Lithium Upgrade and Interface w/ Iota DLS-30 IQ4

[slosquirrel]

The AC feed for the IOTA comes directly from the breaker labeled "converter" on the Blue sea breaker panel. The DC feeds go to a bus bar (neg) and the to the load side of the main kill switch (pos). There's really no need at all to replace the IOTA with the victron unit unless that is your main source of charging. No need to pull the entire cabinet apart though, in either case.

Your time is WAY better spent fishing, talking about fishing, or planning to go fishing.

KP, That's been the "Black Box" in this whole system for me. I get that it feeds Iota feeds 120v to my two way fridge and the outlet in my camper, but didn't understand how it tied into the rest of the 12v system. Sounds like it just "charges" the battery then the battery provides the 12v correct?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

The AC feed for the IOTA comes directly from the breaker labeled "converter" on the Blue sea breaker panel. The DC feeds go to a bus bar (neg) and the to the load side of the main kill switch (pos). There's really no need at all to replace the IOTA with the victron unit unless that is your main source of charging. No need to pull the entire cabinet apart though, in either case.

Your time is WAY better spent fishing, talking about fishing, or planning to go fishing.

 

[slosquirrel]

Thank you Sagebrush, I'll take my time to read it a bit closer next time!

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

No problem, I missed it the first time I read it.

 

[Vic Harder]

Craig,

Very helpful. I'm hoping to not put too much weight up there, but def want to increase my wattage. Was looking at the Bouge RV 200w semi-flexible panel:

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CP29YQC...COPNOU6VM&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

It's similar dimension to my Overland Solar Panel, I could likely reuse my existing frame with limited mods, and it weighs nothing.

I also might just bite the bullet and find the largest rigid panel I can fit between my roof vents.

flexible panels are designed to be used on boat biminis - the canvas tent over the pilot. They are light, flexible and everything else is compromised (longevity, reliability, power output) to achieve that. Rigid panels are designed to optimize power and longevity, and weight is the sacrifice that has to be made.

Putting a flexible panel on your roof means that you are OK with the compromises.

 

[Timothy McGowen]

I'm working on a similar upgrade to my 2016 Hawk front dinette. I am a little confused as to if I can upgrade my IOTA DLS-30 IQ4 to charge lithium or not. The IOTA website is as clear as mud. They have the plug in box to convert to lithium yet since this is an "IQ-4" model I thought it was "built in" and not available on this model. Upon inspection, I can feel the port next to the fan where you would plug it in.

Does anyone know for sure or have tried it? I have not had much success finding documentation for the "DLS-30 IQ4" model.

 

[ckent323]

slosquirrel,

The attraction of semi flexible panels is undeniable. However, I think there are still serious longvity issues for most of them, particularly those that are low in cost.

Further, even a good semiflexible panel needs to be mounted so that the heat can be removed from the underside - all solar panels get hot and if the heat is not removed they get very hot. That heat breaks down the encapsulants and adhesives significantly shortening the life of the panel. Air spacing of about 1 inch or more works but many people adhere them directly to a surface such as the roof of their camper.

Be advised that only specifically designed thermally conductive adhesive should be used. Most consumer available (over the counter) adhesives do not conduct heat. Similarly most paints are poor conductors of heat unless specially formulated to conduct heat. So even if you have white paint on an aluminum skin, if the solar panel is adhered to it, it will not necessarily do a good job conducting heat away from the solar panel. Using a typical non-coducting adhesive makes the issue worse.

No surprise so many semi flexible panels fail after only a few years.

I hope this is helpful.

Regards,

Craig

 

[ckent323]

Vic,

I had semi-flexible solar panels on a boat in Morro Bay California. Marine grade solar panels are much more expensive because they are made with materials and processes that will stand up to the very harsh marine environment of sun and very corrosive salt vapor. Typical RV or residential type panels of any kind tend to degrade in a marine environment much more quickly by comparison.

Adhering marine grade panels to a surface in a way that does not conduct heat away leads to the same problem of "cooking" the panel as happens in RV applications. It is very important to mount any solar panel in a way that the heat can be removed from them such as an air gap or adhered to a conducting surface with temperature conducting adhesive. Otherwise premature failure is likely.

 

[Vic Harder]

https://www.batterystuff.com/files/1139-iq-4.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOooWG_WIzex-GT_jOIKXqW9Y-Y0XX6nykW4F1tRzbkCwncg5rEqh

 

[kmcintyre]

I'm working on a similar upgrade to my 2016 Hawk front dinette. I am a little confused as to if I can upgrade my IOTA DLS-30 IQ4 to charge lithium or not. The IOTA website is as clear as mud. They have the plug in box to convert to lithium yet since this is an "IQ-4" model I thought it was "built in" and not available on this model. Upon inspection, I can feel the port next to the fan where you would plug it in.

