New Hawk Shell project

parrotcam

New Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2023
Messages
7
Hello wanderers,

I've been reading through the forum with interest after we finally made the decision a few months ago to purchase a Hawk shell model. We have a RAM 1500 that we originally purchased for the towing package included and then ultimately decided we really didn't want to tow a trailer. So instead we have a truck with fairly low bed weight capacity into which we will install the Hawk.

I will build out the cabinetry, electrical and water systems with weight constraints continually top of mind. But since we are new to this particular kind of camping, we will try to work with a more minimal setup initially to discover what our actual camping practice seems to be.

Nevertheless, I have begun modeling the layout to evaluate the design constraints. With measurements from a display model at our dealer in hand, I prepared a 3D model in Fusion 360 to start working it out. Although still very much in schematic form, I have hopefully attached some screen captures of the design in progress. I ended up with insufficient measurements for the drivers side window, but all of this will be refined when I have our shell on hand and can confirm the actual measurements.

Our Camper view 1.png

There are a lot of layers in the model and I am constantly altering visibility and transparency to check progress. The first view is without the shell showing cabinetry, electrical, part of the water system and the fridge.

Our Camper view 2.png

The second view gives a sense of the layout with front dinette and cabinets. On the right is a tall cabinet (to be determined if it is doors or drawers) with a space below for a custom toilet and additional storage on a slide/roll out unit. Next in from that is the ICECO APL55 with a lightweight cutting board attached to the top with a small cabinet above and behind for kitchen items. On top of both that small cabinet and the tall cabinet to the right are additional work surfaces. The door on the fridge hinges on the right and the cutting board can remain in place or be moved to the opposite work surface. Just beyond the fridge is the passenger side seat.

Our Camper view 3.png

The next image shows the opposite side work surface and cabinet. We haven't chosen a sink as yet, but it will be under mounted with a removable work surface above. There will not be a permanently installed stove at his point. The space between the fridge and window will be used for soft storage (pillows, clothing, etc). Below left in the driver's side cabinet behind a hired door will be an interchangeable water tank with submersible pump to be used with a switch style faucet. I've already built a cap-mounted arrangement for the pump system that can be easily switched from one tank to another (spares carried in the truck or outside the camper shell). The minimal space adjacent to the water tank will hold a small grey water tank for occasion use when no outside tank might be appropriate.

To the right of that is a shallow depth cabinet area that may be a hinged pantry door or space for storing implements on the back side of the door. There is also access to the hold down door.
Just below the work surface is another as yet undefined area likely to be drawers and an access door for the Propex heater. (All of the camper's lower panels will be hinged, sliding or easily removable via DZUS fasteners or equivalent.)

You can also see the sub panel against the front camper wall. The bottom half of that is a pair of hinged doors providing access to the electrical compartment. A pair of new Li Time small format 100aH batteries will share that space with the FWC provided Redarc BCDC, misc connection components, an invertor and a shore power battery charger. That's the tentative plan anyway. It was changed from using a Manager 30 when I discovered the BCDC was being supplied. Once again, since we don't know what our actual camping practice will be, it seemed prudent to try the supplied BCDC before committing to the more expensive setup. There will be 400 watts of solar - one fixed 200 watt panel and one portable 200 watt panel with room for one more fixed 200 if that proves necessary. We live in the PNW but love our old turf in the 4 corners area, so solar requirements are uncertain.

Above that may be a shallow depth storage area (undertermined configuration) for misc kitchen items, books, etc. It would contain any controls or displays for the electrical system an a possible second heating duct system for delivering air beneath the mattress. We will be using one of the various systems available for spacing the mattress above the floor of the camper overhang. A perforation pattern cut into the sliding mattress support panel would deliver warm area under the bed.

Not shown in these views is the slot at floor level below the driver's side seat through which the main supply of heated air will be delivered to the interior. A two position panel will support the seat back cushions in bed mode for the dinette and provide a slightly elevated floor when the dinette is in seating mode. The heated air would then be directed under that floor panel towards the back of the interior of the camper.

Our Camper view 4.png

Another view shows everything from year another angle. We plan on having a variety of soft storage panels attached via the velcro from the thermal pack for additional food and personal items.

Since this post is long enough already, I'll reserve my many questions and further details about the plan for another post.

Happy Wandering.
 
