"New" Camper <-> Truck wiring?

[The Fawker]

Howdy.

I have a 2022 Tundra that the previous owner had FWC-factory wired for a 2022 Hawk, where an Atwood 3-wire trolling motor connector is installed on the side of the bed.

I recently purchased a 2024 Hawk (with "upgraded" electronics) and need to upgrade the wiring and wiring components from the truck to the camper. I know I'm going to need a Anderson SB50, but what is the other connector type (i.e., where can I buy its mate)? And what's it for? Marker lights and...?

Thanks! And happy to be back in the FWC family.
- Fawker (looking for a new truck/camper name)

 

[bwag]

You may be able to source the parts from Zero Declination there in Reno.

 

[Jon R]

I don’t recognize the small connector type, but it would contain the positive for the camper marker lights coming from one of the truck’s light circuits. The second conductor of the small connector could be unused, could be a redundant ground, or could be a dedicated truck ground for the marker lights if the camper uses a dc to dc charger with ground isolation.

 

[K7MDL]

The small connector is common waterproof automotive type made by many manufacturers. Of course they all have slight differences, including same pin number but different keying (the little tabs). I did a quick look and found this which appears to be the same connector as you have.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807436634453.html

It is likely available in the US too.

The big one (SB50 I presume) you have is red (obviously) but note that they come in several other colors and only mate with the same color (they have unique keying). If you find a pair of gray connectors, it is easy to use a screw driver and push the spring clip down from under the contacts, releasing the contacts from the housing. Then slip on your gray one. Kill the power first. The crimp contacts come in different sizes according to your wire size.

Like Jon suggests, the small one should be your marker light power.

 

[Dirtroadsavant]

A version of the small one should be on the electric parts display of nearly any auto parts store. Mine is for a single wire coming forward from the license plate lights.

 

[Jon R]

The SB50 line has several colors, most of which are uniquely keyed, including the red ones. Black and gray can mate with each other. Here is the spec sheet with color and contact info as well as electrical characteristics.

https://www.andersonpower.com/content/dam/app/ecommerce/product-pdfs/SB50/ds-sb50.pdf

 

[The Fawker]

Thanks @Jon R and @K7MDL, I didn't realize the Anderson connectors were uniquely keyed. That's super helpful.

 

[Jon R]

Thanks @Jon R and @K7MDL, I didn't realize the Anderson connectors were uniquely keyed. That's super helpful.

Also, while the SB series connectors do not have male/female halves, the environmental boots do have a male and female half. It looks like you have one side of an environmental boots pair. If you want to have the mating boot make sure you look at it carefully and order the correct side (the halves are sold separately). I highly recommend the boots. They are well made and do a great job keeping the connectors clean both when mated and unmated.

 

[GVWRLOL]

Corsa Technic

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

This might help. You can look it up by manufacturer or by # of cavities

 

[The Fawker]

Corsa Technic

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

This might help. You can look it up by manufacturer or by # of cavities

I appreciate the help. Not super efficient, though, just because there are so many 2-conductor connectors.

I ended up googling "2-wire automotive connector" and found on Amazon. Now I feel dumb for not doing that in the first place.

Next: Figuring out what the wires do. Cheers everyone

 

[The Fawker]

You may be able to source the parts from Zero Declination there in Reno.

I got quoted > $600 to redo the truck wiring from ZD... I'm hoping I can do it myself (hence this thread) or if I should leave it to them...

I met KP for the first time last week. Super friendly, doesn't f-around, happy to take my money if I'm willing to give it up.

 

[bwag]

I got quoted > $600 to redo the truck wiring from ZD... I'm hoping I can do it myself (hence this thread) or if I should leave it to them...

I met KP for the first time last week. Super friendly, doesn't f-around, happy to take my money if I'm willing to give it up.

I'll have my 2020 Hawk up there in July to change out the FWC truck wiring, switching to lithium from AGM, new solar and an inverter and an external starlink port. I hit up FWC as they are closer, already knew they'd likely charge more for less. Was told they couldn't put an inverter in my camper as ones that are wired for shore power are incompatible with an inverter (that’s the way I understood what I was told). I don't think he heard me say it already has solar/batteries as well but I didn't bother to clarify. So, ZD will earn my business and empty my wallet...

