More Diesel heater questions

graytrekker

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2024
Messages
13
Location
Ronan, Montana
Hello, I am new to this forum but looking forward to learning a lot from others here.

I have a new ATC Ocelot on my '05 Tundra. I will be cross posting this on the ATC forum, too, as I didn't not find how to make one post to both.

I got the shell version and am building it out myself. One item I definitely want to include is a diesel heater for the fall months. I have read what I could find here, as well as watched my youtubes. Mostly these are for van conversions, not slide in campers.

I had thought about mounting one outside under the cantilever forward of the wheel well, where there is space. However, it is pretty tight between the the bottom of the cantilever and the top of the bed rail. Additionally, I have a very tight fit around the tailgate, so porting out that way doesn't seem to offer much opportunity.

Lately there have been watching reviews on some new "toolbox" versions of these heaters where everything is self contained. This seems pretty convenient and no real installation work, but would mean putting the heater outside when in use and finding a place to port in the warm air - which I think I have.

So my questions:

1). Is anyone here doing anything like this?
2). How should I protect the unit from weather, like rain and snow?
3). How much heat do I need - 2KW, 5 KW or 8KW? In my old camper (Roamin Chariot) I had no heat, except for a small propane catalytic thingy. I slept without heat with no issue as I have good sleeping bags.

Thanks in Advance for your help!

Warmest holiday wishes

Doug
 
Imho, having an installed heater (whatever style) that doesn't require any setup is the beauty of things. Jump into cold camper and fire up heater while setting other things up, getting out of whatever gear, etc. Time to move again? Turn off the heater and deal with whatever else and you can roll. It'll likely take more space to store a portable unit that just building one in.
 
As far as sizing goes, I would recommend the smaller KW units you mentioned. I had a Propex HS2200 in my Hawk, and thought I would need a bigger furnace for my Puma/Grandby, so I got the HS2800. Its actually too much heat for the size of the camper, even at -20*C.
The 2200 = 1.9kw and 6500 BTU
The 2800 = 2.8 kw and 9500 BTU
 
I bought a planar diesel heater 2D for my Hawk and it’s not sufficient. It’ll only get the camper to about 50 ish degrees in below freezing weather. I would definitely go bigger, that one outputs 7k btu which isn’t good enough. The propane heater is 12k btu and so I think 9k+ btu would do fine. It does depend on the weather you will be camping in. The planar itself is a great heater, just need a larger one.
 
Hmmm. I have to do more research on this, but why would our experiences be so different? I'm thinking 7K BTU is plenty for a Grandby/Puma with the Arctic pak at 0*F.
 
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Two possibilities to pursue here.
1. Heat produced * run time
2. Insulation and/or air flow

2000 * 4x runtime = 8000 * x runtime

I had a large cold air inflow around the fridge gap crack surrounding the cabinet of the fridge. Installing the Alien gap block tape significantly reduced the cold air entering the camper, especially if the fridge louvers were orient on the lee side of the camper.

Is there a significant difference in solid wall insulation R value between ATC & FWC or between different manufacturing years?

Soft wall R value differences among no cold pack vs cloth cold pack vs quilted cold pack could make a difference.

Having roof vent open or closed plus having a soft side window cracked open to control condensation could also make a big difference.

One must consider each of these factors & their interactions that have an impact on inside air thermals to better understand where to focus one's attention for comfort in addition to one's clothing.
 
The Scout popup camper mounts the diesel heater on the rear wall of the camper. It appears to duct the heat directly through the wall avoiding heat loss that would accompany outside ducting. YOHO - Scout Campers

The Dometic in my Panther is nominally 12,000 btus but is a bit less than 75% efficient. The 9,000 or so btus it puts out is more than adequate to heat my Panther. The downside is that it heats up fast and then starts cycling. When I replace it I’ll choose something around 2kW (6800 btus) with a higher efficiency.
 
I bought a planar diesel heater 2D for my Hawk and it’s not sufficient. It’ll only get the camper to about 50 ish degrees in below freezing weather. I would definitely go bigger, that one outputs 7k btu which isn’t good enough. The propane heater is 12k btu and so I think 9k+ btu would do fine. It does depend on the weather you will be camping in. The planar itself is a great heater, just need a larger one.
What ambient temps are you talking about?