1807 lbs total including occupants and cargo listed on the tires label. 7100 lbs listed as GVWR on the main label. Haven't been to the CAT scales yet, but the transfer station weight with the two of us and a nearly full tank of gas left 1420 lbs for additional payload based upon the 7100 lb value. Can't seem to find it at the moment, but somewhere in our docs is a delivered weight for the shell of something just under 800 lbs as I recall. So I will be on the weight watchers program.

Already have Timber Grove air bags in place. Will wait for further use data before addressing possible shock upgrade.
 
I don’t do well with visualizations like this, but some of my $0.02 would be:
- Keep your fridge as close to the front of the camper as possible to avoid fridge/freezer contents self-emptying on big bounces, gravel roads
- Route your wiring/plumbing through accessible/removable panels for easier re-work/maintenance
- insulate the floor. We used 1/2” rigid foam under the subfloor and vinyl flooring.
- lights… lots of lights and light coloured wood/fabrics… the camper is a dark place to be on a rainy/stormy day/night without that
 
Research your construction materials to save weight on those cabinets, they'll add up quickly.
 
+1 to what Beach said. I like 1/2" baltic birch (9+ layers) for strength/weight.

I would also caution against building cabinets in such a way that you create a "galley". It is one of the reasons we built a shell, to have a lot more open space inside.
 
Vic Harder said:
I don’t do well with visualizations like this, but some of my $0.02 would be:
- Keep your fridge as close to the front of the camper as possible to avoid fridge/freezer contents self-emptying on big bounces, gravel roads
- Route your wiring/plumbing through accessible/removable panels for easier re-work/maintenance
- insulate the floor. We used 1/2” rigid foam under the subfloor and vinyl flooring.
- lights… lots of lights and light coloured wood/fabrics… the camper is a dark place to be on a rainy/stormy day/night without that
So you glue a sheet of foam to the bottom from the outside?
 
Vic Harder said:
I don’t do well with visualizations like this, but some of my $0.02 would be:
- Keep your fridge as close to the front of the camper as possible to avoid fridge/freezer contents self-emptying on big bounces, gravel roads
- Route your wiring/plumbing through accessible/removable panels for easier re-work/maintenance
- insulate the floor. We used 1/2” rigid foam under the subfloor and vinyl flooring.
- lights… lots of lights and light coloured wood/fabrics… the camper is a dark place to be on a rainy/stormy day/night without that
Thanks Vic!
A front dinette arrangement is pretty fixed for our plans, so the top opening fridge is as far forward as it can be in the layout.
The electrical system will have very open access. I definitely consider that a must.
I am 6’5”, so its doubtful any addition to the floor height would be welcome. I have seen a couple of examples of external insulation between the structural members, which does have the thermal bridging issue, but better perhaps than none at all.
Lights, lights and more lights! Will probably add some in the cabinetry to supplement the four that come with the shell.
Dark (high) countertops with light colored cabinet fronts is the current plan.
 
Vic Harder said:
+1 to what Beach said. I like 1/2" baltic birch (9+ layers) for strength/weight.

I would also caution against building cabinets in such a way that you create a "galley". It is one of the reasons we built a shell, to have a lot more open space inside.
The cabinets will be very light and very strong and not built like they belong in a house. The galley is likely due to the inevitable compromises of laying out such a space, which in our case, argues for a front dinette arrangement. That said, we will use the shell with very little modification using some preliminary mockups for a while just to make sure our camping practice aligns with our design intentions. Everything remains on the table . . . Lagun, probably :)
 
Hi Kurt,
Welcome to Hawk Shell world! We've had ours for 10 yrs and couldn't be happier.
Is your Ram an Etorque? I'm asking because the 2024 Ram 1500 I just bought to replace our 2004 Tundra is an Etorque and I'm having some trepidation about hooking up my camper's lithium setup in the new truck. I didn't realize this truck doesn't have an alternator and that instead it has a generator that powers the 48v batt which in turn charges the 12v starter battery.
My Ram dealer says don't do it. It sounds like FWC did your install and, if you have an Etorque, it probably means it's safe to do. If yours is not an Etorque then you probably have an alternator and it is a much more straightforward install. I'd rather not ignore the dealer's advice unless I know it has worked for someone else. Thanks,
Robert
 
you seem to be covering a lot of bases. one minor comment - is the heater will throw out plenty of heat for the small space, and i dont think much of any ductwork is necessary. u are on the right forum for your effort.
 

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