New (to me) camper

[surfib]

Some may have rembered I was the one trying to get that monster 70's era camper of my rig so that I could put a new ATC camper on when I get it ordered. Well as I was getting ready to cut a check (sorry Ben) and my boss called and asked if I wanted his old FWC Keystone. $900 later, I have a new camper. Big props go to Ben for answering all my questions. Hands down some of the best service I have ever recieved! I may still head out there and see if he can do a few add-ons for the Keystone.

For some reason, the truck has alot more sag in it compared to the last camper even though it is about 1000lbs lighter. Maybe because the fridge/furnace and water tank are on the rear half of the axle this time around.

 

[simimike]

Nice rig. Did you park the old camper in Baja as you planed? Welcome to the wonderful world of FWC.

 

[John D]

I believe you will be delighted with your Keystone. We certainly are with ours. In some ways, an old Keystone is the ultimate FWC. You can upgrade and repair it as needed. I believe Ben and Marty are the best people to do this for you, when or if you want to do so. The quality of the work they did for me is first class. The analogy with a car would be as if you could get the General Motors Tech Center to work on your old Corvette.

How did you get your old camper off your truck?

 

[EdoHart]

Looks great

That looks like a very capable rig and a great price too!

 

[benburnett]

new rig

Congrats on the buy. I'll bet you still end up a customer at some point though. Now go out and enjoy the new camper. Let us know how it does.

 

[erod]

thats a monster! love to see some interior photos! looks great on that truck!

 

[surfib]

As for getting the old one off, I used the Reico Titan Camper jacks, an easy pedal, and a lot of eyes. Ended up doing it in my buddies nice, flat driveway. Gave it to my other buddy to use to live in so he can save up money and not have rent since his fiance is due in a few months. We will still end up leaving it in Baja, just at a later date.

Here is an inside shot:

The wiring you see if from the first owner, he decided to run the 12 volt wiring outside of the camper instead of drilling holes under the seats to get it to the battery. My first task at hand. Everything works great, but I'm scared to use the furnace. I'm sure I can find a place to do an overhaul on it, but where I go, I won't ever have to use it.

Also, how hard is it to do a Yakima track install? Do you to take off the upper interior paneling? I'm afraid if I take it apart, things are bound to go wrong.

 

[erod]

wondering about the rack install as well...let me know what you find out and i'll do the same...pretty sure you don't have to remove the panels and i think you usr the holes that are alredy rilled holding the roof panels on...

 

[benburnett]

Yakima install

To install a Yakima track system on the roof, lay out your tracks along the first line of screws that you see going down the roof. These should be in about a foot from the sides of the roof. Take out the screws that the track will be covering up and fill each hole with silicone. Put your track in place where the screws were and screw it down along the same line. Put a drop of silicone in each spot that you are going to put a screw to seal it. Once the tracks are on, you should find that the 66" bars fit well. The distance between the racks should come out to about 56". I know they make some 58" bars but we have never used them. Would rather have the extra length than to come up short on something.

 

[erod]

thanks ben, do you use the same screws that are already on the roof or ue yakima screws?

 

[benburnett]

yakima rack

We use the same screws that are in the roof, but we don't use the ones we took out, we use new ones. They should be a #8 screw, hex head, 3/4" long.

You can double check that when you pull one out.

 

[erod]

nice, thanks ben. just scored the 54" tracks...really stoked, a friend just had them sitting around so he gave them to me...beers on the way for him for sure...sooooo, i remove the original roof screws, fill the original holes with silicone then screw NEW holes into the roof, through the track, on the same crossmember as the original roof screws??? just want to make sure i don't reuse the original holes...i guess i shoulf just get up there and have a look. its ok to be up on the roof? thanks ben, as always.

 

[benburnett]

yakima mount

You seem to have the idea. If you going to be on the roof, put a piece of wood on top for you to kneel on or stand on so that it will spread out the weight. If you have to be on the roof without anything, be sure to walk on the beams of the roof. If you step in between the ribs it tends to put dents in the roof.

If you would like a better explanation about all of this, feel free to call anytime.

800-446-1003

 

[surfib]

Thanks for the info Ben. I have the standard rack on there right now. I'll probably take off the front pole and run the tracks in front of the rear rack. It a nice looking rack for fire wood. Same question as Erod though, I saw the screws you are talking about though tonight.

Mike

 

[erod]

thats really good info ben, thanks...think i'll give you a call when i get into it...most likely some evening this week or weekend...

 

[surfib]

Jeez, just posted and already got the answer. Perfect. Thanks again Ben. Also, are the furnaces rebuildable or is new a better route, If I end up keeping it, I want to be safe. As of right now, I have no need for it, but you never know...

 

[benburnett]

Furnance

First question would be, have you tried to use the furnace yet?

Most older furnaces work fine. Every now and then we find that you have to pull the exhaust and clean it because of a wasp nest or something blocking it.

They are rebuild-able. If you contact Atwood, they should be able to point you to a repair center in your area that can do that for you. At least get an estimate for a rebuild and compare it to the cost of a new one.