 

[Jon R]

No camper is “incompatible” with any of the various typical power options; it’s just a matter of what needs to be changed. In some cases larger wire or different equipment will need to be installed in the camper or for the connection to the truck. None of it is a big deal for someone comfortable with electrical work. If you are not comfortable then by all means seek help, but don’t let anyone tell you “you can’t get there from here.”

 

[The Fawker]

I don’t recognize the small connector type, but it would contain the positive for the camper marker lights coming from one of the truck’s light circuits. The second conductor of the small connector could be unused, could be a redundant ground, or could be a dedicated truck ground for the marker lights if the camper uses a dc to dc charger with ground isolation.

I verified with FWC that the second, smaller 2-wire connector is for 1) the marker lights and 2) for "the ignition source positive if you have a vehicle with a smart alternator". Then, they said that a 2022 Tundra does not have a smart alternator...but I'm not convinced.

First, the battery has a voltage sensor on the battery (-) side (photo), and, second, a quick call to my local service department says the alternator "adjusts voltage based on power needs determined by the ECM." Lastly, I assume that a relatively new vehicle has a smart alternator?

Now I need to determine which fuse is ignition hot, and tap into that when running new wiring. I'm almost there!

 

[K7MDL]

The sensor is a current sensor which is used to inform the vehicle battery management system (BMS) of the current draw from and to the battery. The BMS can store this data over time to have an idea of the SOC and delay charging until a threshold is reached, delaying charging loads for when the engine might be operating at more opportun times.

Given the size and the 3 wires, it is like a Hall effect sensor with small voltage supply, GND, and the last wire analog or one-wire bus data line. Since it is on the ground side it does not know the battery voltage.

There are plenty of fuses to tap into that are only on when the ignition is on though. I tap one of my fuses (the tailgate/camera power) for the marker light power with an adapter that holds 2 mini fuses, one to replace the original fuse, the 2nd to feed a wire to my marker.

 

[K7MDL]

Many of us replace the camper power breaker with a switched version such as a Blue Sea Systems 287 type - both in the camper and the engine bay.

 

[Jon R]

I can’t imagine that a 2022 Tundra doesn’t have a smart alternator. You can identify it yourself with a voltmeter.

When I listed the possible uses of the second small wire I didn’t think about them potentially running an ignition on signal to the camper for controlling an ACR or DC to DC charger. That makes sense, although you won’t need to use it if you use a Victron DC to DC charger and adequate sized wire. The engine running detection on Victron chargers is sophisticated enough that you usually don’t need an ignition on signal. You can read about it in the Victron Orion chargers manual.

When FWC says the camper wired for shore power is “incompatible” with an installed inverter, they simply mean they have the internal 120 VAC receptacles wired to shore power via the circuit breaker panel. You could easily install an inverter and change that.

 

[The Fawker]

I can’t imagine that a 2022 Tundra doesn’t have a smart alternator. You can identify it yourself with a voltmeter.

When I listed the possible uses of the second small wire I didn’t think about them potentially running an ignition on signal to the camper for controlling an ACR or DC to DC charger. That makes sense, although you won’t need to use it if you use a Victron DC to DC charger and adequate sized wire. The engine running detection on Victron chargers is sophisticated enough that you usually don’t need an ignition on signal. You can read about it in the Victron Orion chargers manual.

I currently do not have a Victron DC-DC charger. My 2024 Hawk has the REDARC BCDC1225 for solar and truck charging, and everything else that comes standard on the newer ones (minus lithium). According to the BCDC1225 manual, there's a wire for D+ for idle-stop vehicles as an input trigger; I think I'll tap into the seat heater in the fuse panel for that since I don't have seat heaters.

Eventually, I'll want to upgrade from AGM to LiFePo batteries, a Victron DC-DC charger, bigger cables, etc. for long stays in the camper, but for now - for shorter trips planned - we're in a good spot with the existing setup.

 

[K7MDL]

Many of us replace the camper power breaker with a switched version such as a Blue Sea Systems 287 type - both in the camper and the engine bay.

Correction not 287, but the 285 series. Surface mount. There is a panel mount version also. Replaces the 185 series. 25A to 150A sizes.