Half ton truck payload how to increase it?

[rruff]

I'd probably make sure you don't exceed axle ratings.

 

[ottorogers]

I think the OP is saying he has a newish 1/2T F-150, and is not interested in selling it. So, advice like Squatch's is right on. To summarize:

1) E-rated tires
2) Beefed up springs and/or Air bags
3) Keep it light
4) Sway bars
5) Different brake pads
6) Keep it light
7) Weigh before and after
8) Keep it light

I’m rated for 1600 with my Tundra, we have 2200 with no issues now, we did extra springs, air bags, sway bar and E rated tires, everything is perfect now

 

[Vic Harder]

I’m rated for 1600 with my Tundra, we have 2200 with no issues now, we did extra springs, air bags, sway bar and E rated tires, everything is perfect now

I recall seeing that separating the air bags helped a lot, but I missed what you did since then to get it to "perfect"?

Vic

 

[ottorogers]

I recall seeing that separating the air bags helped a lot, but I missed what you did since then to get it to "perfect"?

Vic

yes separating the airbags DID help

 

[kmcintyre]

I am a little biased as I have one and love it. Mini Diesel Colorado. 7000 lb towing. 396 ft lbs torque. Me and my eagle 12000 trip over 20mpg

I have the RAM 1500 EcoDiesel with an Eagle and get about the same mileage as Buckland and love it for the torque as Buckland does on his Colorado. Can't beat diesel for the power.

 

[Smokecreek1]

Years ago, we had a similar type thread on this subject [let me look for it and will post it later] ,(at the time ) I had problems with the ride and reversed dump look of my 99 F1504x4/05 Granby combination (it was with in the weight limits for both). I also tried upgrading to helwig heavy duty springs, tire pressure (10ply m/s) and even added new air bags (that kept blowing out). Les Schwab could not even figure out the problem. In desperation. I went to my local Ford dealer, where one of the old mechanics suggested that I upgrade to 3/4 type springs/rear end and he suggested that I call a blacksmith shop that they use in Red Bluff, Ca (Moore's Blacksmith Shop) that specialized in up grading 1/2 ton pick ups. It costs me $500.00 at that time, and it was the best 500.00 I ever spent. No more problems & all I do is make sure that during my annual maint. check at the ford place, that they check them to make sure they tightened up if it is needed. I'm not a mechanic, but what ever they did, things sure work better since then. I don't know if Moore's Blacksmith shop is still there, but if you are with in driving range of Red Bluff, It might be worth a call. Hope this helps.

Smoke

 

[klahanie]

This is not about increasing payload but I think worth mentioning here. ..

Maintenance is always good but becomes important when weight increases due to overloading.

Ensure your brake system is functioning 100%. I not talking about aftermarket slotted rotors or ceramic pads but the standard stuff like rotor surface, free piston travel, caliper slider pins, hoses etc. And brake fluid - use a high heat fluid and keep it fresh. Current truck brake systems are much better than before but only if working properly.

Whatever you have for tires, make sure they are in good condition and inflated properly. Be prepared to replace them when they get old not just worn out. Rubber does deteriorate, especially in the sun.

As for driving, don't overdrive your brakes. Vehicles are far more capable of, and at, higher speeds than before. The general public knows it and so drives faster and closer (older drivers may remember slowing down for corners, going up hills etc.).

Just make sure you can stop.

my .02

 

[Vic Harder]

+1 "Just make sure you can stop." And I will add the following:

1) How do you know you can stop? Have you tested it? Have you taken your fully loaded rig out on the kinds of roads you drive on and tried a panic stop under controlled (and safe) conditions?

2) It helps to be mechanically inclined to keep costs down, but I strongly recommend what David says above - that your brakes should receive loving care at least every two years. When I take my car to the track for some fast driving in controlled conditions, the organizers insist on a brake fluid change within the last 6 months!! As a rule of thumb, if your brake fluid is not clear or it has been longer than two years since a full flush, do it now.

