My new truck 2021 F350 7.3gas

[eyemgh]

i'll look into wil-ro

There is Bullhead products in Kodak, TN also.

EBY in PA looks interesting, the local distributor hasn't tried to get any in over 2 years though. (i don't like the look of the headboard)

I'm having a Bowen made in CO. He's leaving out the headache rack completely. We'll have the camper on 99.9% of the time. It's surprising how much space they eat up. By eliminating it, we can move the COG 6" further forward.

 

[Machinebuilder]

I'm having a Bowen made in CO. He's leaving out the headache rack completely. We'll have the camper on 99.9% of the time. It's surprising how much space they eat up. By eliminating it, we can move the COG 6" further forward.

If I were to have the camper on all the time I would do that.

My truck is my only vehicle (other than motorcycles) and I need it as a truck often.

It's too bad the most interesting beds are very expensive and on the west coast.

 

[eyemgh]

If I were to have the camper on all the time I would do that.

My truck is my only vehicle (other than motorcycles) and I need it as a truck often.

It's too bad the most interesting beds are very expensive and on the west coast.

So true. Even though we’re very close to Highway Products and Sherptek, we chose Bowen for several reasons. First and foremost, Brent is right down the road from Hallmark. I have to go to Denver to get the camper anyway. He and Matt are working together with a little input from me to do a very intentioned integration. I like the angles on his low rear boxes better. He was also better priced than the other two. It came out just under $14k for a full aluminum deck, 4 lower boxes, and two 8’ upper boxes, installed. It’s a chunk of change, but there will be a lot of labor time with the design he’s building. The others were both over $20k.

 

[Machinebuilder]

I've been looking and have had several discouraging responses

Hillsboro dealer - 64 weeks on an order

Protech - start about $7000, underbody boxes $600-$700 each Topside boxes up to $3000 each. 16 weeks

Knaphiede - $7000 if I install, 47 weeks

I'm thinking this may be a good option

https://ddfab.co/

Steel frame and a wood bed, I have enough oak boards to make a nice bed

 

[Machinebuilder]

bump, Ill add to this post later

 

[michelle_east_county]

Skaug is about 25 miles NW of downtown LA and has worked with Alaskan Campers. I contacted them about a year ago before deciding we’d pack less rather than spend $$ on a service body. But, their prices weren’t bad at time.

https://nxa.07b.myftpupload.com/about-us/

 

[Machinebuilder]

Well since I posted I have made a couple decisions.

I ordered a Buckstop Outback bumper and an EBY flatbed.

I go to pick up the flatbed Monday. I’m going to install it myself and save $1200.

I got a call from Buckstop today and it’s being shipped today.

I had ordered lights from Baja Designs and have them waiting for the bumper

Next is a stop at Harbour Frieght to buy a winch.

I’m getting things closer to my wants. [emoji3]

 

[Machinebuilder]

Skaug looks interesting but a long way from East TN

 

[Machinebuilder]

I've had a busy couple weeks.

The week I made plans to pick up the EBY Flatbed, I git a call and my Buckstop Bumper was shipped.

I had to drive from Maryville, TN to Seymor, IN to pick up my bed.
It ended up being a longer day than I had hoped for as they were not prepared for me, even after having plenty of notice.
But I was loaded and on my way home.

I found out they do NOT have an adapter harness for the 2020 up trucks. I did some research and got a Pickup bed removal harness from Ford, This would plug into the truck and the bed. The bed comes wired with plugs like used on a Ford Chassis Cab.
BUT there are some changes that have to be done to the BCM module, so I bought a OBD2 to USB adapter and downloaded Forscan.


I decided to do the bed swap in my driveway the following weekend.
first disconnect all the electrical connectors and remove the bumper, and chase the helpers away.

Next is disconnect the Fuel Filler and remove the bed bolts, this takes a EP24 socket (external Torx Plus)
Then I carefully rigged it to my Bobcat and set it on a stack of pallets.

Then the hardest part of the job, there are 4 Z rails that bolt to the original bed mount locations. Of course none of the holes lined up correctly, and EBY had supplied 1/2-13 bolts and nuts. The bed bolts are M14-2 and there is no way to put a nut on the inside af a boxed frame. So I made a trip to get some M14 bolts and got all 4 mounted. the very front Z rail was about 4" shorter than the spacing so I had to make some extension plates for it.

I just realized today I need to cut the 2 center ones to make some clearance for some mud guards.

As it was a very hot and humid day I stopped and contacted a friend to come over and help me place the bed on the truck.
Again it was rigged to the bobcat and placed on the truck. After that its light enough the 2 of us could move it around.

We had to notch the Tailboard for clearance around the hitch, and move it mostly off the truck to drill the holes to bolt the bed to the Z rails. I then had to play with Forscan, download a license and make the following changes to the BCM.
There is a setting to change the turn signal to combined turn signal/brake, another to tell it that it has LED lamps so it doesn't hyperflash. I also changed the setting for the TPMS so I can run a lower tire pressure when I an unloaded.

NO pictures but I have gotten the fuel filler modified and mounted to the bed (I will test it next time I fill up)
I have the 2 under bed boxes to mount still, and mud flaps to mount.

 

[Machinebuilder]

My bumper took a bit longer to ship from Oregon to TN than hoped, I ran into a delay with the holiday.

I started it on Saturday AM and had it on in a few hours, it went very smoothly.

Again the first step is remove the bumper, and install the new brackets

Install the Winch before you install the bumper, and then install the bumper

A jack in the reciever worked ok (it was too much weight for my floor jack, it tipped forward)

Just needed to get the first 2 bolts in and then use a bottle jack to help align it

With the Baja Design lights installed, They need to be wired and aligned still, and I need a couple different bolts for the winch and fairlead.

