Mounting a four wheel on a composite tacoma

[dmoose]

Hi im new here ive recently purchased a 2010 Tacoma access cab 4x4 i would like to add a four wheel camper to either a finch or an eagle shell most likely i want to be light.

Its very apparent to me that there are some challenges to mounting the camper to this trucks composite bed ive seen a bad photo of a bracket im not thrilled about and was wondering if you guys had any other options , better photos of the bracket ,or any tips on any problems or concerns i should be aware of before i decide how to mount it.

thanks in advance this seems to be one of the best forums for four wheel camper info an chit chat

 

[Argonaut20]

I used Torklift tie downs in front and eye bolts and turnbuckles inside the bed in back with large washers to distribute the load. ATC supplied the washers for the back. Pictures at http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2530/ give a little info as to the mounting. Eye bolts through the jack mounting holes in front supply the camper mounting point. So far, so good.

 

[Alex]

I've the same setup as Argonaut20. It's on the truck since 2006 and I've been to race track in Death Valley. All seems to be still in pretty good condition. You can see my setup in my sig line.

 

[dmoose]

OH ya ive seen both those trucks i actually thought it was one truck lol im glad to hear about the eye loops in the rear i was hoping to use internal turn buckles in the bed but that definately looks strong.

My idea was to attach supports to the frame under the bed and cut holes thru the bed and install those retractable hooks that you can get for the bed rails on older domestics into the supports thru the bed and turn buckle to those. Then they can be retracted when not in use. Depending on what those front tie downs are worth it might not be much more money to fab something like this.

Im suprised their is so little discussion on this subject as these trucks and campers are a popular combo i just wanna here as many differant setups before i decide on one.

 

[Alex]

I choose the Torklift because it's spring loaded. If the truck hits a bump/ditch there is some give in the tie down so the attach point will not break on the camper or the truck. Another member had a last gen Taco with FWC and he hit a bump on a dirt road in Baja IIRC the impact was enough to break the attach point on the camper. Later he got a 05+ Taco he switch to Torklift. I might be overly cautious since many members use the tie down setup from FWC without issue. BTW, I only attach 1 tie down in the rear so the camper is only tie down in 3 points so the truck frame can flex without fighting with the camper. Tacoma has a pretty flexy frame.

 

[Eldough]

We use D-rings held in place by the bolts that secure the composite bed to the frame; and the turnbuckles. So far so good. However, we do not drive rough off-road or washboard...mostly graded forest service roads...I wouldn't feel as safe with our setup on washboard and would likely opt for the steel bar underneath...which wouldn't be so bad because we already need to raise the camper to clear the truck bed rails. One thing I would be more comfortable with using our current setup would be the torklift turnbuckles...providing a little give at the right time. However, I don't think they are small enough to replace the turnbuckles. Also, with our RangerII, the front turnbuckles are very close to the camper...they fit...but it's a tight squeeze. Cheers!

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Each person will have different wants and needs.

We have installed approx. 400 campers on the new tacoma (2005 - 2010) trucks.

FWC spent the time to design a tie down system that works.

We really have had no problems to speak of.

We did find that the first batches of steel cross bars in the truck bed were not as beefey as we would of hoped for (we had a few bend slightly in the rear), but really no big deal.

We had our shop redesign and beef up the bracket, and since then there have been no problems that I have heard of.

If there were major problems, you all would know beacuse someone would be posting it on the forums.



I'm prety sure our brackets are $ 350.00 (+ or ) for the set (plus tax and shiping).

But they work and you can have the benefit of the inturnal tie downs, if that is what you prefer.

I have Tork-Lift tie downs on my Ford F-150 for carrying the Six-Pac Campers.

Tork-Lift make a good product, but they will cost you some $$ too.


In the end you will have to make the final call on what you like and what you will be comfortable with.

Just thought I would put my 2 cents in.

Happy Camping !






.


.

 

[dmoose]

Thanks for pointing out the fact that the torklift are spring loaded i hadnt realized that flex is a definate concern

Thanks for the photos that looks more appealing than the ones ive seen in the past but i have a couple of questions on the fwc brackets

1 in the photos i seen there was a large gap between bracket and the recessed groove in the bed under the head of the bolt the question is shouldnt their be a collar between the bracket and the bed to allow the it to be cinched down and lock the bolt from backing out ?

2 wouldnt the area between the brackets require a piece of wood or mat to support the middle of the camper floor ?

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

you wrote ...


<< in the photos i seen there was a large gap between bracket and the recessed groove in the bed under the head of the bolt the question is shouldnt their be a collar between the bracket and the bed to allow the it to be cinched down and lock the bolt from backing out ? >>

We do add backing there, as needed, and apply some sort of lock tight to the truck bed bolts when re-installing them.


<< wouldnt the area between the brackets require a piece of wood or mat to support the middle of the camper floor? >>

Yes, on all new campers we install a thick rubber bed mat in front of, in the middle of, and behind the steel cross bars. This gives the camper a nice flat surface to rest on, gives the truck bed some cushioning, and also add some "tackyness" so the camper is less likely to move or slide around on the smooth plastic truck bed. It is just not show in the pictures.


The first batch of photos posted earlier was of the original tie down bed bars.

The second batch of photos attached on this post are the newer, "beefier" brackets we have been using.

They are strong !




.



.

 

[dmoose]

Awesome im happy to hear there is some kinda a spacer between the bar and the bed as thats what holds the bed on and thanks for the pictures of the beefier bars thats option is a little more appealing now

Not to beat a dead horse but to many times ive bought things had problems then found out if i did some asking around others could have told me so

so these two methods of mounting are both very appealing for different reasons is their any other types of mounts out there people have in use that have yet to be discussed here ?

