High Rock Canyon to beyond, Part III

[Lighthawk]

High Rock Canyon to beyond, Part III

Episodes: Black Rock Desert to Soldier Meadows, Part I and Soldier Meadows to High Rock Canyon, Part II are available here.

The next morning brought us mixed sun and clouds with brush bejeweled
with water droplets in the early light. The air was clear and fresh. I took a quick walk to the wet pasture above us and spotted a hunting northern harrier working from an old corral across the meadow.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-qcrccWV/A


They are incredibly aerodynamic when not bobbing and weaving, almost bullet shaped.
https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-xGSLxWs/A

What you looking at?
https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-JVsmnX9/A

We took a morning walk, along an old wagon trail skirting Mahogany Creek.
An old outhouse lay on it's side in the meadow.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-rwdc5Zf/A

Mud, an inch or more thick, quickly collected on our boots in the wet volcanic soil.
Vultures were rising on the warming air in front of the cliffs.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-P7t69QS/A


The area is full of caves, and we found more along the south facing cliffs of Mahogany Creek. Several springs kept the meadows flooded. Pools of water were nearby in deep isolated pockets.

Somebody had done a fair amount of excavation along the base of the overhanging cliffs. Hopefully it was done for research and not personal benefit.

The cliffs had numerous mud swallow nests which were unoccupied. One can imagine the air show in the springtime! Perhaps these cliffs offered shelter and fresh nesting birds, along with water and game to the indigenous tribes.
https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-VBnQhRZ/A


We were on the lookout for bighorn sheep but had seen only a few bands of horses and then this lone burro. It still startled us, when we looked up.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-9HTR97H/A

Our cattle dog, Callie was in her element in a wet pasture with fresh cowpies and mud.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-M3bqXfV/A

Walking back to camp there was a large bull standing in our way. Callie did very well, responding to voice command to stick with me and not charge. We skirted the cattle and chased them down the arroyo away from the truck with our presence.

We were giving Callie a little Zodi spritz down before being let inside the truck later when Guy in Yellow Jeep showed up in camp. His little dog yapped out the window. It was a dead end for him, so he backed up to leave. He was very polite and took a few photos then left us to ourselves. We would see him again down the road.



A MYSTERY:
We were camped in a small gulch, with a deep pool of water above us at an old ford. I spotted a strange assortment of metal pipe and fittings sticking out of the dirt bank near camp.

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-cLwGKzB/A

Who would haul all this pipe up here? And what were they plumbing?
We were in High Rock Creek, litterally in the creek bottom. Perhaps there was a dwelling that could pump water.

"Conlon Camp"

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-K8wPDJH/A



Our next stretch of road leads through this notch!
To be continued . . .

https://www.lighthawkphoto.com/Pers...ber-Black-Rock-to-Surprise-Valley/i-hmpJrz5/A

 

[craig333]

Looks like we showed up just after you were there. Trip report upcoming.

 

[Lighthawk]

Part III, High Rock Canyon and Beyond continued.
Last episode

After leaving Conlon Camp we crossed over the infamous section of white rock where the ruts of the wagon wheels are still visible today. There are trails, now blocked running up the ridge at the crest, which would be tempting another time for a hike. I enjoyed putting the RAM 8 speed into four wheel low for virtually brake-free steep descent.

We entered the tight notch before Pole Canyon. I didn't take any photos of the wall of willows on the left, and the rock wall on the right. Mirrors were folded back. Deep sections of water continued for forty or more feet and a large pyramid shaped rock was in the path. More pinstripes ensued.

We contined to Pole Camp, which was rather exposed. Chunks of obsidian littered the site and a nearby rock knob showed evidence of being a hunting blind, then later was used as a barbwire fence anchor, and now is just a nearby attraction to a BLM campiste. Chips of obsidian lay everywhere. We would like to take a walk up Pole Canyon another time.

We continued down canyon.



A lone chukar got me out of the truck to check the next water crossing.



The rain saturated the colors of the lichens and the soft light increased the saturated colors.









We arrived at "Garage Camp" as Guy with Yellow Jeep was leaving. I chatted with him a bit before he left. He said he was out early in the morning and the roads were really sticky mud.





The scenery was spectacular with the yellow rock band beginning to show.




Tip o' the hat to Ansel





To be continued at Stevens Camp....

 

[Lighthawk]

A final wrap up of High Rock Canyon and Beyond

We were traveling west towards Stevens Camp when we came upon a fellow in an unmarked SxS Kawasaki. He looked sort of official, although he had no insignia on his shirt. I asked if he was BLM, and he said he was a volunteer now. He was working out of Cedar City, and previously Gerlach doing survey work for the dozen or so official wilderness areas.

He was working with two other guys in similar SxS rigs. They seemed to be setting up transmitters. I'm not a surveyor, so it's more of a guess what this is.