 

[CougarCouple]

Hello boatbuilder79
I get you are asking, looking for ways to better travel with a maxed out rig. Not looking to change rigs. There are IMO very good ideas and suggestions on ways to help in your travels, in the responses. If you use a vehicle at its max limits, that's what it is nothing more or less. Would seem to me everything is going to wear faster, than just tooling around empty. I did not see where you mentioned how often or far you would drive loaded. I think that would play a big role in your situation. Would a larger payload vehicle do it easier, yes. Can you travel to you destinations a little over yes. Pick the suggestions you feel best with there is no wrong answer, you already know you are at your limits. Breaks, tires they are wear items.
Biggest problem is being legal, only an issue when something goes wrong.
You gunna be on the road, full time or traveling cross country I'd reconsider. Weekend jaunt to recreate go for it. Pleanty other people in the same situation. Trying to swing the odds in your favor, for safety and comfort is better than going on a wing and a prayer.

Also if you can travel w/o the water food beverages, fuel in the boat, until you get to or near your destination might help. Good thread I liked the read.

Russ

 

[ottorogers]

+1 "Just make sure you can stop." And I will add the following:

1) How do you know you can stop? Have you tested it? Have you taken your fully loaded rig out on the kinds of roads you drive on and tried a panic stop under controlled (and safe) conditions?

2) It helps to be mechanically inclined to keep costs down, but I strongly recommend what David says above - that your brakes should receive loving care at least every two years. When I take my car to the track for some fast driving in controlled conditions, the organizers insist on a brake fluid change within the last 6 months!! As a rule of thumb, if your brake fluid is not clear or it has been longer than two years since a full flush, do it now.

i agree with this advise

 

[Timothy McGowen]

I have a 2016 F150 Supercab, Lariat, 4X4 (Not FX4) with 36 gallon gas tank, 2.7 L ecoboost and the 2.7L payload package and stock tires. Camper is a 2016 Hawk front dinette with heater, water heater, 130L 2 way fridge, batwing, cassette toilet, dual battery and solar.

Payload on the truck is rated at 1899 pounds. I don't have my weigh bill handy but the camper is approximately 1500 pounds dry.

The camper has never been off the truck since it was installed almost two years ago.

With the camper dry it drives, stops and handles fine. Wet, I do notice a little sway. It is minor and I have not bothered to make and upgrades to the truck. Airing the tires from the recommended 35 pounds to 45 psi seems to help. I have ordered new tires and will see if that helps the sway at all. I do need to re-weigh and will try to do that this week.

With your set up I think you should be fine. What tires do you have? They probably are light truck, E- rated tires. The Wranglers on mine do not have the standard labels or markings you would expect. I had to do some research and have the dealer help me figure that out.

Sorry I don't tow. I'm one of those guys you and your buddy laugh at. Hope this helps with some more practical, related experience.

BTW, I custom ordered my truck to max payload and MPG. As rated in the charts everyone is referencing it states payload of 2160. As built 1899. Options do matter. Many specs are based on regular cab/short bed models.

 

[ntsqd]

+eleventeen on flushing brake fluid every two years, MAX.

Just doing this will keep the hydraulic components much happier and they will live longer because of it. I bought a vehicle from the PNW that had silicone fluid in it. On the surface that seems like a great idea for a vehicle that sits in a high moisture environment. From first hand experience I can tell that it is not. Regular fluid absorbs moisture, which keeps it from pooling and corroding in ALL of the low spots in the system. Regular flushes remove the moisture. This is by design.

I had to replace a bunch of parts and flush the silicone fluid from the system. I built a vacuum fluid trap and used engine intake vacuum to first pull rubbing alcohol thru the whole system, and then several complete flushes with DOT 4 brake fluid.

In 1978 my grandfather bought a 1973 F-100 that he wanted to use to tow their 26' Airstream trailer. After a couple close calls and several failed rear axle wheel bearings he found a '74 F-250 in a nearby farmer's 'boneyard' and got all of the 3/4t front brakes and the 3/4t rear axle. He left the 1/2t springs under the truck, but used the 3/4t brakes & rear axle. That was the end of rear wheel bearing failures and the truck stopped very well considering.

