Another rookie question, the photo above is of a 12/24-5 isolated. So I understand that I can just go with a non isolated and not have to bond the grounds. But in a FWC, nothing is 24V. Why wouldnt they put in a 12/12 dc2dc instead?
I measured the voltage at the exterior Starlink Mini port and it is 29.45V. I’ll defer to the experts, but I suspect the voltage needs to be raised up to account for voltage drop caused by the long Starlink Mini cable.
That's just for the Starlink, I believe. My Starlink Actuated runs on 48v.Another rookie question, the photo above is of a 12/24-5 isolated. So I understand that I can just go with a non isolated and not have to bond the grounds. But in a FWC, nothing is 24V. Why wouldnt they put in a 12/12 dc2dc instead?
That's just for the Starlink, I believe. My Starlink Actuated runs on 48v.
Just to reiterate what superduty is saying... I run my Starlink Mini directly to my LiFePO4 12V battery without a step-up converter. The wall outlet adapter provides a 30V source, but the Mini will run fine off 12V. As superduty already mentioned, it is important you make your own, or buy a larger gauge wire to ensure there is minimal voltage drop.
I didn't want to hardmount mine, I use a mag mount from Trio on the cab and just plug it in when I need it, then store it inside when I'm not. Mini Speedmount