Hey guys- just bought a four wheel....older model. Need to repair the lift system in the front. wood is pulling away from the hinges. Can some one help me. I live in eastern Colorado and have no clue where to go to get it fixed or if need be can some one coach me on how to fix myself? Thanks!
repair help
- Thread starter kevin1
- Start date
Barko1
Senior Member
We should all meet and have a repair party, mine needs it as well.
BSS
Contributors
Do a search on this. If I remember correctly, someone posted a pretty thorough walk through on this very repair not too long ago.
Stan@FourWheel
Senior Member
You might want to try calling Five Star RV Center.
We met then at the show in Nebraska a few years ago.
They seemed to be doing a good amount of business repairing & fixing up some of the older four wheel campers.
Here is their web site ...
http://www.fivestarrv.com/
=======================================================================================
Hey guys- just bought a four wheel....older model. Need to repair the lift system in the front. wood is pulling away from the hinges. Can some one help me. I live in eastern Colorado and have no clue where to go to get it fixed or if need be can some one coach me on how to fix myself? Thanks!
.
We met then at the show in Nebraska a few years ago.
They seemed to be doing a good amount of business repairing & fixing up some of the older four wheel campers.
Here is their web site ...
http://www.fivestarrv.com/
=======================================================================================
Hey guys- just bought a four wheel....older model. Need to repair the lift system in the front. wood is pulling away from the hinges. Can some one help me. I live in eastern Colorado and have no clue where to go to get it fixed or if need be can some one coach me on how to fix myself? Thanks!
.
jmodge
Senior Member
Kevin,
I just replaced mine this winter and posted a picture of the fixture I made to hold the hinges compressed to install the fixture. It worked pretty well. I get my internet access from the Library or shop computor so I can't post any more photos, I don't think. I can mail you prints of what I did and the dimensions that were critical when making the panel.
I can probably put some photos on a CD also. I check my email about once a week. Let me know.
I just replaced mine this winter and posted a picture of the fixture I made to hold the hinges compressed to install the fixture. It worked pretty well. I get my internet access from the Library or shop computor so I can't post any more photos, I don't think. I can mail you prints of what I did and the dimensions that were critical when making the panel.
I can probably put some photos on a CD also. I check my email about once a week. Let me know.
Dughlas Stiubhart
It's good to be Stew
Kevin,
I just replaced mine this winter and posted a picture of the fixture I made to hold the hinges compressed to install the fixture. It worked pretty well. I get my internet access from the Library or shop computor so I can't post any more photos, I don't think. I can mail you prints of what I did and the dimensions that were critical when making the panel.
I can probably put some photos on a CD also. I check my email about once a week. Let me know.
Here is a link to your fixture for the lift-panel, jmodge: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2765/page__hl__end
I just replaced mine this winter and posted a picture of the fixture I made to hold the hinges compressed to install the fixture. It worked pretty well. I get my internet access from the Library or shop computor so I can't post any more photos, I don't think. I can mail you prints of what I did and the dimensions that were critical when making the panel.
I can probably put some photos on a CD also. I check my email about once a week. Let me know.
Here is a link to your fixture for the lift-panel, jmodge: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2765/page__hl__end
Kevin,
I just replaced mine this winter and posted a picture of the fixture I made to hold the hinges compressed to install the fixture. It worked pretty well. I get my internet access from the Library or shop computor so I can't post any more photos, I don't think. I can mail you prints of what I did and the dimensions that were critical when making the panel.
I can probably put some photos on a CD also. I check my email about once a week. Let me know.
Thanks, any info I can get would be appreciated. you can send a CD to me at 2500 main st.
Lamar Co 81052 How long did it take to replace them?
I just replaced mine this winter and posted a picture of the fixture I made to hold the hinges compressed to install the fixture. It worked pretty well. I get my internet access from the Library or shop computor so I can't post any more photos, I don't think. I can mail you prints of what I did and the dimensions that were critical when making the panel.
I can probably put some photos on a CD also. I check my email about once a week. Let me know.
Thanks, any info I can get would be appreciated. you can send a CD to me at 2500 main st.
Lamar Co 81052 How long did it take to replace them?
jmodge
Senior Member
Kevin,
I worked at mine for an hour or two at a time over a two week period. I know the steps now and could do it in a day other than time to put a finish on the wood and sideliner repair. A couple boards placed vetically on the sides up front to support the top. To remove the old panel I had to drill out the rivets and remove screws that held the panel to the camper frame. 1/8 holes, do not over drill the hole diameter, if you do you will have to drill out the hinge to match. Screws are used in place of the rivets for reassembly.
