Front Panel Lift Hinge upgrade

[GflGdog]

I thought I found this topic on the site, but after searching for a while I cannot find it. The offset hinge on the front lift panel that attaches to the push board that you use to push the front of the camper up is what I am referring to. Not sure the proper name. There has to be a better solution, that allows the push board/bar to be placed closer to the roof when the top is up. At its current location, it is a PITA to sleep under as we sleep east/west. Any ideas or input on modifications or upgrades?

 

[rubberlegs]

That's a tough one, because it needs to be flat against the roof when the top is down. Perhaps you could put a hinge in it, that can be locked out when you need to push on it. But the lockout could be off so you can fold it up.

The push board has another function besides helping you raise the roof. It keeps the over-center lift panel on the right side of over center. If you had a gust of wind hit the front of your camper, it might push the lift panel on the wrong side of over center, and the roof would drop. Ouch. Anyway, that's why the board needs to be snapped to the ceiling, so the lift panel robustly keeps the roof up. So you probably have to move the snap on the ceiling if you put a fold in the push board.

 

[Vic Harder]

When I rebuilt mine, I removed the funny wire thingy that they used before a push board, and mounted it to the very top of the top front panel with a piece of piano hinge.

 

[Smelly621]

I found this solution on the Facebook FWC group (which has some great ideas but is miserable to navigate) which uses a dolly handle from harbor freight and some aluminum plate. I copied it while rebuilding my lift panels for my full hawk rebuild.

Swivel Handle for Wooden Dolly

Amazing deals on this Swivel Handle For Wooden Dolly at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[rubberlegs]

Is the aluminum plate stiff enough so you can push up the panel? That looks really simple.

 

[Smelly621]

I used 1/4" aluminum, it's very stiff. I did need to modify the handle and attachment bracket to get things hinged in the right plane and ensure clearance etc but it's all doable with a drill, angle grinder and some washers.

 

[Vic Harder]

That is a very nice and elegant solution. Thanks for posting!

 

[DesertDog]

I used 1/4" aluminum, it's very stiff. I did need to modify the handle and attachment bracket to get things hinged in the right plane and ensure clearance etc but it's all doable with a drill, angle grinder and some washers.

Wow, great design made better by using an inexpensive commercial item as the key element.

The design has the added advantage of increasing the length of the lever arm to the lower hinge. Do you find it is now easier to lift the top with this design?

 

[Vic Harder]

The design has the added advantage of increasing the length of the lever arm to the lower hinge. Do you find it is now easier to lift the top with this design?

The "lever arm" is NOT meant to be used to push the top up. It is only there to hold the top up by keeping the end panels hyper extended. So, there should be no difference in ease of lifting.

 

[DesertDog]

Must be my age and (short stature), but I can only lift the front about 1/2 way up by pushing it vertically and then I use the push bar to get it fully up. Increasing the length of the lever arm I'm pushing against has obvious advantages from my point of view as I'm willing to a trade longer push distance for less force.

 

[GflGdog]

Wow that is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

 

[Fresh]

I used 1/4" aluminum, it's very stiff. I did need to modify the handle and attachment bracket to get things hinged in the right plane and ensure clearance etc but it's all doable with a drill, angle grinder and some washers.

Did you cut that piece of aluminum to shape or was it already like that?

 

[Smelly621]

Did you cut that piece of aluminum to shape or was it already like that?

I cut it out with an angle grinder from a piece of 5.5" wide strap