I'm a noob (electrical)

[DirtyDog]

On my last trip I stayed at an RV park and decided for the first time that I wanted to plugin and have some power to charge my laptop. I plugged the cable into the jack at the RV spot but had no power at the outlet in the camper.

Not even sure what to ask here - what could I possible have done wrong? I double checked that the fuse to my RV spot was on and it was.

 

[Mark W. Ingalls]

Our Hawk had a 15A breaker inside the cabinet. If you have one, is it on?

 

[pods8]

Yeah my 99 goes like this: External source plug -> breaker box w/ 15a breaker -> GFCI plug on counter -> fridge plug in fridge cabinet.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Hey Dirty Dog

Here are a few things you can try ...

1. Make sure the campground outlet has power to it. Sometimes the power boxes at campgrounds have a small GFIC reset switch on them because the plug is outside in the elements all year. Check and reset if needed.

2. Plug your 30amp black camper cord into the campground 30amp outlet, or use the small adaptor, and plug the cord into the regular "house" type outlet the campground offers.

3. Make sure all of the circut breakers are "on" inside the camper fuse box (see picture below). The fuse box will be located on the lower / front of your kitchen cabinets.

4. Check and reset the GFCI on the plug that is installed on your camper kitchen cabinets (the 110/120V "house" type outlet). Im not sure what your 110/120v outlet looks like, but most of the new ones we are using these days have a very small "red light" on the front of the outlet that will light up if the plug has power coming in to it. This makes it easier to know if the plug is "live" with electricity.

5. If you have tried all of this, most likely the fuse on your power converter is blown for some reason. The 30amp power converter has 1 or 2 fuses on the bottom of it. They usually have the greem 30amp square automotive fuses in them. Once you change them out, you should be good to go.

To change the power converter fuses, reach under cabinets or remove the vent cover on the front of the cabinets. Remove (or loosen) the small set screws between the green 30a fuses. If you don't loosen the set screws, those fuses won't come out !! Take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull out the 30a fuses. Put new fuses in. Even if the fuses look good, just go ahead and replece them. Trust me on this one. Since you have gone to the trouble of getting the fuses out, just go ahead and changes them with new 30a fuses just for the heck of it. We have seen fuses that looks good, but when tested didn't work.

This should solve the problem. The 110/120v power system in the campers is pretty easy to work with most of the time.

If all of the above fails, please give Chicali a call in our serivce dept. so we can get you squared away (FWC SERVICE = 800-242-1442).

Thanks


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On my last trip I stayed at an RV park and decided for the first time that I wanted to plugin and have some power to charge my laptop. I plugged the cable into the jack at the RV spot but had no power at the outlet in the camper.

 

[Mark W. Ingalls]

So?

What happened?

 

[DirtyDog]

I haven't been able to follow up on this yet. Thanks Stan I'll check that out.

Another thing I'm confused about are the amps - FWC is 30 amps but the outlets at the RV park (there were two options) were different amperages than 30. I asked an RVer whether that would be a problem (I believe I was in a 50 amp but now I can't remember) and he said no.

So does it need to be 30 amps or are there options there?

 

[pods8]

I haven't been able to follow up on this yet. Thanks Stan I'll check that out.

Another thing I'm confused about are the amps - FWC is 30 amps but the outlets at the RV park (there were two options) were different amperages than 30. I asked an RVer whether that would be a problem (I believe I was in a 50 amp but now I can't remember) and he said no.

So does it need to be 30 amps or are there options there?

Looks like the new FWC electrical allows a 30 amp feed (I assume 120V) and then runs two 15amp branch circuits. You'll want whatever electrical cord you run from your power source to the camper to be rated for that 30amps (even though I doubt you'll ever pull that much unless you are running space heaters, hair dryers, etc.). I don't know the specifics on that 50amp campground connection but assuming its 120V and not 220V (if it is you can likely connect/load half the circuit with the right adapters) you should be able to connect up to it because that 30A breaker in the FWC will prevent you from drawing over 30A. If the campground plug is rated for something like 15A or such you can connect to it and your FWC electrical wiring will be fine but there is the potential of overloading the campground box (it should have its own circuit breaker protection but again I'm not familiar with them to even know if you'd have rapid access to it to reset it or if would be located in some main panel in the campground).

