Cheap, easy fix for a difficult, expensive problem

[riz]

I've had three different 80's Fleet campers and every one of them had rotten lift panels. After spending long hours, frustration, and a lot of swearing, I've decided that replacing the panels myself is a royal pain, and having it done is way too expensive. Here's my solution: Two 1/2" galvanized floor flanges (about $12). Two 1"x1/2" reducing pvc elbows (a couple bucks). Two 1"pvc caps (less than $2). A stick of 1" pvc pipe ($5?), and a piece of 1/4" plywood 6"x6' (found it laying in the scrap pile). Take out all the old panels and hinges. Screw the plywood to the top of the camper across the front. Screw the floor flanges to the front corners of the camper frame. You can back them up with some wood to have something to screw the bottom screws into. Thread the elbows into the flanges. If you can't find an elbow with male threads, you'll need a short galvanized nipple to link the elboew to the flange. Put a stick of pipe about 24" (your length may vary) long into the elbow (no glue needed). Put a cap on the other end of the pipe. Use the threaded elbow as a hinge to lift the pipe vertical so the cap rests on the plywood on the ceiling. With a pipe vertical in each corner, the roof is supported. You can drill a small (about 1/2" diameter) hole in the plywood at the appropriate location to keep the cap from sliding around. The process takes about an hour, and costs about $20, opposed to a weekend (or more) of swearing and misery trying to fabricate new panels using rotten garbage as your pattern. Here are a few pictures of the latest project:

This shows the lift arm in the down position (front left corner)

This shows the plywood attached to the ceiling with a hole for the top of the lift arm to slide into.


This shows the lift arm in the up position.

closeup of the top.

closeup of the bottom.

 

[cwdtmmrs]

riz, clever, but I wouldn't trust the shear strength of a 1/2" PVC nipple to hold the weight of the roof over me.

CWD

 

[alano]

riz, clever, but I wouldn't trust the shear strength of a 1/2" PVC nipple to hold the weight of the roof over me.

CWD

I tend to agree but simply replacing the entire PVC structure with1/2" galvanized pipe and fittings would still be pretty cheap and super strong.

Alan

 

[ntsqd]

I'd call the capture of the end-cap by a hole or divot in the plywood piece an absolute must. PVC is reasonably strong and probably can hold the load so long as there aren't a bunch of trinkets on the roof. Consider what it replaced in terms of the strength requirement.

Until it gets cold and then PVC is not a great option. I'd have a look at using CPVC instead. Not too familiar with it's cold condition properties, but it is worth investigating.

IMO galvanized would be exceedingly ugly, though it would be strong enough.

I think that I'd take a long look at using a section of wooden closet hanger dowel.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I'd call the capture of the end-cap by a hole or divot in the plywood piece an absolute must. PVC is reasonably strong and probably can hold the load so long as there aren't a bunch of trinkets on the roof. Consider what it replaced in terms of the strength requirement.

Until it gets cold and then PVC is not a great option. I'd have a look at using CPVC instead. Not too familiar with it's cold condition properties, but it is worth investigating.

IMO galvanized would be exceedingly ugly, though it would be strong enough.

I think that I'd take a long look at using a section of wooden closet hanger dowel.

IMO of all the choices the "closet dowel" sounds like the winner,and it would look good.
Frank

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

What about something like this adjustable RV table leg?

 

[cwdtmmrs]

Doesn't this make lifting the roof a 2-man project unless you have the speaker tripod or something similar? Someone/something has to hold the roof up while you crawl up on the cab over to pivot the pipes into place. No/yes?

CWD

 

[Dusty Roads]

I am interested in hearing an update on this. Any roof alignment problems with not being attached to the top, especially when lowering the roof?

Thanks,

Dusty

 

[Nearlyroadready]

Riz! That is totally awesome! I'm on my first 1984 fleet and have already gotten frustrated just thinking about replacing those damn panels. I'd love to hear (as would Dusty) about any issues that might have arisen through using this system. The only thing that is of concern is the top no longer being attached to the camper proper, but that might not actually be a problem. Any update would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Luke

 

[Beach]

Its not a shear load on the pipe so you should be ok, in extreme cold the PVC could be brittle though. Closet rod would be a winner.

 

[mojave joe]

I tried using just gas struts and getting the top aligned to close it was a problem. I made a simple bi-fold panel out of ply for both ends and it worked great.

 

[Nearlyroadready]

mojave joe, you got a picture of those or anything? I need some sort of fix for this folding panel/rivet problem

 

[mojave joe]

No, sorry. After completion of all the repairs, I took a 100 mile ride with the camper on my 4 cylinder Tacoma and realized it was just too heavy and sold it.

 

[madhatt]

Mojave Joe, where did you get the hinge for your simple bi-fold replacement panel? My existing springed hinge is shot, and I'm thinking a regular hinge with some plywood should suffice since I lift the roof myself and simply use the panels to keep it up.