This seems to be counter to everything I have read. I have only seen one or two ppl talk about the larger diesel heaters in a camper. Everyone else says get the 2kw.

Trying to get the ambient air can be a challenge. Once you get to extremely low temps recirculating the air is helpful.

Where do put the planar?

How long is your hose?

How does the hose enter the camper?
 
@graytrekker

Have you done anything more on this? I'm in the same need as you. FWC Raven shell. Wanting to maximize the interior by putting the heater on the outside.

I found some options for couplers. Here's one from Total Composites that they use on their campers:

coupler

Also here on Etsy:

coupler

You would use these to mount to the outside of the shell and be able to run your hoses in. By using two you could recirculate the air making it more efficient. A 2kw is what I'm looking at with Espar, Webasto, and Planar. Mount it in a aluminum or pelican style case to help with weatherproofing it some like Scout or Outpost.
 
What ambient temps are you talking about?

This seems to be counter to everything I have read. I have only seen one or two ppl talk about the larger diesel heaters in a camper. Everyone else says get the 2kw.

Trying to get the ambient air can be a challenge. Once you get to extremely low temps recirculating the air is helpful.

Where do put the planar?

How long is your hose?

How does the hose enter the camper?
I have the portable planar. If you are installing one inside then maybe the 2kw will work if it’s recirculating the air. I still think it may be undersized when camping in colder weather though. FWC uses a 12k btu for a reason, 7k btu on a 2kw is well below that and will have trouble keeping up in colder the weather. The planar on my hawk with my testing raises the temp inside about 20-30 degrees above the outside temp. So if it’s 20 outside it struggled to keep it at 50. I used a Govee sensor to track it. The propane furnace has no problem keeping at 65 when it’s in the 20’s. So I’d shoot for as close to a 12k btu with whatever heater you are planning.
 
Just a guess, but given how many folks have jumped on here to say that the small propex is big enough for a Grandby or have said that their diesel heaters are better because they keep the heat more constant (because they cycle less often... and cycling is caused by having too high a heat output for the size of the Atwood heaters in their campers), I'd say there must be something wrong with your example of a diesel heater. Can you check the heat output?
 
Just a guess, but given how many folks have jumped on here to say that the small propex is big enough for a Grandby or have said that their diesel heaters are better because they keep the heat more constant (because they cycle less often... and cycling is caused by having too high a heat output for the size of the Atwood heaters in their campers), I'd say there must be something wrong with your example of a diesel heater. Can you check the heat output?
I’m guessing they are recirculating the air to it. Since mine is outside the camper and pulls fresh air from outside that likely reduces its effectiveness. I still think you need more BTU output then a 2kw provides, but haven’t done testing with a system that is recirculating the air.
 
@graytrekker

Have you done anything more on this? I'm in the same need as you. FWC Raven shell. Wanting to maximize the interior by putting the heater on the outside.

I found some options for couplers. Here's one from Total Composites that they use on their campers:

coupler

Also here on Etsy:

coupler

You would use these to mount to the outside of the shell and be able to run your hoses in. By using two you could recirculate the air making it more efficient. A 2kw is what I'm looking at with Espar, Webasto, and Planar. Mount it in a aluminum or pelican style case to help with weatherproofing it some like Scout or Outpost.
Hi - sorry, I didn't see your post until today.
No - I am still mulling over different locations. I will not do anything until March, probably
 
Hi - sorry, I didn't see your post until today.
No - I am still mulling over different locations. I will not do anything until March, probably
Hi - you mentioned "Mount it in a aluminum or pelican style case to help with weatherproofing it some like Scout or Outpost." I'm still looking for a case for my 2 KW. What are Scout and Outpost? are these cases you are considering?
Thanks
Doug
 
Ah - got it. These are slide-ins that have the heater in a metal box on the outside. I found a video reference in another thread:

"Old Crow" posted this last June:


Interesting, but very expensive. Those cases are north of $500. Not really cost saving over a propane heater
 
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Ah - got it. These are slide-ins that have the heater in a metal box on the outside. I found a video reference in another thread:

"Old Crow" posted this last June:


Interesting, but very expensive. Those cases are north of $500. Not really cost saving over a propane heater
Temu and Swisslink Surplus have them for 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a zarges. I didnt see your post till this morning but did reply to your pm!

clint
 

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