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Hey Dirty Dog

It would be best to find the regular "house looking" outlet, or ...

find the 30amp plug that will match the plug on your camper.

I haven't seen any RV parks that didn't have one of those 2 options to be able to plug in your camper.


DO NOT USE A 220V VOLT PLUG (this looks very similar to the wierd 3 prong 30amp plug that comes with the camper).

But probably not to worry though. I don't thnk the typical RV park (at the small junction box at your campsite) would have a 220v outlet.

Probably not a good idea to use the 50amp plug either. I'm not familar with the 50amp plug, but best to stay away from it just in case. CampingWorld has some pictures of 30amp and 50amp plug, and I'm thinking the 50amp service has 4 prongs, so you might not even be able to plug the FWC extension cord into a 50 amp outlet ?

(see picture below)


The 30amp plug still uses the standard 110/120v electricity we are all used to here in the USA, but I guess is has more juice running through it in case RV'ers are running microwaves, air conditioners, etc.

Hope this helps.

Les us know what you find out ?

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I haven't been able to follow up on this yet. Thanks Stan I'll check that out.

Another thing I'm confused about are the amps - FWC is 30 amps but the outlets at the RV park (there were two options) were different amperages than 30. I asked an RVer whether that would be a problem (I believe I was in a 50 amp but now I can't remember) and he said no.

So does it need to be 30 amps or are there options there?

 

[pods8]

Looking at that 4 prong 50A plug I'd have to assume its 220 (ground, two 120V feeds, and a shared neutral). They likely make an adaptor that connects the 50A plug to a 30A rv (one leg of the 220V wouldn't be connected thus you would have a single 50A 120V feed). The FWC camper wiring after the 30A breaker would be protected in this case but there could be some exposure if an short occurred in the wiring between the external FWC plug and the breaker depending on the wire gauge used. Stan is that FWC plug 10ga or larger? You need 10ga for 30A and 6ga for 50A in 120V service. Thus if its 6ga there shouldn't be any weak link, however if its 10ga there is that one in a million chance that a short before the breaker causes a 40A draw that wouldn't trip the breaker but would cause the wire to cook itself and potentially cause a fire.

 

[DirtyDog]

I've been busy getting ready for the pig trip and I leave in the morning. I'll have to follow up on this when I get back.

 

[sjv]

I've been busy getting ready for the pig trip and I leave in the morning. I'll have to follow up on this when I get back.

Does the Shelter Cove Campground have electrical hookups? If there is no hookups, someone may have a generator with them? I bet someone can help you with this there.

I"m pretty sure the 50A connector is basically 220V, which gives you two 25A 110V circuits. You don't really want to carry 50A through a single circuit unless you are using really large wire! It would be best to stay clear of 50A sockets unless you have the proper adapter.

-steve

 

[pods8]

I"m pretty sure the 50A connector is basically 220V, which gives you two 25A 110V circuits.

This conversion between 220/110 is NOT correct, the amperage stay the same and only the voltage changes. I would be very bad to get this tidbit mixed up. A "X" amp 220 feed is comprised of two (2) "X" amp 110 feeds. Or the other way to look at it is you can get two (2) "X" amp feeds from a "X" amp 220 feed.

 

[sjv]

This conversion between 220/110 is NOT correct, the amperage stay the same and only the voltage changes. I would be very bad to get this tidbit mixed up. A "X" amp 220 feed is comprised of two (2) "X" amp 110 feeds. Or the other way to look at it is you can get two (2) "X" amp feeds from a "X" amp 220 feed.

You are correct of course. The 50A (at 110V) plug as really a 25A 220V plug giving you two 25A 110V feeds. Once you go much beyond 30A at 110V, you really need to split that into more than one feed, which is what the 50A sockets do.

-steve

 

[chnlisle]

Or as Im fond of saying ... HUH?

 

[pods8]

You are correct of course. The 50A (at 110V) plug as really a 25A 220V plug giving you two 25A 110V feeds. Once you go much beyond 30A at 110V, you really need to split that into more than one feed, which is what the 50A sockets do.

