New Shell Questions

[georgeofthedesert]

Hello,
I have a new Swift Shell I picked up on Thursday last week after waiting 18 months. I'm super pumped to start using it, but have some questions from folks that have a shell and have done some additions to the interiors (or folks that have done similar with fully loaded ones as well).

1) Fridge - I ordered an Iceco 12v fridge that is going in one of three spots. The first thought is on the floor under the cab window, the second is on the side next to the stove (we have the stove/furnace) going wide along most of that side area, and the third is in the same spot but the fridge would go sticking out into the "hall way" next to the stove. With that how have folks mounted the fridges to either the floor or the side? I know most use D rings or eye bolts to strap the handles down, which I get and seems easy. However how were those D rings and/or eye bolts mounted/attached? Since I assume they are screwed in I want to make sure I do it right, and I'm not making a bunch of holes in my new camper because of mistakes. For example did you look for the "studs" and anchor to the aluminum studs or just strew them in wherever they needed to be? Also I'm not sure how thick anything is, so what size screws did you use for that? Was there a mounting reason or concern that made you chose where you put yours, for example the side has a piece of wood that you can screw into vs the floor where you are just going into the aluminum.

2) Fridge wiring - I have an open slot in the fuse panel/block that I am thinking of attaching a another 12v cigarette lighter connection and using that to plug the fridge into. Has anyone else done it like that before? Am I better off just making the 12v cable go straight from the fridge to the fuse block and not do the additional connector? I want a fuse between the fridge and the battery and I don't want to use the 12v connector under the stove since that will stick out. So I'm really really trying to use the fuse block. If you ran the power cable from the fridge to the fuse block area, where did you run that cable to get it in there?

3) Screen door - On the screen door I think the plastic sliding part or the stationary clear plastic part is too short, I'm not sure which one it is though. When I close the slider all the way there is about an inch gap between the end of the sliding piece and the stationary piece. I can stick my fingers and most of my hand straight through it. Has anyone else had this issue. I called and emailed the dealer I bought from on Friday but haven't heard back. The dealer is like 3 hours away so it's not super easy to just drop by and be like what's up with this.

4) Storage - We might have 1-4 weeks between trips. The plan is to disconnect the fridge on those gaps, however I wasn't sure if I should cut all of the power with that main power shutoff push/pull knob thing. I feel like if it was longer than 4 weeks yeah turn everything off, but if it's only going to be 1-4 I'm not sure if it matters

 

[astropuppy]

We have a Hawk shell. Our fridge is simply velcro to the carpet on the driver's side. A idea I found on these forums. We trap the sleeping cushions between the top of the fridge and the bottom of the partially pulled out bunk when traveling. Only time it's been a issue was traversing a Boulder field. The whole camper contents where tossed like a salad. For power I ran directly to the battery with a in-line fuse, coming out above the furnace intake in the stove compartment. I turn everything off when not in use. Enjoy!

 

[JWL]

I have a Hawk Shell so things might be a little different and in the over two years I’ve had it I have moved things around quite a bit. I think I am close to having it finalized though.
I also have an Iceco fridge, mine is the JP50 so it might be smaller or bigger than yours. I would say to not do anything real permanent yet if you can but go out a couple of times and get a feel for what works and what doesn’t and then try it again.
what I have settled on is keeping my fridge on the floor. I also made a “bench” that spans the two benches at the front by the cab. Going down the road the fridge sits out next to the bench behind the furnace, so we can get in it. When we are in the camper and unloaded it is slid under the bench out of the way. (I use carpet on the bottom so it slides and eye pads on the cabinet to strap it down while traveling.
For power I use a Bluetti EB70 primarily just for the fridge and it has AC if we need it to charge electronics etc. I plug the Bluetti into the cigarette socket to charge going down the road and pass through to the fridge or the solar during the day if need be. I found the Iceco cigarette sockets to be too unreliable and plug it into 5mm (?) socket on the Bluetti.
I like this set up because everything can be unloaded when we get home and the fridge can be used at home or in another vehicle.
I hope that all made sense.
I like this set up because everything can be in

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

GOTD, I like footman’s loops for securing gear and equipment in my shell.

