Replace 2006 Hawk Rear Flood Lights

Fielding.dots

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Posts
24
Location
Seattle
I was changing the bulb on my rear flood light and being a clumsy fool I dropped the glass cover on the ground and it shattered.

I searched around for replacement covers and reached out to FWC for possible replacement but they are no longer made.

Wondering if anyone has changed out their factory rear flood lights from the 2006ish era and dropped in a newer led assembly.

The existing is a PM 503. I was trying to find something that allowed me to use the existing mount, or at least similar to increase the simplicity of this task.

Even better if someone happens to have an old one sitting around not in use, id be happy to buy it off them for the cover.

Thanks!

2006 kestrel
 

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My recollection is that those incandescent tractor lights pulled something like 2.5A (and one had burned out), so I swapped them out with LEDs (Grote 63981). I'm pretty sure the mounting holes were in the same location/pattern, so it was just using new SS304 screws, butyl putty for the mounting, and UV resistant silicone for the wire passthrough in the center. (Edit. After looking at the pictures again, I drilled out the 2x diagonal holes on the Grote mounts to match up with the original mounting holes. You can see the horizontal stock holes on the mounts, which I did not use.)

On the other hand, 4WC grounded the lights through the frame vs a separate ground wire, which results in high resistance or intermittent contact with any corrosion between the steel screw and aluminum frame (SS helps a little bit vs the galvanized they had used, but it was best to take care of all at once). I added in a ground wire for both lights (access is good behind the refrigerator, and not too bad behind the CO detector) - I think I used 16 or 18ga stranded wire, and ran the grounds back to the power converter bus.
 

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I have what i believe is a ground issue on my 2015 hawk flatbed. A while back after we bought used, I had FWC locate and drill for the wires.

Added the connections in the fuse box and installed some free led lights.

They both flicker, or fast cycle. One stopped working, yet to diagnose. Will run a test ground to see.

The inside ceiling lights will also flicker, which is a disturbing distraction.

Yes would be great to actually see under the siding to fix it and provide a reliable ground.
 
My recollection is that those incandescent tractor lights pulled something like 2.5A (and one had burned out), so I swapped them out with LEDs (Grote 63981). I'm pretty sure the mounting holes were in the same location/pattern, so it was just using new SS304 screws, butyl putty for the mounting, and UV resistant silicone for the wire passthrough in the center. (Edit. After looking at the pictures again, I drilled out the 2x diagonal holes on the Grote mounts to match up with the original mounting holes. You can see the horizontal stock holes on the mounts, which I did not use.)

On the other hand, 4WC grounded the lights through the frame vs a separate ground wire, which results in high resistance or intermittent contact with any corrosion between the steel screw and aluminum frame (SS helps a little bit vs the galvanized they had used, but it was best to take care of all at once). I added in a ground wire for both lights (access is good behind the refrigerator, and not too bad behind the CO detector) - I think I used 16 or 18ga stranded wire, and ran the grounds back to the power converter bus.
Thanks Achiral, this is exactly what I was hoping for! I'm going to order the Grotes. My ground wire is heavily rusted as well, so like the idea to run a new ground back to the bus.
 
I replaced the flood lights on our camper with the Grotes. Had the same grounding issue and ran a separate ground wire. The Grote mounting angle is a little steeper than the OEM lights. I made a spacer block to go between the camper wall and the light so I could better point the lights.
 

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