The road continued to be very brushy, and we had our mirrors folded back. I must have sensed something behind me, and said I felt blind without my mirrors. I remembered I could turn on my backup camera and when I did there were our two BLM rigs right behind me! The next hundred yards were incredibly rough bouncy terrain. I flipped my mirror out on a wider spot and made eye contact with the guys behind. They waived me ahead and I kept going until I could get out of their way.

The terrain kept changing as we left the canyon behind. These blocky formations caught my eye.




We made it to Steven's Camp. Surprised by the water crossing and rougher road. It's a tidy cinderblock building with a gas stove, water heater, wood stove, shower annex and two bedrooms. I think you have to bring your own propane bottle. There's running water from a spring. There's a bunch of pipe corrals out back for the equestrian crowd. We ate lunch on their picnic table and had the place to ourselves.



We may have missed the road that goes through the camp and up the canyon.
Instead we poked around down by the creek and added this hike to our wish list. My foot was still very tender and I wasn't hiking anywhere soon.




We went back out to the main road where the BLM boys had left their trucks and trailers parked. We continued west until we hit another fork. It appeared we were at Grassy Ranch, and it could be possible to head south a long ways to Antelope Flat where we would be back to 34 south of Via. Instead, we were trying to reach Massacre Ranch and 8A to the north.

We stopped and studied our maps. Either we could double back to Steven's Camp and continue past the corrals, or we could try a shortcut from Grassy Ranch to the top of High Rock Canyon. You just know we took the short cut!

At times the double track became fainter, but we persevered and reconnected with the road from Stevens to Massacre. It was a big empty space out there, and I was glad I had an extra 5 gallons of gas on the back.





A lone horse watched our progress



At last we made it to 8A where BLM has a nice set of plaques celebrating some of the darkest skies in the Lower 48.
We had opened and shut two gates to pass through Massacre Ranch which seemed to be occupied.

We arrived in Surprise Valley, looked west at the Warner Mountains in the afternoon light.



Emerson Peak still had a bit of snow from the storm.




We had booked two nights (a minimum) to stay at the Surprise Valley Hot Spring resort. The rooms are basic, but adequate. The hot water taps deserve respect, and it was critical to adjust the shower before entered to avoid being scalded. Each unit has a fenced back patio with an inground soaking pool. A quarter mile away clouds of billowing steam could be seen in the pasture. Warm ponds ring the resort and the canada geese are pooping everywhere. The place was very quiet on Sunday and Monday.



White crowned sparrows were enjoying the morning light.



Don't know this one, unless it's a female white crowned sparrow.



We visited Emerson trailhead south by Eagleville and SR got to practice putting the truck into 4wd and downshifting the steep grades. It was very nice to be up in the pine forests again. Again, I was in no shape to hike, but there's a nice trail there. One other truck was in the parking area.

The drive home was uneventful. We chose to avoid 395 from Alturas to Reno and opted for Nevada route 34 from Via back to Gerlach. Another high speed Nevada gravel road took us past the Lund Petrified "Forest" which was two logs inside a chainlink cage. We passed the infamous Fly Ranch with it's manmade geyser, and returned to the playa for one more tour, entering at 12 mile access and leaving at 3 mile access.



Hope you enjoyed the tour!

 

[fuzzymarindave]

Great report. I always have wanted to visit Surprise Valley and Warner Mountains. I once worked with a fellow who grew up in Cedarville and he told me a lot of stories.

 

[ski3pin]

Very, very nice Andy! Your route was delightful to follow along on. Yes, the maps are spread out along with many notes I have on the area. Thanks for sharing your fine adventure!

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks Andy,yes your tour was very enjoyable.
Beautiful country.

Thanks for taking the time to share.
Frank

 

[goinoregon]

excellent trip report, and great pics !

 

[Lighthawk]

Very, very nice Andy! Your route was delightful to follow along on. Yes, the maps are spread out along with many notes I have on the area. Thanks for sharing your fine adventure!

If I've got you looking at maps, I know I've done well to repay the favor.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

Great report, thanks for taking us along.

 

[CraggyMan]

Hey Andy - thanks for the tour! Karen and I are hoping to do this route in mid-Oct for her annual birthday trip. 2 nights at Surprise Valley HS are booked with our daughter and friends joining for the celebration. Hoping to do your trip in reverse weather permitting. Cheers - Jim

 

[Smokecreek1]

This sure brings back allot of memories Andy! See I was not kidding about that place. You guys can see now why I spent most of my BLM career working in that area. Transferred to the old Susanville District in 1980 and never left. Stevens camp was my second home for a few years when I was so lucky to be part of the crew who did the inventories, show me tours, meetings and write ups that helped to make that area an NCA and now part of the High Rock-Black Rock Desert Complex. Me and my dog "Wolfer" got to camp in Conlon Camp with all the mice before it was cleaned up! Then there is "Franks Road"-the worst road I ever drove on-I understand it is closed now! There are lots of stories from those days-a few of them were repeated here as parts of many discussions about that country. I have not been back there since in 30 years, could be time to go back. Thanks again, for the TR.

Smoke