An ample clear work space is a must. Lay the panel out and measure and record your hole to hole dimensions vertically. Draw a print and record. Digital photos help too. Pay attention to your wire access hole and the elastic straps that pull the side liners in so they fold when the top is lowered(I replaced these also.)Writing notes on the hinges with sharpies for location references came in handy also. Do not mix them up.
My sideliners had some damage from the wood fragments scraping the liner over the years before I bought it. The hinge straightens out and scrapes the liner. Good reason to fix the lift panel, I imagine those liners are expensive and it looks like a job to replace them. I got the thinnest vinyl fabric I could find and adhered it in strips just wide enough to cover the damaged liner at top and bottom with spray adhesive. Not a Picasso, but Picasso doesn't borrow my camper.
I used the hinges for a fixture to drill out the new panels. Save your old panels for patterns and pay attention to left to right alignment of your hinge mounting holes. Otherwise you will be drilling new mounting holes in the camper frame to mount the assembly back in.FIY, the rear panel makes a good reference as mine were typical of one another. I gotta go, but i will get back to you on the fixture and mail you a print of mine. Take your time and do it once and enjoy it forever.
I worked at mine for an hour or two at a time over a two week period. I know the steps now and could do it in a day other than time to put a finish on the wood and sideliner repair. A couple boards placed vetically on the sides up front to support the top. To remove the old panel I had to drill out the rivets and remove screws that held the panel to the camper frame. 1/8 holes, do not over drill the hole diameter, if you do you will have to drill out the hinge to match. Screws are used in place of the rivets for reassembly.
An ample clear work space is a must. Lay the panel out and measure and record your hole to hole dimensions vertically. Draw a print and record. Digital photos help too. Pay attention to your wire access hole and the elastic straps that pull the side liners in so they fold when the top is lowered(I replaced these also.)Writing notes on the hinges with sharpies for location references came in handy also. Do not mix them up.
My sideliners had some damage from the wood fragments scraping the liner over the years before I bought it. The hinge straightens out and scrapes the liner. Good reason to fix the lift panel, I imagine those liners are expensive and it looks like a job to replace them. I got the thinnest vinyl fabric I could find and adhered it in strips just wide enough to cover the damaged liner at top and bottom with spray adhesive. Not a Picasso, but Picasso doesn't borrow my camper.
I used the hinges for a fixture to drill out the new panels. Save your old panels for patterns and pay attention to left to right alignment of your hinge mounting holes. Otherwise you will be drilling new mounting holes in the camper frame to mount the assembly back in.FIY, the rear panel makes a good reference as mine were typical of one another. I gotta go, but i will get back to you on the fixture and mail you a print of mine. Take your time and do it once and enjoy it forever.
craig333
Riley's Human
/print. Thanks for the info. God willing I'll never need it but nothing lasts forever.
jmodge
Senior Member
Kevin,
I just found my file with the photos, I thought I deleted them. I will send you a CD soon. There is a gal on another thread with some interest in replacing a lift panel. If you want to upload some photos after you get them, go ahead.
I just found my file with the photos, I thought I deleted them. I will send you a CD soon. There is a gal on another thread with some interest in replacing a lift panel. If you want to upload some photos after you get them, go ahead.
Kevin,
I just found my file with the photos, I thought I deleted them. I will send you a CD soon. There is a gal on another thread with some interest in replacing a lift panel. If you want to upload some photos after you get them, go ahead.
Thank you very very much, I've got cabin fever right now so I'm getting ready to tackle it when you can get me the info. Thanks again. Keep your eyes open as I might need to contact you with questions during the undertaking of the project...
I just found my file with the photos, I thought I deleted them. I will send you a CD soon. There is a gal on another thread with some interest in replacing a lift panel. If you want to upload some photos after you get them, go ahead.
Thank you very very much, I've got cabin fever right now so I'm getting ready to tackle it when you can get me the info. Thanks again. Keep your eyes open as I might need to contact you with questions during the undertaking of the project...
jmodge
Senior Member
Kevin
The photos I have are all of construction of the lift panel and the installation fixture. I have none of assembly or disassembly, so to start I would suggest a dry spot where you can set up the camper and leave it that way for awhile. Prop the top up with 2x's along the sides up front out of your way. Pick a spot where there are rails meeting the frame for strength. You are going to have to pound in wedges below the 2x's to stretch the material during installation, I did anyway. Almost one inch, and that material is tuff stuff! At first I thought I made my lift panel one inch too long, but it wasn't. Plan on having help installing it.
