Fort Lupton 10" CO 1972

pawpaw

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2016
Messages
40
Location
Midwest
After seven years I finally have the time to start my rebuild on this 1972 CO that came from the Ft. Lupton plant. I never claimed to be fast and with a recent retirement I have the time to start. Can't think of a better location to document my slow progress than here. A shout out to some of my old acquaitenances here that helped in the beginning......I hope Rusty, RipperJ, and Archie71 are all well.

First a little history from 2017: https ://www.wanderthewest.com/threads/a-new-alaskan-on-the-market.12737/

Since acquiring this Alaskan I made sure it was put in the barn to stay dry. Dust and spiders were a different matter. Last week I purchased a small 8' trailer as a camper dolly and moved it into my shop for the rebuild. First priority was to clean it and remove the old smelly carpet that was glued down to the linoleum. To my surprise the flooring had a stamp under the table floor door that read: "Armstrong floor covering" There was a number of the product but I could not read it. The lineoleum is in amazing shape and with a little elbow grease it looks almost new. I have read in some earlier postings that of the 7 Alaskan plants Ft. Lupton was not considered the best plant for quality. Maybe I got lucky and this one was built on a Tuesday but I can atest this one is very well built. The quality shows throughout but especially in the cabinetry. More pictures to come.

Pawpaw
 

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The top section will need rebuilt on the front corners and the very front eyebrow and possibly the bottoms of the windows but 95% of the interior ash veneer is in good shape. The roof and side skins need removal for the rebuild. A few more pics.
 

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When I picked up this CO in Pueblo it came with two new Brophy cable jacks. Needless to say it was a bit scary to get it loaded on my truck. I just completed adding four Reico Titan heavy duty jacks with backing plates. The Brophy will come in handy for raising the top section to help separate. Next step is to replace the O rings on all four rams. I found them for $5.50 from McMaster carr.
 

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A few more pics of the inside showing the type of plywood Ft Lupton was using in 72. I have owned several truck campers over 20 years but I have never seen a drawer as large as this.
 

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This is one of my favorite gadgets that Alaskan added.
 

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More progress on preparing to rebuild the top CO section. I installed pulleys above each vent and started the removal of the outer skin. Instead of purchasing two overhead winches I am leaning toward quality hemp rope and two come-alongs. Once lifted above the bottom box I can place supports on the corners and lower the top CO down for the final work. As you can see from the pics the usual places on these CO's need replaced. Most of the moisture entered via the clearance lights and screw holes not sealed. One problem area in the CO bed area during the early years was the use of carpet strips to seal the hinged panels. No more carpet for this one.
 

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I ended up purchasing two 500 lb overhead winches just to be safe. The top skin is ready to slide off I just need to find a helper.
 

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Thanks Sagebrush.......As with many rebuilds I am standing on the shoulders of previous Alaskan restorations. There are several well documented restos here that I am relying on. With the camper inside my shop I don't want to waste any more time so I have been working a couple of hours each day.

Today I was able to safely slide the top skin off the side on pic boards. Once off a friend came over to help move it and tie it into a roll. The skin is one piece and heavier than I expected. I now have a template to send to Alaskan or Brian Wheat for a new skin. While taking pictures of the fiberglass insulation under the skin I noticed something left by the builders.........at first I thought it was a bolt but a closer look showed it to be a air chuck blower.......in perfect shape. The best part is it works better than the one i had.....Thank you Fort Lupton workers from 1972! A few pics of todays work.
 

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With the skin removed it was time to mask up and tackle the dirty job of removing old bat insulation. I contemplated re-using as it looked in good shape but as I started removing a lot of dust and fiber particles were on the vapor barrier. No water stains or brown spots on the fiberglass and very little water staining on the backside of the wood. The vapor barrier Ft Lupton used was very thick. I fully expected more damage on top but was pleasantly surprised.
 

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I decided to remove the skin on the door top section to inspect even though it looked solid with minimum water stains on the inside. Glad I did as the bottom of the back CO section had some dry rot on the last few inches. Now is a good time to replace it with the knowledge that it will be 100% solid. A few pics of todays progress.
 

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Worked on the hydraulics, removed the old hyd oil (redish color) and blew out the copper lines and rams with compressed air. Installed new o-rings and coated them with new Hyd oil before installing. Removed the old oil from the pump reservoir and dismantled the pump so I could inspect the O-ring. The pump o-ring looked good but I still procured a new one since it was apart. The dimensions on the pump o-ring ID for this 1972 model was 0.755" it is a thicker o-ring then the rams. I found its replacement at a local farm store. On this pump there is a flat (some type of teflon or plastic) washer that sits next to the o-ring itself. I did not remove it nor try as it is smaller than the o-ring in diameter. It must act as a cushion. Also recieved four parker F400B control valves to install while all is drained.
 

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That reddish color hydraulic fluid was probably Mil Spec 5606 aviation hydraulic fluid. I used it in the steering system of my C-Dory. Red to spot leaks more quickly.
 
That reddish color hydraulic fluid was probably Mil Spec 5606 aviation hydraulic fluid. I used it in the steering system of my C-Dory. Red to spot leaks more quickly.
Which means the fluid was likely original. I plan on replacing it with a good quality Tractor hydraulic fluid like John Deere.
 
My progress has slowed a bit with other projects taking priority but I did have time to install Parker 400B flow control valves on all four cylinders. I received advice from Bryan Wheat on the correct way to install them. At first I left the original small nipples on the bottom of the cylinders and just screwed the control valves to them. Bryan advised to check them for springs and or ball bearings. I did and as Bryan warned they had springs I could see when removed. Had to purchase 4 new brass nipples to correctly install the valves. Also Bryan advised to install the valves as such:
"Make sure there’s no fittings between the Hyd line and the piston. Install the front ones pointing away from the piston and the rear one pointing towards the pistons . That gives front wide open volume on the way up for the weight of the cab over. You will adjust the rears on the way up to match the speed of the front. Exactly opposite on the way down. The rear will be unrestricted and you will control the front valves to match the rear end drop speed."
A few pics of the old nipples vs the new ones.
 

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