgrounds about 10 times. Should also mention we went up the Stewart/Cassier and home the Alaska Hwy. I also did all the driving, well not really. My Wife did pull the truck off the levelling blocks so she probably did 10-15 ft. LOL!! One more thing, we did Skagway on the way up and thought it was great but there were no ships in.

 

[penner]

Correction, it was 2022.

 

[Occidental]

If you do end up driving back through BC I highly recommend the BC recreation sites for camping. We stayed in a lot of them last summer, all free and only two of them filled while we were there. They are in some great spots, minimally developed, and you don't have to reserve.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

That was a great video.In all our travels through BC we have stayed at several of their sites.
Really enjoyed them. Most were just stumbled upon.
Thanks.
Frank

 

[kmcintyre]

Everyone! Thank you so much for all the info and keep it coming. I suspect I'm going to book the ferry in the next few days; will go Haines to Bellingham and drive up. I really want to go Halibut fishing but not sure how (or if it even makes sense) to bring fish home. If I drive, I doubt I can keep it frozen for 10 days or so and cost to ship is more than what the fish is really worth.

 

[Sagebrush Reconnoiterer]

A friend visits his son in Fairbanks annually and brings home salmon. I don't know the logistics, such as packaging, maximum weight/fish allowed, etcetera. I just know that it's delicious after he prepares it with a special brine and slow cooks it on the barbecue over apple wood!

 

[Machinebuilder]

Book you Halibut charter now. I found out that they fill up months in advance.
Pay attention to the tide charts, Here is an example for Anchor point.
THe last column shows the predicted fishing conditions
Anchor point tide Chart

I was lucky and found a cancellation at J&J charters out of Ninilchick, I would go with them again.
It happened to be Salmon fest weekend which would be a good thing to avoid, and it was Full moon (highest Tides) which meant the worst fishing. all of us caught our limit (2 fish) but they were only in the 15lb range.
I got about 11lbs of fillets.

I use my Engel mr050 as a freezer so that amount was not a problem for me. I had plans to ship to a friends house if needed.

I met some people that were shipping 100's of lbs of salmon home.