DIY screen door slider with door opener latch

rchawk

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Posts
10
Location
Wyoming
The screen door slider in my 2017 Hawk cracked and Four Wheel Camper shows the replacement out of stock. When searching for a replacement I found these:

Camco 43953 RV Screen Door Opener

Lippert Replacement RV Screen Door Slider Panel with Push-Down Knob Opener

The first is just a lever you can install in an existing slider to open the screen door without opening the slider. Although the second is too small for my door, it has a push down knob to open the door without opening the slider. Why don’t our sliders have this feature? That gave me the idea to create my own.

I ordered a piece of 12” x 12” x 2mm clear plexiglass, which fits perfectly in the screen door without cutting. Then I made the push down latch shown below. It’s a small piece of teak with a notch for the ¼” aluminum rod. The aluminum rod slides up and down an 1/8” steel rod inserted into the teak block with a spring.

Slider latch1.jpg

Slider latch2.jpg


The push down latch is mounted to the corner of the plexiglass just above the screen door latch. It is positioned on the inside curve of the screen door latch so that pushing down doesn’t open the slider. I sandwiched the edge of the plexiglass with two strips of teak as a stiffener so it doesn’t bow when pushing down on the latch.

Slider latch3.jpg

Slider latch4.jpg


We use the aluminum rod to open the slider from the exterior and the wooden knob from the interior. Works great. The original bowed slider edge cover remains as a nice handle to close the door.
 
The screen door slider in my 2017 Hawk cracked and Four Wheel Camper shows the replacement out of stock. When searching for a replacement I found these:

Camco 43953 RV Screen Door Opener

Lippert Replacement RV Screen Door Slider Panel with Push-Down Knob Opener

The first is just a lever you can install in an existing slider to open the screen door without opening the slider. Although the second is too small for my door, it has a push down knob to open the door without opening the slider. Why don’t our sliders have this feature? That gave me the idea to create my own.

I ordered a piece of 12” x 12” x 2mm clear plexiglass, which fits perfectly in the screen door without cutting. Then I made the push down latch shown below. It’s a small piece of teak with a notch for the ¼” aluminum rod. The aluminum rod slides up and down an 1/8” steel rod inserted into the teak block with a spring.

View attachment 1329345
View attachment 1329346

The push down latch is mounted to the corner of the plexiglass just above the screen door latch. It is positioned on the inside curve of the screen door latch so that pushing down doesn’t open the slider. I sandwiched the edge of the plexiglass with two strips of teak as a stiffener so it doesn’t bow when pushing down on the latch.

View attachment 1329347
View attachment 1329348

We use the aluminum rod to open the slider from the exterior and the wooden knob from the interior. Works great. The original bowed slider edge cover remains as a nice handle to close the door.
Any chance you could help me with details on how to make this slider? I understand the concept but I'm not sure how to make it and how the rod stays in place. Would greatly appreciate and help you'd be willing to provide! I purchased the Lippert panel (smaller size than my 12x12 ooening) but the knife does not come apart. Looking to make this same latch! Thank you - Mandy
 
Mandy, I am happy to help. First, get a 12" x 12" x 2mm piece of clear plexiglass. It fits perfectly. You just have to bend it to install in the door's tracks.

My latch's wood block is 1" x 1 7/8" cut from 3/4" stock. The 1/4" wide slot for the aluminum rod is 7/8" long and centered in the block. After cutting the slot, I drilled an 1/8" hole through the aluminum rod and the center length of the block stopping about an 1/8" short so there are no visible holes in the top of the block. The 1/8" steel rod is about 1 3/8" long or about 1/4" shorter than the 1 7/8" block. The 1/8" steel rod is inserted through the bottom of the block, 5/8" long spring, the aluminum rod and the top of the block then secured with a short piece of 1/8" wooden dowel glued into the bottom of the block.

Here are a few more pictures showing the pieces of the latch and how they are assembled.

Slider latch assembly1.jpg



Slider latch assembly2.jpg


Slider latch assembly3.jpg


The pieces above are from my first attempt. I did not drill the 1/8" hole exactly center in both the block and the aluminum rod so the aluminum rod did not slide freely in the block's slot. I got it right on my second attempt and it works nicely. The aluminum rod protrudes about 7/8" from the block on the outside to contact the screen door's latch. On the inside, I cut it just long enough to fit in the wooden knob I used.

Here's a sketch showing the location of the slot in the slider plexiglass. The slot in the plexiglass does not have to be as tall as the one in the block because the block has the spring.

Slider latch slot.jpg


I hope that helps. Good luck with your build. It really is a nice addition to the screen door.
 
Last edited:
On my camper (2005 vintage) the door handle mechanism would interfere with a flat lexan sheet, it need the bump out that some sliders have. Interesting idea though!
 
On my camper (2005 vintage) the door handle mechanism would interfere with a flat lexan sheet, it need the bump out that some sliders have. Interesting idea though!
Yes, the stiffeners I added to the edge of the flat slider hit the deadbolt latch when the screen door is latched to the main door keeping the slider from closing the last 1.5". But that's not a problem, since the slider has to be open to access the main door handle and deadbolt.
 

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