-steve

This is a sticky situations on naming verse reality. I'm under the impression a "50A RV Plug" is a 50A @ 220V circuit and some quick googling seems to back that up, this is the first time I've ever seen it referred to as 25A @ 220V. If I am correct then you are looking at 50A @ 220V or two (2) 50A @ 110V. If your assumption on that naming is correct its the 25A @ 220V or two (2) 25A @ 110V. Either way it should be clear now to readers (I hope) how 220 amp ratings convert to 110 amp ratings and hot legs. (Edit: If someone is confused let me know, I'm moderately proficient at AC wiring, we just need to get ironed out what is coming out of that RV hook up).

Now all that has to be sorted out is if a "50A RV plug" is 50A @ 220V or 25A @ 220V. You have an reference for the 25A situation?

Once you go much beyond 30A at 110V, you really need to split that into more than one feed

By the way you don't actually NEED to use 220V (or higher voltages) its just more efficient to get the watts at lower amperage. Some thing rated 50A is 50A period whether its 110V or 220V. Where the different comes into play is if only a wattage is listed. If something took 5500watts that would be 50A of 110 (5500watts/110V=50A) or 25A of 220V (5500watts/220V=25A).

 

[sjv]

Now all that has to be sorted out is it a "50A RV plug" is 50A @ 220V or 25A @ 220V. You have an reference for the 25A situation?

I don't have a reference, but pulling 50A at 220V though a hot pluggable connector does not sound like a good plan to me! That's a lot of energy to disrupt, especially if this energy is powering inductive loads like an A/C. I can easily see layman's websites getting the terminology wrong. I admit, I could be wrong, too. I'm an EE, not an expert on 50A RV plugs as I have nothing that uses that. I'll look around as my curiosity is piqued!

-steve

 

[pods8]

Here they are listing at 50A dual pole service (220V). Looks like they use circuit breakers in the panel which would allow you to kill the power before plug/unplugging the electrical connection, thus making it a safer deal.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-power-cords/multi-outlet-power-box.htm

This multiple outlet power box provides electrical receptacles in a single enclosure for RVs. The rainproof enclosure features unique cover design which allows cord to be used when door is closed. Safe and easy to install. 80A, 120/240V, TT-30R, 5-20R2 GR and 14-50R NEMA receptacles. 20A-1pole, 30A-1 pole and 50A-2 pole circuit protection. 13-7/8"H x 10-3/8"W x 4-3/4"D.

This power outlet box contains one of each:

* 50 amp, 250 volt receptacle
* 30 amp, 125 volt receptacle
* 20 amp, 125 volt duplex receptacle
* 2 pole, 50 amp circuit breaker
* 1 pole, 30 amp circuit breaker
* 1 pole, 20 amp circuit breaker

 

[sjv]

Here they are listing at 50A dual pole service (220V). Looks like they use circuit breakers in the panel which would allow you to kill the power before plug/unplugging the electrical connection, thus making it a safer deal.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-power-cords/multi-outlet-power-box.htm

I think you may be right. Everywhere I read shows that each leg of the 50A socket can support 50A. That's 10KW of power! Wow! I think my old house had 50A service to it.

Anyone have a pop-up camper that requires 50A service?

-steve

 

[pods8]

I think you may be right. Everywhere I read shows that each leg of the 50A socket can support 50A. That's 10KW of power! Wow! I think my old house had 50A service to it.

Anyone have a pop-up camper that requires 50A service?

-steve

Haha, yeah but consider a modern day electric range requires that same 50A service.

Its seems like a lot of juice till you start seeing how much stuff is in some of those big diesel motor coaches and such: AC (sometimes dual), washer/dryer!, entertainment systems, etc. Apparently their needs/desires has prompted certain campgrounds to actually comply with this kind of power hook up.

 

[mtn-high]

I have no experience with powering an RV, but I do know that in the realm of indoor growing using High Intensity Discharge lamps (HID) you should never exceed 80% of the amps the breaker has to offer. (unless you want to burn the playhouse down)

be safe,

mtn