Once you have boards between the top and lower section, note where your power wire to the overhead light is,which you want to deal with now, and you should have three elastic straps near the center hinge that pull the material in as you lower the top. Two of mine were rotted. I just cut them, as I was planning on replacing them anyway. You can drill the rivets out of the panel on the bench where there is no chance of drilling through the side liner. Drilling the rivets out of the liner, which I did during the installation, will take two people. One inside with a drill and one outside with a board backing the rivet. The power wire I left intact, I just ripped open the access hole in the panel and slid the wire out of the way.
Now you are ready to remove the lift panel. On mine the bottom hinge was screwed in and the upper needed to be drilled out as it was riveted. When installing the new panel, I used screws in the top, so do not open the holes any larger when removing the rivets. The holes were 1/8 inch. Take care removing the old panel, as you will want a reference point side to side for lining up the hinge to drill holes in the new panels. If you do not attatch the upper and lower hinges in the same relation side to side on the new panels, your frame holes will not line up.
Now you need a bench to work on. I would reccomend a sacrificial piece of plywood to work on as you will be drilling out a lot of rivets and drilling in to whatever your panel is sitting on.
When you remove hinges and the track for the upper locking mechanism, take a sharpie and draw arrows pointing up and note weather your hinges are bottom, center, or top. On the backside where they won't show. Notes on the old panels won't hurt either. It saves alot of head scratching later. Unless you write your reference wrong, which I did on one hinge. The rear panel can be used as reference also, mine were mirror images.
Gotta go, this will get you a start. Also, I had a local lumber yard rip some 1/4 birch panels to width for me. I had to get them home in a Ford Focus. I do not remember the widths offhand. I will look up my notes and get back to you.
The photos I have are all of construction of the lift panel and the installation fixture. I have none of assembly or disassembly, so to start I would suggest a dry spot where you can set up the camper and leave it that way for awhile. Prop the top up with 2x's along the sides up front out of your way. Pick a spot where there are rails meeting the frame for strength. You are going to have to pound in wedges below the 2x's to stretch the material during installation, I did anyway. Almost one inch, and that material is tuff stuff! At first I thought I made my lift panel one inch too long, but it wasn't. Plan on having help installing it.
Once you have boards between the top and lower section, note where your power wire to the overhead light is,which you want to deal with now, and you should have three elastic straps near the center hinge that pull the material in as you lower the top. Two of mine were rotted. I just cut them, as I was planning on replacing them anyway. You can drill the rivets out of the panel on the bench where there is no chance of drilling through the side liner. Drilling the rivets out of the liner, which I did during the installation, will take two people. One inside with a drill and one outside with a board backing the rivet. The power wire I left intact, I just ripped open the access hole in the panel and slid the wire out of the way.
Now you are ready to remove the lift panel. On mine the bottom hinge was screwed in and the upper needed to be drilled out as it was riveted. When installing the new panel, I used screws in the top, so do not open the holes any larger when removing the rivets. The holes were 1/8 inch. Take care removing the old panel, as you will want a reference point side to side for lining up the hinge to drill holes in the new panels. If you do not attatch the upper and lower hinges in the same relation side to side on the new panels, your frame holes will not line up.
Now you need a bench to work on. I would reccomend a sacrificial piece of plywood to work on as you will be drilling out a lot of rivets and drilling in to whatever your panel is sitting on.
When you remove hinges and the track for the upper locking mechanism, take a sharpie and draw arrows pointing up and note weather your hinges are bottom, center, or top. On the backside where they won't show. Notes on the old panels won't hurt either. It saves alot of head scratching later. Unless you write your reference wrong, which I did on one hinge. The rear panel can be used as reference also, mine were mirror images.
Gotta go, this will get you a start. Also, I had a local lumber yard rip some 1/4 birch panels to width for me. I had to get them home in a Ford Focus. I do not remember the widths offhand. I will look up my notes and get back to you.
jmodge
Senior Member
Kevin
I grabbed those dimensions and forgot to bring them to work. But you will have to go with whatever you have anyway. I think I said this somewhere already, but I will point it out again because it is critical. Before drilling out your rivets make a print. Take care to measure your center to center dimensions of the rivet holes where they fasten TO THE PANEL. The overall height as well as the center hinge from either the top or bottom hinge. Also take care to mount them parallel to one another. If your are not careful here it will not fold correctly, will bind, and not last very long. You will notice there is a difference of 1/2 or 5/8 of an inch between the spacing of the upper hinge to center hinge and lower hinge to center hinge. That is because they mount to the frame differently. The bottom hinge mounts on the side of the frame and the upper mounts to the bottom of the frame. At least mine does.
