Alternative fitting of an Eezi-Awn Bat 270 concerning roof hold down clasps

[Bradders]

So I have just fitted an Eezi-Awn Bat 270 to my Wildcat Four Wheel Camper (equivalent is a fleet I believe). Because of the length of the awning, I would have to move the roof hold down clasp on that side of the camper (the left in my case as I’m in the UK). This would entail sealing up the old holes and drilling new ones in the side to accomodate the new location.

However, an alternative to this could be to reduce the length of the clasp lever. The very top part could be cut off and then a piece removed which was enough to clear the back of the awning. The top could then be welded (tig, mig or stick) back on.

Obviously, the hook part of the clasp would have to remain the same length and so when open, would rest against the back of the awning, but I can’t see that being an issue.

So it would not look as pretty when closed, but it would be hidden by the awning when the roof is down anyway. Also, there would not be so much leverage for opening and closing the clasp, however if one tries to open and close a full size clasp by holding it at the half way point, it seems to be quite achievable.

So I was wondering what the consensus of opinion is… good idea and get it done, or bad idea and don't be such an idiot.

Here is a photo which sort of shows what I’m trying to say (apologies for the quality).

 

[Fresh]

I recently moved the clasp on my camper because of an awning install. I closed up the holes by using pop rivets. Has been working just fine for me.

 

[Bradders]

I recently moved the clasp on my camper because of an awning install. I closed up the holes by using pop rivets. Has been working just fine for me.

That’s a great idea Fresh; I didn’t think of pop rivets. If I do move the clasp I think I will do the same.

I suppose I’m really just trying to avoid drilling more holes in the aluminium skin to be honest. Leaving the clasp where it is would also retain its positional effectiveness, and if it really doesn’t work, I'll move the clasp and fit a new one anyway.

 

[Vic Harder]

Get a spare clasp from ATC or FWC before you muck with your existing one. Other than that bit of advice, I admit that I like your idea.

 

[Bradders]

Get a spare clasp from ATC or FWC before you muck with your existing one. Other than that bit of advice, I admit that I like your idea.

Thanks Vic, wise words I think

 

[superduty]

I moved my clamp for an awning install on my Grandby. You can fill the old holes with sealant or simply put a screw in the holes. Get screws similar to what you removed. Very easy job with multiple reliable solutions.

 

[superduty]

That’s a great idea Fresh; I didn’t think of pop rivets. If I do move the clasp I think I will do the same.

I suppose I’m really just trying to avoid drilling more holes in the aluminium skin to be honest. Leaving the clasp where it is would also retain its positional effectiveness, and if it really doesn’t work, I'll move the clasp and fit a new one anyway.

I would try and not to overthink it. So many people fear drilling holes. Just drill it and properly seal it and all will be just fine. Leaving the old one in place is not a bad idea, if you don't mind spending money on an additional clamp.

 

[Bradders]

I would try and not to overthink it. So many people fear drilling holes. Just drill it and properly seal it and all will be just fine. Leaving the old one in place is not a bad idea, if you don't mind spending money on an additional clamp.

Thanks Superduty, the cost of the extra clasp is a consideration to be honest and it would have to come from Germany as that is my nearest stockest, and by the way, where I got the camper from originally.
The delivery charges would probably cost more that the part itself (either from Germany or the States), but if I didn’t use it (should my plan not work), I would have a spare to use, as some of my clamps look a bit rusty in places.

 

[Bradders]

So I decided to shorten the clasp in the end and it seems to work pretty well. I TIG welded it as it was thin material and a bit fiddly.
Here are some photos of it being made and in situ.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Nice job!

 

[Vic Harder]

Does it still feel like it “locks” in place? I thought the inside of the lip that the flip up part has (the part you shortened) had a friction fit with the clasp end?

 

[Bradders]

Does it still feel like it “locks” in place? I thought the inside of the lip that the flip up part has (the part you shortened) had a friction fit with the clasp end?

So at the bottom of the latch lever, (that I shortened) there is a small depression which fits around a rivet that sticks out from the side of the body of the latch. This is what gives it the positive locking feel when it is closed. However, because it has now been shortened, the latch lever protrudes out a tiny amount more than it did before. So yes, it does still, “lock” into place, but I will need to take a small amount off the lip at the top of the latch, which will allow the rivet to fully engage with the small depression in the latch lever and give a slightly more positive feel to the latch when it is closed.
I am really pleased with the result and definitely recommend it.