Double Check My Wiring Please?

[MTCruiser]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the helpful info on here. I am electrically challenged and from reading the threads on here I have come up with the following. I took advantage of BB sale last week and ordered 2 Smart 100amp hour GC2 heated batteries with their hub kit and the Orion XS 50 DC to DC charger. I think I have it all figured out to wire, my plan is to build a to scale replica of my battery box to figure out layout and make my wires prior to install in the camper. 2022 Hawk Side Dinette shell model so no onboard water. Could someone check my wiring here and make sure it looks correct? Will be using 6AWG welding cable

 

[Vic Harder]

Looks ok so far. You seem to be missing the +ve connection for the house battery, and all the loads (aside from that Starlink 12-24 converter.... that threw me for a bit!).

 

[MTCruiser]

Looks ok so far. You seem to be missing the +ve connection for the house battery, and all the loads (aside from that Starlink 12-24 converter.... that threw me for a bit!).

Thanks Vic! Ahh yes, I should have mentioned my drawing only has wiring I need to do. The +,- existing loads will be connected to respective buss bars noted. What +ve connection do i need? I was told by Battle Born that with the smart battteries and their hub that a smart shunt was no longer needed.

 

[Vic Harder]

I don't have bluetooth enabled BB batteries, so can't comment on the shunt question. I'd have a breaker between the house battery and the +ve buss.

 

[MTCruiser]

Oh you’re right! I missed that thank you!

Do I need a battery disconnect switch on the house bat +? It’s going to be a tight fit so wondering if it’s a must have ?

 

[Vic Harder]

Oh you’re right! I missed that thank you!

Do I need a battery disconnect switch on the house bat +? It’s going to be a tight fit so wondering if it’s a must have ?

do you mean a main breaker (like the fwc/atc "pull" knob)? Those are super handy. If you mean a real big (500A) type of battery switch, then those can be nice if you plan on disconnecting often. FWIW, I don't have one.

 

[MTCruiser]

do you mean a main breaker (like the fwc/atc "pull" knob)? Those are super handy. If you mean a real big (500A) type of battery switch, then those can be nice if you plan on disconnecting often. FWIW, I don't have one.

I’m planning on leaving the “pull” knob thats from the factory in working order. BB says in their manual if not using the batteries to top them off and disconnect so wasn’t sure if most people are using one of these

 

[Jon R]

I think if my battery had not had its own shutoff switch, I would just have relied on the ability to manually disconnect the battery either at my positive fuse block or at the negative bus bar. I end up wanting the battery definitely disconnected a couple of times a year either for storage or maintenance/alterations. That’s not to often to just get the wrench out. However, it’s really handy to have the switch on my battery to avoid disconnecting wiring, so I use it. Again, I estimate I turn the battery switch off two to four times a year.

Remember the silver pull switch provided with the camper just disconnects the battery from the camper fuse block and DLS-30. It does not disconnect the battery from the solar or truck charging system.

The other nice thing about a battery switch is if you have a spouse or another person using the camper on their own without full knowledge of the electrical system. In that case you can tell them,”if you think something is malfunctioning, you can completely disconnect everything by turning off this one switch.”

 

[Vic Harder]

+1 to what Jon said. I just use a wrench a time or two a year.

 

[MTCruiser]

Thanks for the advice, I have just about everything for install going to start when the weather cooperates.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I see a good set of crimpers in that photo!

 

[superduty]

My 2 cents. For the investment you are making here, I would ditch the overland solar controller and get a Victron MPPT solar controller. It is nice to be able to see everything in the Victron app.

 

[MTCruiser]

My 2 cents. For the investment you are making here, I would ditch the overland solar controller and get a Victron MPPT solar controller. It is nice to be able to see everything in the Victron app.

Isn’t it just a rebranded Victron unit, that’s what Overland Solar told me ?

Also, I will be using the Battle Born app as these are their smart batteries. My understanding is they will show what the panels are putting out?

 

[superduty]

Isn’t it just a rebranded Victron unit, that’s what Overland Solar told me ?