You will line them up side to side using the old panel as a guide when drilling your holes in the new panels. When you get the pics they will help show what I mean by this.
I grabbed those dimensions and forgot to bring them to work. But you will have to go with whatever you have anyway. I think I said this somewhere already, but I will point it out again because it is critical. Before drilling out your rivets make a print. Take care to measure your center to center dimensions of the rivet holes where they fasten TO THE PANEL. The overall height as well as the center hinge from either the top or bottom hinge. Also take care to mount them parallel to one another. If your are not careful here it will not fold correctly, will bind, and not last very long. You will notice there is a difference of 1/2 or 5/8 of an inch between the spacing of the upper hinge to center hinge and lower hinge to center hinge. That is because they mount to the frame differently. The bottom hinge mounts on the side of the frame and the upper mounts to the bottom of the frame. At least mine does.
You will line them up side to side using the old panel as a guide when drilling your holes in the new panels. When you get the pics they will help show what I mean by this.
Kevin
I grabbed those dimensions and forgot to bring them to work. But you will have to go with whatever you have anyway. I think I said this somewhere already, but I will point it out again because it is critical. Before drilling out your rivets make a print. Take care to measure your center to center dimensions of the rivet holes where they fasten TO THE PANEL. The overall height as well as the center hinge from either the top or bottom hinge. Also take care to mount them parallel to one another. If your are not careful here it will not fold correctly, will bind, and not last very long. You will notice there is a difference of 1/2 or 5/8 of an inch between the spacing of the upper hinge to center hinge and lower hinge to center hinge. That is because they mount to the frame differently. The bottom hinge mounts on the side of the frame and the upper mounts to the bottom of the frame. At least mine does.
You will line them up side to side using the old panel as a guide when drilling your holes in the new panels. When you get the pics they will help show what I mean by this.
I thought may be this weekend to start. Any idea on the CD? My neighbor and I are gonna tackle it.
I grabbed those dimensions and forgot to bring them to work. But you will have to go with whatever you have anyway. I think I said this somewhere already, but I will point it out again because it is critical. Before drilling out your rivets make a print. Take care to measure your center to center dimensions of the rivet holes where they fasten TO THE PANEL. The overall height as well as the center hinge from either the top or bottom hinge. Also take care to mount them parallel to one another. If your are not careful here it will not fold correctly, will bind, and not last very long. You will notice there is a difference of 1/2 or 5/8 of an inch between the spacing of the upper hinge to center hinge and lower hinge to center hinge. That is because they mount to the frame differently. The bottom hinge mounts on the side of the frame and the upper mounts to the bottom of the frame. At least mine does.
You will line them up side to side using the old panel as a guide when drilling your holes in the new panels. When you get the pics they will help show what I mean by this.
I thought may be this weekend to start. Any idea on the CD? My neighbor and I are gonna tackle it.
jmodge
Senior Member
I will try to post a photo or two tommorrow. I am heading over to a friends house in Grand Rapids. He has my camera and the CD. When you attach the wood to the hinges for folding, make sure you put them on the outside of the hinge and leave a couple holes in the board so you can get some screws in the hinge. I think they were #8x 3/4 screws and they went through the 1/2 inch plywood and were just long enough to grab the hinge and stuck through far enough to catch the holes in the frame to line up the fixture without enlarging the holes in the hinge.
I can't stress this enough, your critical dimensions are hole to hole to line up your hinges, not edge to edge, because if you are a little off on your panels it will change everything.
I can't stress this enough, your critical dimensions are hole to hole to line up your hinges, not edge to edge, because if you are a little off on your panels it will change everything.
jmodge
Senior Member
Here is a photo of lining up the old and new panels to determine placement of the hinge for side to side relationship.jmodge
Senior Member
Here is a photo of drilling the plywood for the fixture. It is ripped to about 4 inches afterward. It will be attached to the hinge and used for leverage to fold the hinge and secured for installation
Here is a photo of clamping method for drilling and attachment
Here is aphoto of the panel with the top and bottom of the fixture installedjmodge
Senior Member
Here is a photo of the left and right haives of the lower fixture and the board attaching them to one another. Spaces are left for installing screws in the frame prior to removal of the fixture.
Here the top hinge is folded and the upper and lower halves are attached.
Here is the finished fixtureSimilar threads - WTW
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