 

[smlobx]

A skidsteer sure is a handy piece of equipment! I find myself using ours for all sorts of projects.

Nice work so far!

 

[Machinebuilder]

I tell people the Bobcat is as much fun as a Tonka in the sandbox, Then i got a grapple for it...................

Its not only fun but one of the most useful things I have.
The drawback is getting in and out of it.

Thanks smlbox.

 

[Machinebuilder]

I decided to do a test fit of the camper.

the Jacks are maxed out. the bed is a few inches higher than OEM
It's a bit more tricky backing under it straight and centered, I put a piece of tape center front of the camper and center rear of the bed. I was only about 1" off at the rear.

Now to figure out tie downs better and figure out what I want to do for sides.
toolboxes are not cheap, I think I would like fold down sides. the height would be OK to use as a table for me.

I do have more space to the cab, I am debating cutting the rubber bumpers down to move the camper forward, or spacing the camper back about 2" and using the space for additional storage.

I am going from the 3 step stool to a 4 step, its just too much higher.

I ran into some issues mounting the under bed boxes I bought with the bed, they are 18x18x30, I only have 16" to the frame rail.
I have to assume they are made more for Chassis Cab dual rear wheel beds.
There are very few made that are 15" deep, I will be doing some modifications.

Good news is my fuel filler mods worked, I filled up with the nozzle held wide open and no problems.

 

[DarinH]

I decided to do a test fit of the camper.

the Jacks are maxed out. the bed is a few inches higher than OEM
It's a bit more tricky backing under it straight and centered, I put a piece of tape center front of the camper and center rear of the bed. I was only about 1" off at the rear.

Now to figure out tie downs better and figure out what I want to do for sides.
toolboxes are not cheap, I think I would like fold down sides. the height would be OK to use as a table for me.

I do have more space to the cab, I am debating cutting the rubber bumpers down to move the camper forward, or spacing the camper back about 2" and using the space for additional storage.

I am going from the 3 step stool to a 4 step, its just too much higher.

I ran into some issues mounting the under bed boxes I bought with the bed, they are 18x18x30, I only have 16" to the frame rail.
I have to assume they are made more for Chassis Cab dual rear wheel beds.
There are very few made that are 15" deep, I will be doing some modifications.

Good news is my fuel filler mods worked, I filled up with the nozzle held wide open and no problems.

What mileage are you getting when your hauling your camper?

 

[Machinebuilder]

Greatly depending on speed driven from 12-15MPG.

12MPG at 70-75MPH
15MPG at 55-65MPH
I'm guessing with the camper on the flatbed it will go down, it sits about 6" higher.


Probably less at slow 2 track speeds.

empty around town 13.5 to 14 MPG

I'm thrilled its a big heavy truck that will do anything I will ask of it.

 

[michelle_east_county]

With same 7.3 engine and axle ratio, our unloaded F350 SuperCab longbed did a little better on highway and worse in town, but the latter means signalized stop-and-go or congested freeways here in San Diego. This seems to overlap with what others reported with 6.2 OHC w earlier HD 6-spd and various axle ratios, though I had the feeling some were reporting a little better unloaded on the highway.

With our Hallmark Ute and about a 3-4" gap to cab roof, highway mileage at around 65 is 11+, and at 55 about 12. Some have said the 7.3 and the 6.2 continue to get better mileage up to at least 15-20,000 miles.

 

[Machinebuilder]

I have finslly got the underbed boxes mounted. It was a bigger ordeal than I anticipated.

on the passenger side I had to cut the depth down about 3". A 16" deep box will not fit under the bed on a single wheel Pickup bed removal/ the wide point on the frame is the bolt for the leaf spring.

I cut the back out and used 1" aluminum angle and marine sealant with pop rivets to put it back together. then coated it with Flex seal and spray on bed liner.

I also had to space it down 1.5" from the cross beams to get the top of the door below the outer beam.

The Drivers side was more involved as I had to cut a trough for the fuel filler and cut another 3/4" off to clear the parking brake cable brackets

 

[michelle_east_county]

' looks good! Your ordeal is why I was reluctant to have most upfitters install one, not trusting them to not take shortcuts I've heard of involving blocks of wood, thinwall channel, or big hammers. It's too bad the OEM beds don't have something like a side-access compartment like what Ram has from top of bedwalls or access from a door between rear wheelwell and front of bed like the early or mid-'70s Ford Camper Specials had. That one even offered a bed that was about 9'.

 

[Machinebuilder]

When I picked the bed up and saw the place,I started questioning their workmanship.

After not getting real answers on the wiring from the truck to the bed, I knew i had made the right desicion to do the work myself.

I know they were planning to give me 24" long boxes, and i had to point out I expected the 30".
I suspect it would not have been a very good job.

I'm glad i can do things myself.

 

[steve whiteside]

I have finslly got the underbed boxes mounted. It was a bigger ordeal than I anticipated.

on the passenger side I had to cut the depth down about 3". A 16" deep box will not fit under the bed on a single wheel Pickup bed removal/ the wide point on the frame is the bolt for the leaf spring.

I cut the back out and used 1" aluminum angle and marine sealant with pop rivets to put it back together. then coated it with Flex seal and spray on bed liner.

I also had to space it down 1.5" from the cross beams to get the top of the door below the outer beam.

The Drivers side was more involved as I had to cut a trough for the fuel filler and cut another 3/4" off to clear the parking brake cable brackets

with the installation futzing around you needed to do (the holes that didnt line up, different thread sizes, the underboxes that were the wrong size, the fuel filter, etc...) would all of that been covered in the $1200 installation? If so that seems like it would have been a bargain. BTW you seem very handy! Good for you! steve