Strapworks is a good reliable source for those kinds of things.

 

[veryactivelife]

I think that you’ll want to secure the fridge in a downward direction rather than to the sides. There is no frame in the floor or carpeted benches, just plywood.

I have a second fridge in my cab which I wired back to the camper fuse block. I kept the 12v plug on the fridge so it can be used elsewhere. I used the ARB fridge wiring harness.

Something is definitely off with the screen door slider. It’s hard to believe that it left the factory that way.

Unless you have solar to keep the batteries topped up you should disconnect using the kill switch. It’s surprising how much the co/propane alarm drains. Longer than 3 to 4 weeks I would use a battery maintainer or plug into shore power if you have it.

Dean

 

[TacomaAustin]

3) Screen door - On the screen door I think the plastic sliding part or the stationary clear plastic part is too short, I'm not sure which one it is though. When I close the slider all the way there is about an inch gap between the end of the sliding piece and the stationary piece. I can stick my fingers and most of my hand straight through it. Has anyone else had this issue. I called and emailed the dealer I bought from on Friday but haven't heard back. The dealer is like 3 hours away so it's not super easy to just drop by and be like what's up with this.

Do a search on Amazon for a "RV screen door slide stop" - My guess is that your screen door is missing this piece.

https://www.amazon.com/White-Screen-Slide-Durable-Replacement/dp/B08HXYQLTG/ref=sr_1_9?crid=32O8ETGHV93BD&keywords=rv+screen+door+slide+stop&qid=1673979231&s=automotive&sprefix=Screen+door+slide%2Cautomotive%2C116&sr=1-9

 

[georgeofthedesert]

thanks for the replies. The velcro is something I have been thinking of. It was an old video from Soft roading the west where he took the fridge out of his forester and almost couldn't because of how well the velcro was sticking. So that is also in the back of my mind, just using velcro. However I have a feeling the adhesive for it going to be even harder to get off if I want to move it a year later and do something else with whatever spot it's in. However I still haven't abandoned that thought yet.

The mounts (d-rings, eye bolts, or what @Wander Sagebrush suggested) will be on the bottom somewhere. I'm not sure if the bottom is the floor or the side bench part yet. I'm still trying to figure that out and wasn't sure I could just screw the mounts into either the floor or side bench thing. That way it's always pulling the fridge down and keeping it pretty secure. Did everyone just screw those mounts to your camper or did you drill holes and use small bolts? With vibrations I wasn't sure if the screws would walk out or just vibrate the hole enough where it strips the hole and the mount breaks free.

I'm definitely going out at least a handful of times before I really do anything with the interior. I have two friends with Granby's. Both got them as the full models, not shells, and both gutted them to completely re-arrange the interiors. Their advice was get the shell use it a bunch of times then figure out your interior setup. So that's the route I'm going with it.


I talked with the dealer I got the FWC today and they are working on what to do. They are thinking of seeing if the FWC factory will just make a longer slider. They had another person call with the same issue. That door slide stop is interesting, I wonder if that is what's missing. Either way the dealer working with the FWC factory on a fix for it.

Another question I forgot to ask in my original post is what are people doing to lock the turn buckles in place? The dealer told me to check every 50 to 100 miles no matter what. I originally thought it was just after putting the camper back on the truck and after that just make sure every once and a while it's good, but that isn't the case. I'm hoping I can do something like a lock nut to keep them in place. When doing long trips like Raleigh, NC to Death Valley I don't want to have to stop every 100 miles to check those....

-George

 

[Vic Harder]

I’d put the fridge as far forward as possible, and as low as possible. That helps avoid tossed fridge contents on rough roads.

