FWC Eagle 120v outlet won’t work

[firsttracksbmax]

Hey all,

Did a whole bunch of digging today through the forums but I don’t think I’ve found my answer nor has anyone had this issue? Posting here to be sure as lots of this electrical is new to me.

Recently purchased an older 03 FWC Eagle and hooked it up to on shore power today to restore the old batteries and see how things worked. I know the two 120v outlets on the counter only work when hooked up to AC shore, however they refuse to work for me.

As in all the other forums on posts similar to this, I’ve done the following:

1) Breakers are on and not tripped, 12v plug is pulled out (on position)
2) There is a light for the GFIC switch on the outlet, but the buttons absolutely refuse to be pushed in to test or reset (even with screwdriver and a solid amount of force)
3) I replaced the 30A fuse on my DLS-30 Converter (don’t have IQ4) to no success
4) On shore power, extension chord, and 15A outlet on side of camper all work fine (my aux batteries were charging fine)

Am I missing something? The only thing that I can think of is I saw that Stan mentioned in another forum that two 30A fuses can go in the converter. Other forums say one. Mine only came with the one that I have already replaced out. I went and got another, as there is what seems to be another spot for a 30A, but the converter refuses to accept two fuses. Whenever I finally get two seated and tighten the screws, one flies back out. It is wildly frustrating.

Is this true that these DLS-30s should have two 30A fuses? My thought my missing one must be for the two outlets? I don’t think my converter has gone bad since it is definitely charging my batteries (went from low charge to fair).

I’m hoping it’s something silly obvious that I’m overlooking. Haven’t used voltmeter yet (though fridge works on AC) or gone down the loose wiring rabbit hole. Picture attached below showing where fuse(s?) go in. Thanks!

 

[pvstoy]

Try using a different ac outlet from your house. The one using mabe wired wrong. Goto have correct polarity for the GFIC to have responded properly pressing the buttons.

Need volt meter to see if you have ac power at outlets, any?

 

[firsttracksbmax]

Try using a different ac outlet from your house. The one using mabe wired wrong. Goto have correct polarity for the GFIC to have responded properly pressing the buttons.

Need volt meter to see if you have ac power at outlets, any?

changing outlets in my home doesn’t change the issue

 

[Vic Harder]

I wonder if pvstoy intended for you to try an outlet from your house because it is a known good unit. Meaning, uninstall the unit from your house and camper and swap them … or just go buy a new outlet to try in the camper.

 

[pvstoy]

Hey all,

Did a whole bunch of digging today through the forums but I don’t think I’ve found my answer nor has anyone had this issue? Posting here to be sure as lots of this electrical is new to me.

Recently purchased an older 03 FWC Eagle and hooked it up to on shore power today to restore the old batteries and see how things worked. I know the two 120v outlets on the counter only work when hooked up to AC shore, however they refuse to work for me.

As in all the other forums on posts similar to this, I’ve done the following:

1) Breakers are on and not tripped, 12v plug is pulled out (on position)
2) There is a light for the GFIC switch on the outlet, but the buttons absolutely refuse to be pushed in to test or reset (even with screwdriver and a solid amount of force)
3) I replaced the 30A fuse on my DLS-30 Converter (don’t have IQ4) to no success
4) On shore power, extension chord, and 15A outlet on side of camper all work fine (my aux batteries were charging fine)

Am I missing something? The only thing that I can think of is I saw that Stan mentioned in another forum that two 30A fuses can go in the converter. Other forums say one. Mine only came with the one that I have already replaced out. I went and got another, as there is what seems to be another spot for a 30A, but the converter refuses to accept two fuses. Whenever I finally get two seated and tighten the screws, one flies back out. It is wildly frustrating.

Is this true that these DLS-30s should have two 30A fuses? My thought my missing one must be for the two outlets? I don’t think my converter has gone bad since it is definitely charging my batteries (went from low charge to fair).

I’m hoping it’s something silly obvious that I’m overlooking. Haven’t used voltmeter yet (though fridge works on AC) or gone down the loose wiring rabbit hole. Picture attached below showing where fuse(s?) go in. Thanks!

I bolded some of your comments that are our only clues as to why the GFIC outlets on the counter are not working. Expand the above quoted post. Some random thoughts....

1) I believe that the 30 amp fuse on the Iota is for the 12 volt output to run the camper DC. The second 30 amp for the charging of the battery circuit?

2) What color is the light on the GFIC showing?

3) Those GFIC don't last forever, it was installed in 2003.

4) I would assume, as you say that the circuit breaker is on because your refrigerator is being powered by 120 volt ac current.

5) I have a GFIC tester that I can plug into a outlet and test wiring and button to trip GFIC to see if it works.

6) If your wiring for those AC outlets, counter and refrigerator, are on the same breaker then it could be:

A) The GFIC is worn out and needs to be replaced.
B,) The wiring to the GFIC is reversed and won't allow the GFIC to function properly. But will still allow the refrigerator to work.
C) Refrigerator works because it is wired before the GFIC outlet.
D) the extension cord pugged into the camper is coming from a residence outlet that is wired backwards.
E) the Iota AC output wires are wired incorrectly to the 120 volt AC breakers.

It is tough trying to figure out a used to you product as you don't know the history of what the previous owner did.