Looking for a 2009 FWC Price List

ckent323

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
1,287
Location
Solvang, CA
Anyone have an archived file or image of the FWC price list from 2009 whihch covers the Keystone model and which includes the cost of the options?

If so I would appreciate a copy for my records (I own a 2009 Keystone - bought used).

Regards,

Craig
 
Hey Craig!

Can't help you on the build sheet/price list, but maybe ask FWC.

How did your new camper shake out? Any problems?

Did you redo the cassette area? Inquiring minds want to know!

Lastly, when are you going to get bored with it and sell it to me :)

Sam
 
Camper is great! We most recently used it from September 28 - October 7 on a trip up the Owens Valley and over Tioga Pass and home. We camped at Rock Creek Lake on the West side, then Saddlebag Lake and Ellery Lake off Tioga pass then finally Soquel campground in Sierra National Forest. We like having pressurized hot water and the forced air heater (our old Keystone had manual water pump, no hot water and no heater) but I will be replacing the heater thermostat with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EBCE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3JK8Z8XJ66HS9&coliid=I2UDQN8JOGGRKH

We generally turned the heater off at night and then I would reach over and flip it on if one of us needed to get up or if it was getting too cold. Well the temps got down in the teens at Ellery and we agreed that keeping it just above freezing inside was fine and the minimum setting on the factory thermostat is too warm for us. We sleep in a nice comfy Slumberjack Bonnie & Clyde 30/40 degree double bag and it is plenty warm.

We have purchased but not yet mounted small nets for stashing things in addition I have ordered pole storage clips from Amazon for our hiking poles and the speaker lift (for raising the top) and will mount them under the cabinet over the couch.

The camper has two 6V Golf Cart vented batteries under the roll over couch that take up a lot of room. They lasted a good long time and we only had to run the generator occasionally for an hour or two. The camper is not electrically connected to the truck. When time comes to replace them I will go with AGM sealed batteries but I think I may stick with two 6V units because we get about 200 or so amps from them vs only 100 from a Group 31 12V AGM battery (the factory battery compartment in the front passenger side is sized for one group 31 and two 6v won't quite fit. The group 31 was tempting to allow reclaiming the precious space under the couch but giving up 100 amps is a big deal. In the meantime I still need to mount and wire up the solar panel I bought this summer. Maybe that coupled with a group 31 AGM would be sufficient. Not sure yet.

I am also going to switch all the bulbs over to LED as well as convert the rear halogens floods to LED (probably outright replace the units with GROTE or equivalent)

For most of the trip we were able to run the refrigerator on propane even when underway. We did run out of propane during the middle of the last night out so we will have to manage that better in the future. Maybe find some place to carry a small spare bottle.

The camper is mounted to my 1993 Dodge ClubCab Diesel W250 (4WD) long bed. There is a lot of wasted space between the truck box sides and the camper sides (more so than our old 1984 Keystone which is noticeably bigger inside - except for the bed).

The truck needs a paint job and I am evaluating the cost and trouble of cutting holes and installing lockable hatches in the side of the bed to access the unused space (with boxes somehow mounted inside for weather and theft protection) vs cost of converting to a flatbed with locking boxes on both sides. I carry a tool box, a small generator, extra fuel, oil, emergency water and other stuff that has to be moved in and out of the camper. Having places on the truck outside the camper to stow that stuff and allow convenient access would be much less hassle and make more sense.

I have a Stockland bed cap I put on when the camper is off the truck (which is most of the time for now) and I would size the flatbvred and side boxes to accommodate the Stockland cap.

The one thing that bugs me is that the gap between the top of the truck cab and the bottom of the camper cabover bed is much larger than our old Keystone. It creates a big air dam. I am thinking about building a roll out drawer and storage area to put 2 fold up chairs and a second, deployable solar panel in that is permanently attached to the underside of the camper cabover bed. I would build a contoured front wind deflector into it.

We carry the camper with the tailgate on (down of course) to protect the camper overhang (It extends about 6" beyond the end of the bed onto the tailgate) and to provide a small ledge to stand on which is VERY convenient.

I am also eying the Aluminess swing out bumpers with the tire carrier, storage box and room for 2 bikes.

If I can figure out a way to mount something like that to the back and get around the tailgate or perhaps just go with a longer flatbed I will likely do it. Having a second spare tire is desirable for us as is carrying the bikes.

Last thought is that we carry an ice chest in the clubcab area directly behind the center console. Wendie can reach it while we are underway and it is very nice to have cold drinks and snacks (veggies, fruit, cheese, whatever) in reach on a long drive. The ice takes up a lot of the space of course and at some point I will probably replace tit with a 12v refrigerator/freezer.

Lots to ponder yet.

Regards,

Craig
 
The Honeywell RTH221B will not allow you to set a temperature below 40 degrees F.

I choose the Honeywell CT50K1028/E because it can be set to come on at 35 degrees. I could not find a programmable unit that has a setting that low.

If I could find one that would turn on at 30 degrees that would be my choice. Would use it to keep minimum temps right at 33 degrees F.
 
In my long post above I incorrectly wrote:

"...I may stick with two 6V units because we get about 200 or so amps from them vs only 100 from a Group 31 12V AGM battery (the factory battery compartment in the front passenger side is sized for one group 31 and two 6v won't quite fit."


Two 6v 100 amp hour batteries connected in series give 12 v at the same amperage as one battery so output is 12vv and 100 amp hours.

Two 6v 100 amp hour batteries connected in parallel give 6 v at double the amperage as one battery so output is 6v and 100 amp hours.

So probably will be going to a single Sears Diehard Group 31 AGM.

Lesson: after reading stuff on the web, engage brain before simply regurgitating material as it may be incorrect.

Regards,

Craig
 

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