MORE winterizing questions

Sagefemme

Advanced Member
Joined
May 20, 2024
Messages
92
Location
Western Oregon
I have a 2016 Hawk Flatbed. I watched the FWC video "How to winterize a flatbed camper." Inside the cabinet under the kitchen counter (where there are two manifolds in the video) I have no manifolds, and a maze of small PVC pipes. So there are no valves to open for the blow-out process except the valve from the bottom of the hot water tank to the main water tank, which I did.

There is no mention in the video of the toilet, which I do have and which is connected to water. I guess it just gets blown out along with the other systems? And we have never used the indoor shower, so I'm guessing there's nothing to do there. IMG_7030.jpgIMG_7027.JPGIMG_7025.JPGIMG_7024.JPGIMG_7022.JPG

The last picture shows the valve between the hot water and the main water tank; I opened that. The next to last shows a valve which I guess allows you to bypass (not fill) the hot water tank.

Am I missing anything?
 
I have a 2015 and you,are not missing anything. I open both valves and faucets and the water heater will gravity flow back to water tank. Open outside drain and wait for to drain in 5 gallon paint buckets.

When finished attach blow out plug on city water fitting and pressure around 35 psi open, close faucets, toilet etc. .
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I also run the pump and drain the filter bowl.

Also spoiled I have a insulated heated shop where it rest.
 
I have the blowout valve. I have removed the filter bowl. I'm not prepared at this moment to buy an air compressor, although I think there might be one in my future! Probably something portable that can be used for airing tires up and down (for whenever we actually get some off-road adventures happening). For now I may just go to a gas station with air, although they seem to be vanishingly rare these days........

Would kill for insulated, heated shop. Maybe someday!
 
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If a air compressor is not in your future... You can use RV Antifreeze. But I dislike it and will not put it in the water tank or the water heater.

But what you can do is after everything is gravity drained, leave faucet and outside drain open, even the water heater pop off valve and drive around to change elevation left to right, front to back to move more water out of the drain.

Another thought with using RV Antifreeze.

Close the upper valve leading into the water heater and you could leave the pop off valve open for air flow to evaporate (but this leaves a opening for bugs that may still be active looking for a home). The water heater is such a big volume that it would take many gallons of RV antifreeze to fill and longer time to flush out the RV antifreeze later. If the tank is mostly empty, then what is in there when it freezes, the expansion might not do any harm as it can not push against anything.

The lower valve returns water heater water from the tank by gravity and this method you can leave it open so no water can freeze and split the hose.

Unscrew the input side from the water pump and get a matching fitting and a long flexible hose that you can put the end into a gallon jug of RV Antifreeze. Use the pump to fill the lines to the sink and toilet. Then reconnect the water tank to pump fitting. In spring fill water tank and flush out the RV antifreeze out of the system.

Not sure if this method will put any water into the hot water lines, but at least the toilet wont freeze.

Your pictures are great but I can not follow the flow of water circuit for the water heater path. Follow your lines to see if what I suggest is valid for your system.

Of course the fastest and easier way is a blow out fitting to clear the lines but that cost money for a air compressor. It could be used for filling tires and other uses around the house and cars. My blow out plug, I cut threads to screw on the air hose fitting so I did not have to have a second person hold a air chuck on the blow out fitting end.

You could find a nice neighbor or friend that has a air compressor that is willing to help.

Good luck....
 
Some folks (not me) have had luck adding a goodly portion of Vodka to the tank and pumping that around inside the system. Spring draining would be much more entertaining than if you use RV anti-freeze. I have used that stuff and won't do it again. Takes MANY fill/flushes of the system before that taste comes out. Yuck.
 
I am not inclined to use the antifreeze; the rinsing in the spring I think is not for me. Vodka? Interesting idea. Something about it being almost Black Friday is making me think maybe an air compressor that's being sold for a discount is in my (immediate) future. I see Viair has a few models on sale:

VIAIR 400P - 40043 Portable Compressor Kit. Tire Pump, Truck/SUV Tire Inflator, For Up to 35 Inch Tires $189.95​


VIAIR 450C - Industrial Air Compressor for ‎Drilling, Air Brushing, Spraying, Nailing | 12V Continuous Duty Cycle. $254.94​


And there are some others for a discount right now.

But thanks everyone for the detailed suggestions!
 
I have Everclear! Got it for making limoncello, and then it came in handy at the beginning of COVID when we thought we had to clean surfaces..........

Suddenly the Viair website has a bunch of newer compressors, with EF or enhanced flow. Don't know if this is a worthwhile feature or if it could somehow compromise the reliability, or the quietness of these compressors. But at least they are offering decent Black Friday discounts.
 
I have Everclear! Got it for making limoncello, and then it came in handy at the beginning of COVID when we thought we had to clean surfaces..........

I love making limoncello. Sadly no one else likes it as much as I do, so I still have a liter in the freezer... hmmm... limoncello!
 
no alarm bells here. while looking at your plumbing i see a lot of plastic elbows/connectors. keep an eye on elbows that have any weight or pressure on them. i now have a sprinter revel, and the plastic connectors in plumbing is an ongoing leak problem ,in the community, from cracks, breaks, leaks. in mine, the heat exchanger had a plastic fitting going in, and the pipe went back to a hefty valve - the weight of the valve eventually caused a connector failure. go
 
SO MANY plastic elbows and connectors. I was thinking maybe the absence of the plastic manifolds was an advantage (since they seem to be a common point of failure) but maybe not. I'll just try to check everything on the regular.
 

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