Front Dinette Floor Storage Sliding Drawer

bwag

Advanced Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Posts
89
I've had my Hawk for 5 years and for at least 4 of those years I've wanted to change the front dinette floor storage/foot rest cabinet. I've always hated when I had stuff placed on top of it I'd have to move it to open and access the storage area, I also don't like how shallow it is and that it's divided.

About 4 years ago I told myself I'd spend the money if Goose Gear would make me a custom sliding drawer, in hindsight I'm glad they wouldn't, it would have been at least $1000 based off the sizes they sell. I also considered framing one out using 80/20.net but I didn't trust myself that I'd have all the measurements as accurate as I'd like, they do offer help in designing custom products but I figured I'd just make one out of birch plywood.

Not woodworker or mathematician, first try it was too tight of a fit, second try came out pretty good. Currently coating the top and drawer face then I'll install a slam latch and secure tge drawer in place.

The internal height of the drawer is 7" the overall is height of the drawer is a little over 9" which to me makes sitting at the dinette more comfortable. All in I'm around $170.





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That is a great mod! Right now I use mine for canned goods on the left hand side lying down and my crocs and another pair of shoes on the right hand side. I like what you did here. Is it deep enough to place standard sized canned goods standing up? Also, does the drawer lock closed so that it does not slide open while on bumpy roads?
 
That is a great mod! Right now I use mine for canned goods on the left hand side lying down and my crocs and another pair of shoes on the right hand side. I like what you did here. Is it deep enough to place standard sized canned goods standing up? Also, does the drawer lock closed so that it does not slide open while on bumpy roads?
It's 7" deep inside the drawer, I put all my plates and pots, cups, in there no problem, kind of surprising how much I can fit in it.

The drawer does latch closed. I'll need to use a slightly bigger hole saw on the rear side of the latch to attach the rear plate which keeps the latch in place. It works in its current state but I'd prefer to put the rear plate on. Basically the face of the drawer is too thick for the rear latch plate to attach, seems to be common as I saw a video on YouTube where a guy used a slightly bigger hole saw on the rear than the front so the latch would slide on. The latch is a "slam latch" if you look them up on YouTube it may make more sense than how I'm describing it.

Definitely happy I made the change.
 

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