Help with wiring (connect / disconnector) to camper/truck

[kmcintyre]

Ok, I'm a new owner and just brought home a 2001 Eagle. Don't you just love us new guys? I've searched around a bit through the forum but couldn't find what I'm searching an answer for.


There are obviously a few things that need to be fixed, replaced, etc. and I'll start with the first question I have since it's the easiest (maybe).

Since I'll be putting this on and off my truck every once in a while, I would like to put some electrical "Quick connectors/disconnectors" on the wiring that was original from 2001. I pulled all the relays, etc. so I have everything that was used back then. It was hardwired and on the truck from the orig. install in 2001!

So, to my question (there will be more ) what's the best thing to use so I can quickly connect and disconntect the camper from the truck? I will run the wires up to the bed of the truck and add this connector to the wires at the camper and just store them near the wheel well? It looks like there are 3 sets of wires (one goes from the aux battery over to the appliances, one leads up to the engine battery (with relay, etc.) and one went ??? (could be ground) (I don't remember). So I'm dealing with 2 sets of wires that go through the bed and maybe 6 wires?

This camper has the old crank vent and I'll want to replace it with a fantastic fan but I'm not sure if there are wires up there.

Thanks for the help

Thanks.

Kevin

 

[ntsqd]

I've posted a pic somewhere of the Anderson connector that I used for the large gauge wires that charge our camper's batteries. Don't recall the thread title, but some of the discussion was about voltage drop to the camper battery(ies).

If the rest of the wires are for lights I would use a std. trailer light socket and plug. If they are not I would use a weatherpack connector pair with the required number of contacts.

 

[kmcintyre]

Thanks! I think I've found that thread among others now.

Kevin

 

[Espresso]

I have a 2002 Grandby and I asked Tom about this at the Sugarloaf Rally. I have a Fantastic Fan frame but not the motor and blades. He said the wires are there, but shouldn't remove the existing frame because it can be very difficult to seal the frame. Instead, remove the fan components from the new FF and install them in the existing frame.


That's about as good an explanation as I can provide given I haven't done the installation.

 

[pods8]

I have done the fan internal swap, gotta switch the lid usually too but the frame stays which is nice.

The make small housing power poles which can be used for the smaller connections if desired.

 

[camelracer]

My camper came from the factory with a MARINCO trolling motor connector. This is a 3 pole connector but only 2 poles were used - 12 volt and ground.

 

[AK Nomad]

Like camelracer said, FWCs come with the MARINCO plug and receptacle.

I have only 2 wires that run from the truck through the MARINCO plug to the camper. They are positive (fused) and negative from the truck battery to the battery isolator (instead of relays) in the camper. The auxillary (camper) battery is located inside the camper. I believe this is the typical factory FWC arrangement. Sounds like yours might have been modified.

You can pull the trim piece down from the inside of the vent and check for wires there.

 

[Riverrunner]

Yeah the Marinco shown above is the typical FWC deal which is an oddity for RV's. When I got mine I was going to just use the 7 prong RV style plug since I already had that in my truck bed. Stan said it would work fine but they perfer the "FWC way". I went ahead and had them do the "FWC way" so I now have two plugs in my bed. The "FWC way" does include a battery isolator which is a good thing I suppose. Had I not been at the factory I'da just used the 7 prong. my 2 cents...