Also, I will be using the Battle Born app as these are their smart batteries. My understanding is they will show what the panels are putting out?

I have heard it is a rebranded Victon as well, but my understanding is there is no Bluetooth capability, which I have found to be a nice addition. Also, there seems to be a higher failure rate of these compared to Victron components.

Do you also have the overland solar display gauge?

 

[MTCruiser]

I have heard it is a rebranded Victon as well, but my understanding is there is no Bluetooth capability, which I have found to be a nice addition. Also, there seems to be a higher failure rate of these compared to Victron components.

Do you also have the overland solar display gauge?

Good points, maybe I should get a Victron unit… which one do you suggest ? Running 250 watts on the roof and 130 BugOut.

I do have the overland display which is why I ordered this one. It should still be plug and play.

 

[MTCruiser]

I think if my battery had not had its own shutoff switch, I would just have relied on the ability to manually disconnect the battery either at my positive fuse block or at the negative bus bar. I end up wanting the battery definitely disconnected a couple of times a year either for storage or maintenance/alterations. That’s not to often to just get the wrench out. However, it’s really handy to have the switch on my battery to avoid disconnecting wiring, so I use it. Again, I estimate I turn the battery switch off two to four times a year.

Remember the silver pull switch provided with the camper just disconnects the battery from the camper fuse block and DLS-30. It does not disconnect the battery from the solar or truck charging system.

The other nice thing about a battery switch is if you have a spouse or another person using the camper on their own without full knowledge of the electrical system. In that case you can tell them,”if you think something is malfunctioning, you can completely disconnect everything by turning off this one switch.”

Thanks for this, I forgot to mention I do not have shore power so no DLS unit in mine. I do like your points though!

 

[superduty]

Good points, maybe I should get a Victron unit… which one do you suggest ? Running 250 watts on the roof and 130 BugOut.

I do have the overland display which is why I ordered this one. It should still be plug and play.

I was concerned about the overland solar being programmable for lifepo4. Apparently, it is programable (important) if you have the overland solar display. Also, if I read correctly, you can add the Victron BT dongle and have them use the Victron app to program and control.

Check out THIS thread for some more info.

I haven't seen any statistics on the overland solar controller failing, it just seems like i have seen a few threads about systems that have that controller having problems. I am not sure if the failures were the solar panel, wiring issues or the controller. If you have the BT control over it, it is easier to program and troubleshoot when you are on the road (also good to carry a handheld volt/ohm meter).

 

[MTCruiser]

I was concerned about the overland solar being programmable for lifepo4. Apparently, it is programable (important) if you have the overland solar display. Also, if I read correctly, you can add the Victron BT dongle and have them use the Victron app to program and control.

Check out THIS thread for some more info.

I haven't seen any statistics on the overland solar controller failing, it just seems like i have seen a few threads about systems that have that controller having problems. I am not sure if the failures were the solar panel, wiring issues or the controller. If you have the BT control over it, it is easier to program and troubleshoot when you are on the road (also good to carry a handheld volt/ohm meter).

Thanks! Good advice! Do you have any recommendations for bus bars that work well with space restrictions?

Everything I’m finding with 1/4 or 5/16 studs is too big for my battery box.

 

[superduty]

Thanks! Good advice! Do you have any recommendations for bus bars that work well with space restrictions?

Everything I’m finding with 1/4 or 5/16 studs is too big for my battery box.

There are a bunch of choices on Amazon. There are some fairly compact ones with 2 studs, or even a single stud where you can stack a few wires, though I believe the purists suggest a stuff for each terminal/wire.

Blue Sea is a preferred brand, but I'm not convinced there is a huge difference between bus bars for a typical camper electrical system. When you get into the really big systems, I'm sure it makes a difference.

 

[MTCruiser]

Thanks! Good advice! Do you have any recommendations for bus bars that work well with space restrictions?

Everything I’m finding with 1/4 or 5/16 studs is too big for my battery box.

Is this compatible with the dongle you mentioned? I hate to tear apart the cabinet to see.