"Hopping up" 1/2t systems just means that you're using them much closer to the outer edge of their design envelope. In doing this you are creating a vehicle that needs much more consistent and frequent service and inspection. For the sustained effort involved you may as well build and maintain a race car. Makes more sense to use 3/4t or even 1t components and use them in the middle of their design envelope.

 

[Squatch]

TM you probably have c rated LT tires on a 1/2 ton. E's don't usually happen stock till 3/4 ton or more. Most 1/2 tons these days come with P metric passenger tires. If they don't say LT as part of the tire size that's what they are. Going up to E's will make a huge difference in sway.

 

[Timothy McGowen]

TM you probably have c rated LT tires on a 1/2 ton. E's don't usually happen stock till 3/4 ton or more. Most 1/2 tons these days come with P metric passenger tires. If they don't say LT as part of the tire size that's what they are. Going up to E's will make a huge difference in sway.

Thanks. I was wondering since I asked when I got the truck. They said they were E rated since I ordered the payload package. Live and learn.

 

[saltydogs]

I’m rated for 1600 with my Tundra, we have 2200 with no issues now, we did extra springs, air bags, sway bar and E rated tires, everything is perfect now

I too have a Tundra (2020 gen 2 DC) and did some upgrades to handle the payload better. I have e rated tires, TeraFlex Falcon 2-1/2” adjustable shocks front/rear, Ride Rite airbags with daystar cradles and sway bar. Does pretty well with the camper on, but I’m mulling over doing a leaf upgrade also. I did NOT do a leaf change or helper springs such as hellwig, etc. what spring upgrade did you end up doing? Thanks!

 

[buckland]

Howdy. I have a Colorado with an Eagle. I started out just adding a leaf and Firestone Air bags. We do serious dirt road travel across Labrador and The Yukon etc. The add a leaf and bags (Tho I will say air bags are great for leveling side to side) were not the best match. Too much play. On our trip back from Alaska I went to Boise Spring Works and had them install a new pack of leaf springs... Oh My what a difference. Camper on the truck full time now and it is 8 years still a great ride. Takes all the worry out. Which is what it should be. Set it up then enjoy!

 

[pods8]

I too have a Tundra (2020 gen 2 DC) and did some upgrades to handle the payload better. I have e rated tires, TeraFlex Falcon 2-1/2” adjustable shocks front/rear, Ride Rite airbags with daystar cradles and sway bar. Does pretty well with the camper on, but I’m mulling over doing a leaf upgrade also. I did NOT do a leaf change or helper springs such as hellwig, etc. what spring upgrade did you end up doing? Thanks!

Heads up but you replied to a comment ~7yrs old and asked a question to a user who hasn't logged in for over 5yrs so you might not get a response from them.

 

[Starbrightsteve]

I’m going to suggest something completely different. I think you should do whatever you want to do. But… don’t spend too much on mods and gadgets, just keep it cheap! All those mods or even a heavier truck can really hit the wallet hard. Load that truck you have with whatever you want and hitch the trailer and go! Keep your fingers crossed and so will I .

 

[fuzzymarindave]

I really do not see a 3/4 ton diesel in my future.

My 2015 truck will be paid off in 18 months and I would rather sleep in a tent or use air b&b than have another truck payment.

If I get a 1000 pound camper
And 500 pounds of camping gear
And 500 pounds of people
And 500 pounds of trailer toung weight

That would put me 525 pounds over the payload limit of my the truck but still well under the combined weight limit for the truck and trailer.

I am figuring this with a full 80 gallon tank of gas in the boat and a 10 percent trailer toung weight.

I could put all our stuff in the boat and not put gas in the boat till I get there and be right at the payload limit.

I did the F150 thing for a while but ultimately went with a used 2008 F250. With my kids riding along I did not want to risk any failures; of which the two I was concerned were 1) inadequate braking when needed; and, 2) axle failure since part of the weight rests on the semi float rear axle. That said, now I am mostly solo and I'm periodically wondering if I could make the switch to higher capacity F150.