#/%@^& Four Wheel Campers

[camelracer]

After installing my Truckfridge TF130 it was time to add some solar power. Using the wisdom of my fellow wanders I ordered the panel, controller and monitor. Got everything installed today and found the wires in the roof exactly where Terry said they would be.

Hooked up all the wiring and checked the monitor to see all that power flowing to my batteries. To my surprise there was no power flowing - WTF. Went up the ladder and checked the the panel output - 17 volts. Went down in the camper and checked the controller input - 0 volts. Back and forth a couple of times with similar results. Then I checked the wiring behind the lift panel and found a broken wire. The other 3 wires were intact but damaged and would have broken soon.

I know this has been discussed before in another thread and I should have expected it but it pisses me off that FWC uses residential type wire in their campers. That type of wire is meant for a static environment and should not be used in a mobile application especially behind the lift panel. I think the accountants have more design input than the engineers.

Tomorrow I'll be replacing that section of wiring with something flexible,

 

[ntsqd]

M16878/4

 

[pods8]

One of the things constantly amazing me is manufacturer's using typical residential romex for the AC wiring, that's just a bad idea. Get some stranded wiring in there.


FYI: I got a bunch of 14ga that is 41strand wiring and thick jacketed. I thought I was buying SXL but that would have been only 19strand, this is most likely MTW. Not sure if you have a good local source or not.

 

[Overland Hadley]

What year is your camper?

 

[camelracer]

One of the things constantly amazing me is manufacturer's using typical residential romex for the AC wiring, that's just a bad idea. Get some stranded wiring in there.


FYI: I got a bunch of 14ga that is 41strand wiring and thick jacketed. I thought I was buying SXL but that would have been only 19strand, this is most likely MTW. Not sure if you have a good local source or not.

I was planning on using some material left over from wiring the Jeep. I'm not sure of the strand count but I'll check it out. It's got to be better than the FWC crap.

 

[camelracer]

What year is your camper?

It's an '06

 

[craig333]

I understand. While so far I haven't had a problem the fwc way certainly isn't the way I'd do my own wiring. Not cheap but I get most of my wire from Westmarine (its just down the street) and use only heat shrink connectors (solder filled when I can). Electrical gremlins are bad enough when you do things right.

 

[ntsqd]

My link is for the 200°C mil-spec wire that we use at work. It is tin plated and can be had in 19 strands as well as fewer or greater depending on the gauge and voltage required. I've attached the pdf spec file. NEMA HP-3 spec supersedes the M16878 spec, but M16878 has been around for so long that its usually easier to find. The spec has how to specify different colors.

Probably over the top for what you need, but I'm tired of buying the junk that the local auto parts stores carry - and then having to replace it several years later. A quick search turned up many vendors, but no pricing. FFT anyway....

 

[AK Nomad]

So....what is the "correct" wire for this application where you have repetitive movement? (Just because someone uses product X at work, doesn't convince me that I should use it for this particular use) Any quality stranded copper wire? Extension cord grade? Polar Wire is good stuff if you use the camper in colder temps - I'm not sure about repetative movement though. I need to get behind the front lift and reconnect the fabric to the lift (it no longer folds properly when letting the top down), and so I should run some wire to the roof for solar at the same time. I think I'll be looking for flexible control cable, trailer wiring, etc. Something they use for solar trackers, robotics, trailer wiring, etc. Sound right?

 

[highz]

I don't know about it being "correct", but I chose to splice in stranded silicone coated wire, which is used in robotics. It is very flexible at all temperatures. It is also expensive, but you don't need a lot of it. Just splice in the part that bends at the hinge.

 

[RJones]

Appreciate this fix and seems the way to go. Do you have a source for the wire mentioned?


I don't know about it being "correct", but I chose to splice in stranded silicone coated wire, which is used in robotics. It is very flexible at all temperatures. It is also expensive, but you don't need a lot of it. Just splice in the part that bends at the hinge.

 

[highz]

As I recall, I just picked up a few feet of it from Amazon.

Amazon link


I used Posi-Lock connectors so that I could make repairs in the field without tools. Everything has held up fine so far, although it hasn't been all that long since I made the repair. Here's the WtW thread about this and other solutions.

Earlier thread

 

[Silvertip47]

FWC obviously reads these posts concerning their campers. Why no reply form them?

 

[ntsqd]

We use the M16878/4 wire as the hook-up wire on the pressure rated/potted receptacles for subsea submersibles and ROV's. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/interconnect/products/subsea/dry_mate.html
If you look up M16878 wire in the link that I first provided without the slash number you can find specs for wire with all sorts of different performance traits and insulation types.

 

[contento]

FWC obviously reads these posts concerning their campers. Why no reply form them?



My guess is because they haven't changed it?



They could at least make upgraded wires an option, imo. I'd be willing to pay so I didn't have to retrofit it after the fact.

 

[mtn-high]

FWC obviously reads these posts concerning their campers. Why no reply form them?



Like the hard mattress that seems to break everyone's ass.... dunno. You'd think after >years< of complaints there would be some sort of a change... yet. (can you tell I need a new mattress/am tired of my hip hurting all night?)

It can't cost much, if anything >more< to put a >sleepable bed< in these campers.

 

[pods8]

So....what is the "correct" wire for this application where you have repetitive movement?


Dunno. My thoughts though are: higher strand count will flex better and fatigue the wire strands less. I ponder if a thicker (but still flexible) jacket will also help wire fatigue as it won't allow a wire to bend TOO much in at a specific point and will keep the bend radius more uniform.

 

[pods8]

As I recall, I just picked up a few feet of it from Amazon.

Amazon link



I have a bunch of 14ga 41 strand thicker insulation wire as previously noted. I'll shoot off 100' for basically the same price ($18 shipped). If someone wants to check it out let me know, if hesitant about not seeing in person I'll even say for WTW regulars who I know aren't out to scam I'll give you a refund and you can keep it if you don't like it.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

We changed the bed mattresses already.

We also changed how we run that wiring.

We have been on the road the last 7 days working 14 hours a day, no cell, no wifi, no internet.



I will be back on line soon.

Have patience.






.

 

[contento]

I feel bad for ya Stan! You gotta take the "internet heat" for FWC gets questioned on the web.


Can't FWC make note of big changes, such as a new and improved mattress, on their website so you don't have to do it all yourself?