Does anyone know for sure or have tried it? I have not had much success finding documentation for the "DLS-30 IQ4" model.

Yes, it's very confusing but the end of the day, no, you can't use the IOTA plug-in for lithium... for some reason, the IOTA FWC used is a model that can't accept the plug-in. If you drill down in the documentation (somewhere) the IOTA used (at least in my 2023 flatbed) it'll tell you that it won't work as the unit in FWC's have the internal IQ charge controller (your unit may be different though).
-------

Here's what the add-on states:
The IQ4 LIFEPO Smart Charge Controller easily plugs into the Dual Voltage Jack of your IOTA DLS Battery Charger. Once plugged in, the IQ Smart Charge circuitry is automatically engaged and your IQ module will activate. Your DLS will now provide an automatic and trouble free charging profile to your batteries!
Note: External IOTA IQ Smart Charge Controllers are not compatible with DLS units with internal IQ charge controllers.

 

[pvstoy]

So how can we disable the internal agm and allow the external lithium to work?

 

[K7MDL]

I shined a light into the IOTA housing and I believe I saw what is the IQ4 module mounted inside the front inside corner. I am thinking one could pull that module and wire up the external IQ4-Li version module. Just have to get the power supply out first. My hands do nto fit in that space well on my 2022 front dinette.

 

[pvstoy]

When time allows, future project, like to get a free, used free or cheap unit. Then tear it apart on the bench and see how it works. Get a lithium module and work with it on the bench to actually see how to modify a agm to lithium conversion.

 

[kmcintyre]

So how can we disable the internal agm and allow the external lithium to work?

I just pulled mine out and there's a sticker on it that states "Dual Voltage Jack Disabled"... now, as someone pointed out, you could (might) pull the cover off and figure out how to "enable" it unless it's firmware related BUT when I look at the connector through the cooling slots, it's not connected to anything! If you could figure out where it connects to the motherboard, it might be an "easy" fix. I have this one for sale if anyone wants to try it ($100).

 

[craig333]

You sure that isn't referring to a 110/220 jack?

 

[Robojeeper53]

This is what I have used on my iota unit for my agm batteries, they also offer it for lithium base batteries. Has worked perfectly. Plug and play.

Multi-Stage | DLS Power Converters and Battery Chargers | IOTA

Explore IOTA's line of accessories for multi-stage battery charging today.

www.iotaengineering.com

 

[rando]

As others have said the Iota DLS-30 with the internal (AGM) IQ4 module will work just fine to charge LiFePO4 batteries. It will run in float mode (~13.6V) most of the time, but this will still charge the lithium batteries (albeit slowly), and won't hurt them. The one thing it may not do is get the voltage high enough to engage the internal cell balancing circuitry, but this is only needs to be done occasionally. If you have some other way of charing, like solar, you can use this for the occasional balance.

Unless you need to charge your batteries quickly on shore power, you don't need to replace the stock Iota charger.

 

[Vic Harder]

This is what I have used on my iota unit for my agm batteries, they also offer it for lithium base batteries. Has worked perfectly. Plug and play.

Multi-Stage | DLS Power Converters and Battery Chargers | IOTA

Explore IOTA's line of accessories for multi-stage battery charging today.

www.iotaengineering.com

That only works for the units that have the dongle port functioning. For some reason FWC had moved to the AGM units only. The units with the dongle also have the ability to run without any dongle, and then the dual voltage jack will allow you to bump up the voltage - but in that mode I don’t believe it uses any kind of charging profile. I could be very wrong… long time since I’ve looked at that manual.

 

[pvstoy]

Reading on the web shows the IQ4 is a internal board attachment. Also the plug port is disabled. Too much drama to work on it to make something work without a warranty. Insurance company would not like this either.

As Rando stated, ok to run the one you got. Or just spend the money and replace it with maybe th 55 model if you want or need more power.

 

[Brockp1329]

After ordering the lithium module for DLS-30, I still wasn't getting the max voltage I wanted for lithium so I inquired with IOTA and received the response below. Ultimately I changed out to the IP-22 to not only have a complete cohesive Victron system but I wanted more control over the charger to run the voltage up to 14.4 to initiate the BMS into balancing as battery maintenance every so often. When home, truck is parked insode so having a good shore power sysem was important to me and I like having a view of all charging systems on the Victron app. On the road DC/DC and solar does a great job.

We are writing you about your case #05598050.
So our charge works like this... the unit starts out as a constant current charger when the battery voltage starts to rise the current drops until the changer becomes a consonant voltage charger.
So as the voltage rises the current drops this is how all of our charges work they will only put out max current when used as a power supply only.
If the unit keeps putting 30 amps on the battery it would destroy the battery over time.
Battery Chargers and Power Converters Insights | IOTA
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