Fridge and pop-up trouble

Tailfins

Advanced Member
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May 13, 2008
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I've started checking the function of my Hawk's various features in preparation for my first trip.

The first problem is that the fridge doesn't seem to be working. It's cold here in Utah, so I've been running a little 110 volt space heater inside the camper at night to keep the temperature at about 50-60 degrees. I put a refrigerator thermometer in the fridge, set the fridge's temperature knob to 4, and the main switch to AC (plug icon). The temperature inside the fridge stays at whatever the temperature is inside the camper. It doesn't get cold.

My other problem is that I can't raise the camper top all the way. I can lift it maybe a third of the way, but then the resistance becomes so great I can't lift it any further. All six latches are undone and there is no snow on the roof. Could it be that the vinyl sides are too stiff because of the cold? Or am I just the weakest of camper weaklings? Hard to believe, because I've seen other people (in videos) pop the top on FWC's with apparent ease.

Any ideas or comments? I really need to solve these two problems.

Thanks.
 
By chance you are not trying to raise the roof with the door closed are you? If so, you will never raise it. Otherwise no idea. I assume you've had the roof up previously.
 
I'd put a dollar on SunMan's explanation. That's an easy mistake to make in the winter when its cold out.
 
fins,

Is the door open when you're trying to pop up? If not then that is cause of the problem as the air exchange is critical for ease of lifting the lid. If that isn't the issue than I'm at a loss to explain it and will be interested in the final solution.

I see sunman had the same idea and maybe llike me has made same mistake in the past, that lid gets very heavy with the door closed.
 
And how many times have I watched videos of people lifting the top, where they say to be sure the door is open! I can't believe I didn't remember that. Anyway, after reading your replies I rushed outside and tried the top again. It went up with very little effort.

I only hope the fridge problem will have as simple a fix.

Thanks for whacking me over the head with a 2x4, guys. Sometimes I need it.

-- El Stupido
 
And how many times have I watched videos of people lifting the top, where they say to be sure the door is open! I can't believe I didn't remember that. Anyway, after reading your replies I rushed outside and tried the top again. It went up with very little effort.

I only hope the fridge problem will have as simple a fix.

Thanks for whacking me over the head with a 2x4, guys. Sometimes I need it.

-- El Stupido{NOT!}

...and the only reason why *we all* know this is because *we all* have done it before... :rolleyes:
 
I've had the door suck closed when lifting the top...enough to hurnt somebody.

As far as the refg...check to see if the power circuit breaker is on inside at the pannel. Make sure the outside the AC is the only source selected. There is a plug in for the AC from the refg inside up near the underside of the sink, see if it is indeed pluged in. Turn the thermostat to 5.

Has it every worked for you or is this the first time using it??
 
As far as the refg...check to see if the power circuit breaker is on inside at the pannel.

>>>Checked all three circuit breakers. No problem there.

Make sure the outside the AC is the only source selected.

>>>I don't know what you mean. If you're talking about the mode selector on the fridge, the switch can only be set to one thing at a time.

There is a plug in for the AC from the refg inside up near the underside of the sink, see if it is indeed pluged in.

>>>In my Hawk, it's underneath the range, and it is plugged in.

Turn the thermostat to 5.

>>>Okay, I'll try that tonight, but I can hear the thermostat click when I pass the number 2. I would think that the fridge should operate at any setting above where the thermostat clicks.

Has it every worked for you or is this the first time using it??

>>>First time. I haven't been able to test it on gas because I don't have a level place to park the truck. Tomorrow, I'll try it on DC while driving.

>>>Thanks for your help. The fridge worked for the previous owner. Seems strange that it doesn't work now.
 
Has it every worked for you or is this the first time using it??

>>>First time. I haven't been able to test it on gas because I don't have a level place to park the truck. Tomorrow, I'll try it on DC while driving.

>>>Thanks for your help. The fridge worked for the previous owner. Seems strange that it doesn't work now.

I believe the unit needs to be level on AC to work, not just on gas.
 
And if you fire it up on gas expect it not to cool right down. It takes a while, even on AC.

You want to level the camper for both gas and AC. I will start precooling a day or two before the trip. You can pack it full of ice to speed it up if you are running out of time.
 
I went back and re-read the manual, and it does say that the fridge must be level, but doesn't state specifically whether or not that refers to electrical operation as well as propane. If the fridge must be level to operate on AC or DC, then that's most likely my problem, although I don't understand why this is so. In truth, I'm clueless as to how the fridge works on 'tricity. Since I'm not planning to rely heavily on refrigeration, I'm going to wait until I'm on the road and camping to start fiddling with the fridge. If it works, fine. If it doesn't I'll have it fixed when I return from my trip. In any case, it works nicely as a pantry cabinet. Not everything in the food line needs to be kept cold.

Thanks for your help. You probably put your finger on the problem.
 
It is because the AC and gas use the same heating of the Ammonia (or whatever they are using) to rise and fall in the tubes to get the cooling inside the refg. If you are off level the rise and fall in the tubes won’t work.

It will take a long time to cool down on the road if you don’t pre cool it. Pack it with ice to help. And don’t expect DC to do anything if it is not cool all ready.
 
DC sucks.

don’t expect DC to do anything if it is not cool all ready.
Yep. Further, the current draw is annoyingly high. If you really want to use 12v, I think the Nova Kool R2600 might work well. Also, I think ithe Danfoss compressors less angle sensitive.

But, we--and others--run propane on the road. Check the [thread=1251]auto relighter thread[/thread]. It's an [post=15193]easy 20 minute mod[/post].
 
Thanks, Patrick and Scott. I think I understand the refrigerator now. I only hope I haven't done damage to it by trying to run it on an angle. Oh, well, live and learn. Sometime this week I'll get the chance to park on a level spot and try the propane setting.
 
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