 

[goinoregon]

i would recommend getting in some camping trips before you get too far into locating/securing things. my ideas changed quite a bit after a few camp trips.

i used L-Track along each side of my 'hallway', to secure cabinet frames, and fridge. i secured the track to floor with nutserts, so i could get a few in on each side. in this way, you are not counting on one screw or d-ring to hold the fridge. velcro is great, but i would not use for +30-50lbs of loaded fridge.

i am not a big fan of the 'cigarette' lighter 12v outlets. too much faith in a friction fitting - on a camper. that will see gravel roads and vibration. i used a Powerlet outlet/plug for fridge, as it is a bit more secure.

and it is not too difficult to locate another fuse block in your camper. maybe on the other side? helps keep the wiring less busy, and does not take up much room at all.
good luck
go

 

[goinoregon]

i would recommend getting in some camping trips before you get too far into locating/securing things. my ideas changed quite a bit after a few camp trips.

i used L-Track along each side of my 'hallway', to secure cabinet frames, and fridge. i secured the track to floor with nutserts, so i could get a few in on each side. in this way, you are not counting on one screw or d-ring to hold the fridge. velcro is great, but i would not use for +30-50lbs of loaded fridge.

i am not a big fan of the 'cigarette' lighter 12v outlets. too much faith in a friction fitting - on a camper. that will see gravel roads and vibration. i used a Powerlet outlet/plug for fridge, as it is a bit more secure.

and it is not too difficult to locate another fuse block in your camper. maybe on the other side? helps keep the wiring less busy, and does not take up much room at all.
good luck
go

 

[Sagebrusher]

1) Made a simple aluminum/wood holder and spacer that screws to the bench to secure my fridge and keep my extra cushions from sliding forward on the bench and blocking the vents.
2) I used the spare slot in the fuse block and put an AC and 12v plug in a plastic junction box near the front passenger side bench where my 2-way 31Q Indel fridge is. That way I can easily unplug it to remove it and make the lower bed maximum size. Ran both cables across the floor below the front window in a flexible plastic conduit.
3) Agree, something is goofy with the slider.
4) We wipe out the fridge and prop it open to dry thoroughly between trips, but that leaves the light on so we always hit the kill switch. The CO/LP detector will definitely drain you battery unless you have a maintenance charge.
5) I check turnbuckles maybe ever few days, certainly after rough roads and in 4 years they have never been loose after the first trip. I think I'd get lock-nuts if they ever loosened more than once or twice.
Congrats! And enjoy!

 

[57Pan]

In reference to your turnbuckles, you can easily use a locknut. One side is reverse thread and the other is normal, obviously just get some nuts that fit the normal side of the turnbuckles. That is what I have done on mine, works great.

 

[Jon R]

In reference to your turnbuckles, you can easily use a locknut. One side is reverse thread and the other is normal, obviously just get some nuts that fit the normal side of the turnbuckles. That is what I have done on mine, works great.

After discovering one of my turnbuckles loose after a long drive on windy roads, I installed wing nuts as lock nuts. No tools are required to tighten them of course, and they have never come loose since I added them. It’s cheap and easy peace of mind.

 

[Old Crow]

I use zip ties to prevent turnbuckles from turning. I think of the screw threads of the end fittings as a ramp and the body of the turnbuckle (the center part) 'wants' to follow the ramp in the loosening direction as it's bounced about. It's only friction that prevents that. Locknuts seem to stop it for most but I also know that a few owners use safety wire and a few of us use zip ties (either alone or in addition to locknuts)

I bought an el cheapo safety wire kit to try but that seemed clumsy to use in that restricted space so I turned to zip ties.

For my Hawk, I use heavy-duty zip ties from Lowe's. These Utilitech 18-inch ones are about 3/8" wide, have a weight rating of 175 pounds, are UV-protected, have plenty of temperature range in both directions, and are about 60 cents each. These are probably overkill for the purpose. I also use turnbuckles on the bed-frame in my van and just use regular zip-ties on those.

I guess the argument against zip ties and safety wires is that they have to be cut to remove and owners who take the camper off frequently would prefer not to mess with them.

Some owners also add wooden blocks or boards in the bed of the truck to limit side-ways movement of the camper. The combination of loose turnbuckles and a shift of the camper apparently can sometimes cause a turnbuckle hook to come off an attachment point or bend the hook.

Also- I swapped out the stock turnbuckles for forged ones--- Torklift S9012 4-pack on Amazon.

 

[ramblinChet]

Hello GOTD,

I am nearby in Virginia and have made some similar upgrades. Here is a picture of my interior:

If you PM me I will be happy to provide a link which has additional details and pictures. I stopped updating my thread here since uploading pictures just takes too long. Maybe I am not doing it correctly.