Anyone out there ever have any issues with the two mounting systems discussed above ?

 

[RobNE]

Moose,
I've the older brackets on my 2008 DCLB tacoma. I've done quite a few miles on the paper mill roads in the north woods of ME and they've held up fine. No bends either. I wouldn't characterize any of it as hard wheelin' though. YMMV. Occasionally a turnbuckle loosens up, but I don't do anything to keep it tight (extra nut or bus wire to keep it from turning)

Having said all that, i'm seriously looking to either a: bolt through into the frame via a captive nut or b: bolt through into the aforementioned bracket via a captive nut. A drift pin or two to quickly align the camper and then ratchet comfortably from the inside? Sounds nice. Others have had some success with bolting thru.

maybe its just me but, I think the part I look forward to least about putting the camper on or taking it off are those damn turnbuckles! Perhaps fast-guns or something of the like would make it easier as well?
Rob

 

[dmoose]

so this bolt thru would go right thru the floor of the camper into a nut welded in the frame then ?

That sounds alright except for the holes in the camper haha

and i guess you could bolt that on 3 corners to allow some give but the campers are suppose to flex a bit too hmmm

 

[RobNE]

I was thinking a piece of alum. angle (3x3x3wide), which would act like a washer, but also attach to the vertical wood pieces of the camper base.

yeah, my thought was the campers are supposed to flex as well.

I could be crazy... or alternatively, I may never get around to it. Although I do hate turnbuckles.
Rob

so this bolt thru would go right thru the floor of the camper into a nut welded in the frame then ?

That sounds alright except for the holes in the camper haha

and i guess you could bolt that on 3 corners to allow some give but the campers are suppose to flex a bit too hmmm

 

[dmoose]

I actually went and looked at four wheel campers yesterday and i want one more than before so bad it hurts now haha but the passenger side turn buckles under the couch look like a bugger to get at not as bad on the lh side

 

[ETAV8R]

you wrote ...


<< in the photos i seen there was a large gap between bracket and the recessed groove in the bed under the head of the bolt the question is shouldnt their be a collar between the bracket and the bed to allow the it to be cinched down and lock the bolt from backing out ? >>

We do add backing there, as needed, and apply some sort of lock tight to the truck bed bolts when re-installing them.


<< wouldnt the area between the brackets require a piece of wood or mat to support the middle of the camper floor? >>

Yes, on all new campers we install a thick rubber bed mat in front of, in the middle of, and behind the steel cross bars. This gives the camper a nice flat surface to rest on, gives the truck bed some cushioning, and also add some "tackyness" so the camper is less likely to move or slide around on the smooth plastic truck bed. It is just not show in the pictures.


The first batch of photos posted earlier was of the original tie down bed bars.

The second batch of photos attached on this post are the newer, "beefier" brackets we have been using.

They are strong !

.



.

I was looking for an answer to a possible question about a bed mat of some sort in between the camper and the harder surface of the bed it rests on. I think I will use my old Toyota rubber bed mat and cut it a bit for the brackets. I noticed in this pic that there is what looks to be a connector for power to the camper drilled into the side of the bed. Does FWC do a dual battery under the hood? If so how do you go about mounting it. There is room in the engine bay on the passenger side but I'm having trouble figuring out how to do it. Thanks.

 

[takesiteasy]

I noticed in this pic that there is what looks to be a connector for power to the camper drilled into the side of the bed. Does FWC do a dual battery under the hood? If so how do you go about mounting it. There is room in the engine bay on the passenger side but I'm having trouble figuring out how to do it. Thanks.

ETAV8R, not a direct answer to your question but I think you have seen my second battery setup under the hood. I don't know if FWC supports this type of installation or not. FWIW, ATC mounted a plug into the side of the bed with two outlets- one for the power connection from the battery to the camper, and one for a connection from a solar controller (I don't have solar yet) to the battery. Wires run to this plug from the camper fuse panel. It is a fairly stout wire running from the battery back to the bed under the truck. Sorry I don't know the size off hand. I imagine FWC could do this as well.

 

[tnscoots]

Hi Folks,

I made my own cross bed brackets after seeing the pictures like the ones Stan posted here. I had no trouble with them on a nearl 10K mile trip, with ample driving on washboard roads. they were pretty easy to make and certainly saved me a few hundred dollars.

I will probably post my '98 Ranger Shell for sale soon, in case anyone is interested. I restorred it and modified the rear floor and side walls to better fit my 2012 Tacoma as opposed to the way in fit the original Ford Ranger. This modification opened much more floor space. The second picture is the original side wall configuration of the Ranger Shell, and the thrid picture reveals my modification.
Cheers,
Tom

 

[BSS]

The best rubber I have found for this task is commonly used for the floor of livestock stalls, sold at ranch and farm supply stores. I don't know what it's called but you'll know it when you see it.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

DMoose - you don't say whether you want to mount it down permanently or part time.
My Eagle is bolted down full time. If interested in that solution check out my post "Bolting Eagle or Fleet to 2005-2013 Tacoma" - posted Feb 2nd, 2013. Look in the archives (page 3 or 4) .

If your doing it part time consider "Tork-Lift" system...especially if your over 50 as it gets harder to work the turnbuckles when you are older,
-RCPilot Jim

 

[Argonaut20]

Tork Lift and Fast guns make it easy to mount the camper into the truck. The biggest worry is centering the camper side to side. I've thought about doing the Tork Lift mount in the rear of the truck and getting rid of the turnbuckles completely. Haven't spent the money yet.