Fit to be Tied Down

[diamelle]

After a search of several months, I have finally landed a classic 1985 FWC Keystone.

While the search was in progress, I had front Torklift mounts installed on my 1990 Ford F250, along with button mounts on the rear bumper. I found my camper and brought it home lashed down with 2" ratchet straps.

Now I need to apply some mounting eyes to the Keystone. I have searched the forums without finding any specific directions about where and how to do this.

I am just not sure what kind of brackets to use and how to attach them to the aluminum frame. I don't want to weaken the frame by drilling or screwing in the wrong place. I know that this must have been done time and again and I would appreciate any shared wisdom.

Thanks!

 

[diamelle]

I have had another thought about anchoring the camper with plates and eyebolts through the flat area that overhangs beyond the bed rail on my '85 Keystone. I am tying down to Tork-Lift mounts.

Is there any horizontal aluminum framing in this area that I can tie to? I would like to be mounting to more than just plywood. I haven't found any photos of the bare framing that would give me a clue.

Thanks,
David

 

[Argonaut20]

You might look at the ATC web site as they used to have pictures of the bare frame. Another idea is to put eye bolts through the bottom holes of the jack mounts on each corner. You can then tie down to the Tork Lift mounts.

 

[diamelle]

The first picture shows a similar Keystone mounted to Brophy stake pocket mounts. This setup is obviously using an eyebolt through the overhang. I just don't know if its bolted through a frame member, or just through the plywood, or possibly using a metal plate to spread the load over the frame.

The lower "skirt" at the rear of the camper prevents me from using a turnbuckle from the bumper to the jack mount.

The other picture is the frame picture from the FWC website. The plywood is already positioned on the overhang and obscures the frame in that area.

I appreciate the reply.

Thanks,
David

 

[Argonaut20]

My guess is that the area below the side overhang is plywood with aluminum frame front and rear. Eye bolts going through the plywood with what amounts to a fender washer to spread the load. I recall there have been some postings by folks who have pulled the eye bolt through the plywood leading me to believe the eye bolts do not go through the frame.

 

[diamelle]

My guess is that the area below the side overhang is plywood with aluminum frame front and rear. Eye bolts going through the plywood with what amounts to a fender washer to spread the load. I recall there have been some postings by folks who have pulled the eye bolt through the plywood leading me to believe the eye bolts do not go through the frame.


I think what's called for is a large steel plate on the order of 9" x 12" to spread the load.

 

[Argonaut20]

Sounds like overkill. 2 inch fender washers should do the trick. Or mount by drilling through the camper and bed and using through bolts. The idea is to keep the truck and camper moving as a unit. If the turnbuckles are too loose, the camper can bounce around which will stress the mounts to the point they may break. If the turnbuckles are too tight, they will deform the plywood over time. The springs in Tork Lift mounts (derringers, etc) work to keep the truck and camper together with a little shock absorption possible.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Most of the old Keystone Models like yours were bolted to the truck bed.

4 bolts in the camper floor, bolted through the truck bed.

If you look you might see the original holes in the camper floor.

I have seen other customers come through here with different types of "home made" external tie downs over the years.

(see attached pictures below)

They seemed to be working just fine.

Pretty sure they just bolted an eye nut or and eye bolt through the outer edge of the camper base (just through the wood) and used the traditional camper tie downs & turn buckles.

On new campers we can sometimes used external tie downs to the jack brackets on the corner of the camper, but the new campers have more aluminum in the corners than the older campers.

As long as you are not doing any wild & crazy off road trails, the simplest camper tie down systems will usually hold the camper securely to the truck bed.

The older Keystone Models were pretty big & heavy and had a very short & low profile cabover design. So there is not much wind resistance trying to push the camper off. For the most part it wants to stay where it is on its' own. You just need to make some tie downs, reinforce as you wish, and this should keep the camper from sliding around back there.

A little extra for securing the camper to the truck safely is always a good idea. But keeping it simple & getting it done so you can go enjoy the camper is important too.

Hope this helps.

Have fun with your "new to you" camper !





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[Stan@FourWheel]

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here are a couple more sample pictures for you ...

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[diamelle]

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here are a couple more sample pictures for you ...

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Stan,

Thanks for the photos, especially the one of the Keystone frame. That's a big help.

I am thinking of running a piece of unistrut along the length of the overhang and bolting that through a reinforcing plate on the inside in several places. I can then bolt tabs anywhere along the length for the the tiedowns, as well as other accessories.

Why build, when you can overbuild.

Thanks,
Dave