New Build in Progress

Glenn

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Southern Illinois
Hello All,

I started a new build this spring. I’ve taken lots of pictures but am only going to post a few to start with as there are so many.

I will add more pictures every few days or so until I get caught up to where I am currently. I will definatelf have questions when I get into the Solar and dc to dc charging.

Background in the build: My goal is to build a removable base , that is self contained with the electrical and plumbing built in, using my shop hoist to lift it out of the bed of the truck. Then removable cabinet lids, with evetythjng bolted together with 1/4-20 inserts.And finally allowing the mid rise topper to be removed should I want access to my 5th wheel rails for trailering.

So here we go:

I made a base with 1” styrene to stagger the 5ver rails and added roller bearings for the drawers to slide easily on

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Here’s a closer view of the roller(s)

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Next I built the supporting base out of 2X10’s (3) with cross supports and a plywood top attached with 1/4-20 flathead bolts and inserts should the top ever need removed. I also cut out some diamond shaped holes in the 2X10’s to lighten it up a bit. Primed with KILZ and top coat of light sage acrylic.

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Then began building drawers. Box joints on the corners for support and divided into compartments.


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I shaped ,glued, and clamped cedar boards to the fiberglass ledge along the topper with Loctite Ultimate adhesive. They in turn used 1/4-20 inserts annd installed boards to them for hinging thd cabinet lids to, make them removable. I built a box to hold the 42 gallon water tank which formed the end by the cab , The cabinet uprights were made from 1 X 12’s with a 90 degree sill board bolted to the base. It also bolts to the water tank box in a similar fashion



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Ends were made with a support brace (also bolted using inserts) and the lids made and attached with hinges


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Here’s a picture of the drawers installed and partially pulled out showing individual compartments.


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Drawers closed. The area between the cabinets was measured and allowed wide enough for an air mattress


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The box and drawers sit high enough (above the 5ved rails) that I made 2X10’s with the same roller bearings to assist the drawers to come out smoothly as they cantilever over the tail gate. A cleat was attached that drips into the gap between the tailgate and truck box holding then in place. Their is room to store them behind the left drawer under the cabinet.


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I hope you enjoyed the pictures, and it wasn’t too long of a post. I will add more pictures this weekend.

Glenn👍
 
Looking good! I am surprised that you did not incorporate aluminum considering your welding experience. No worries on weight for you though. That dually can handle anything! Thanks for the pics.
 
Post Edit: in my post and picture of the ball bearing slides I mentioned using styrene. Actually it is a sheet of 1/2” plywood with the styrene glued to the back with liquid nail to fill in the gaps between the 5ver rails. Then a hole saw used in the plywood to set the base of the rollers into. Sorry for any confusion. This picture is with the plywood face up (1” styrene not shown)

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Q. I’ve looked…..and to know in the future: is there an edit button that the original poster can use to go back and clean up grammar or pics? Thanks!
 
Glenn, after 24 hours, you need to contact anyone on the Site Team to reset your time to edit. Send me a link to the post in a PM, and I’ll try and reset it for you. I say try, because I don’t believe any of the moderators have done this on the new platform.
 
And here’s a picture of what they look like before setting them into the plywood. We have ones similar, but in a much larger size on our shear bed at work for sliding full sheets of steel plate across.


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I did find my photo of the back side of the plywood with the attached styrene that fits around the 5ver rails. The closed cell styrene has a very high psi rating.

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And here’s looking into the base without the drawers. The rollers were laid out to form 3 rows for each drawer. One row along each edge and one row down the middle


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I mentioned glueing a cedar board to the ledges of the topper (for fastening a pine board and the. the lid hinges) You can see where I cut out around the ‘J’ hook hold downs so as not to interfere with removal of the topper in the future.

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And after applying the Loctite Ultimate and clamping the cedar (for any moisture accumulated through the screen windows) and pine boards, I let it cure for 5 days before removing the clamps. I had the fiberglass extremely clean for a good bond. I bought the Ultimate at Home Depot and fiberglass was listed as one of the materials reccomeded for bonding to.

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