This will be my 1st real off road...lol for me, adventure. I thought I would start at Shafer Trail and go to Potash and on to the cool bend on the Colorado river. Should I run 4W high or low coming down Shafer and should I air down and how much? Ford F250 with a Bundutec Camper. So much to learn. Finally getting my trip to the Canyons!
Shafer Trail
- Thread starter Happyjax
- Start date
Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
Jackie, congrats!
Having never been on that trail, take my advice with the proverbial grain of salt. If you can stay in 4H (or even 2H if you don’t need the traction) and not have to be constantly on the brakes to keep your speed reasonable, that would be my choice. Shifting in low range always seems harsh (overly solid) to me, and I don’t use it unless necessary.
Having never been on that trail, take my advice with the proverbial grain of salt. If you can stay in 4H (or even 2H if you don’t need the traction) and not have to be constantly on the brakes to keep your speed reasonable, that would be my choice. Shifting in low range always seems harsh (overly solid) to me, and I don’t use it unless necessary.
h2opup
Senior Member
Site Team
No tech advice to offer (sorry), but 'Happy Trails' for an awesome adventure!
I don't know if your truck has a 'Tow/Trailer' mode button or switch. With my Tundra I use it very often when going down hill, highway, freeway or dirt. It keeps the transmission in lower gears a bit longer.
Depending on road conditions such as inclination, rocks, loose gravel, mud, I keep gearing down instead of leaning on the brakes. Even if I end up crawling slowly down a grade at a walking pace, that is o.k. Better than using the brakes continuously. I will use 4-high or even 4-low sometimes. Just creeping along, one eye on the road surface and the other on the road ahead. Seems to work and is less stressful.
Depending on road conditions such as inclination, rocks, loose gravel, mud, I keep gearing down instead of leaning on the brakes. Even if I end up crawling slowly down a grade at a walking pace, that is o.k. Better than using the brakes continuously. I will use 4-high or even 4-low sometimes. Just creeping along, one eye on the road surface and the other on the road ahead. Seems to work and is less stressful.
Sagebrush Reconnoiterer
The Historian
Is your Ford a diesel, and is your transmission an auto or manual? If a diesel, your engine braking will be stronger, especially if equipped with an engine brake. If your transmission is automatic, you can still keep it in the lower gears.
From a quick search, I find that the road is maintained gravel. I see no need for airing down. If your tires are not LT rated, or do not have 3-ply sidewalls, I would not recommend airing down due to potential sidewall damage.
That road looks scary at first glance. Let me tell what I would do, based on my decades of experience:
* Use 4WD Low for descending. Keep your transmission in whatever gear that allows for engine braking at whatever speed you feel comfortable with. Shift up or down as needed so that riding the brakes is not necessary. That descent looks to be very long given the large number of very tightly wound switchbacks. With the weight you are carrying, you don’t want to be over heating your brakes. If you’re lucky enough to come to a safe stop after your brakes fade, it takes a very long time for drums/rotors to cool enough to proceed.
* Going back up, I also recommend low range. Every 4WD vehicle I’ve owned is/was easier to climb winding and switchbacked roads in low range. In high range I found myself having to constantly shift - or my automatic transmission ceaselessly changing gears - to keep the engine in the powerband. Low range greatly reduces the need for shifting. You and your truck will be happier. Every truck I’ve owned allowed comfortable cruising at 25-30 mph in drive or 5th gear at no more than 3,000 RPM.
As for those who feel that 4WD is not necessary unless needed, I disagree. I run in 4WD even on maintained dirt roads. Not because it is needed, but to keep all shifting and front end parts moving and spinning frequently, limber and lubed. Because if you don’t use it, you just may find things seized and unavailable when you do need it. I’ve seen that happen numerous times to others who were stuck, shifted into 4WD and only the rear wheels spinning. The manual on my 4Runner instructs to drive several miles monthly in 4WD for that reason. I’ve put on more than 200,000 miles on my vehicles without drivetrain issues likely for that reason.
Have a great trip!
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Vic Harder
Doctor Electric
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
Ditto on not using the brakes if possible. And if you do get them hot, don't stop for a long time with the brakes applied (holding on steep hill) or the parking brake. The difference in cooling temps of the rotors where the brake pads are vs not, will causing warping.
BryanToyFWC
Advanced Member
I took Shaffer decent (Tundra with Hawk FWC) in 2H just fine, using low gears. The switchbacks are pretty tight and 4H/L lessens my turning radius. Take it slow, low gears, tap brakes, all good!!
I have a WRT trip report somewhere on this site if you want to check it out.
www.wanderthewest.com
I have a WRT trip report somewhere on this site if you want to check it out.
White Rim Road March 28-31st - EPIC
Hello! I've not posted a trip report before. First time for everything, like my White Rim adventure! We left Moab March 28th and entered the trail via Shafer. It had one switchback with snow and ice still. Was a little bit terrifying, but took it inch by inch and made it through. Drive...
www.wanderthewest.com
Sagebrush Reconnoiterer
The Historian
Took a look at your trip report. Magnificent country. The photo of the individual standing on the verge of a long drop made me shiver so hard that I nearly spilled my morning coffee.I have a WRT trip report somewhere on this site if you want to check it out.
White Rim Road March 28-31st - EPIC
Hello! I've not posted a trip report before. First time for everything, like my White Rim adventure! We left Moab March 28th and entered the trail via Shafer. It had one switchback with snow and ice still. Was a little bit terrifying, but took it inch by inch and made it through. Drive...
I have been on this trail many times, I have a 2020 Chevy 3500 duramax with a Grandby FWC on it. This road is one of the must dos, it is maintained and you don't need four wheel drive, like the comments above just gear down on the steep parts, I don't think you need to air down. Last year at the Potash road junction there was a Toyota Camry at the out houses, told me he came down Shafer Trail and was headed back up, no problems for him. Potash road is very rough, lots of rocks and washboard but you do not need to use Four wheel Drive, just go slow. Lots of places to stop and view the river and hike if you so desire.
Drove Potash last November and concur it is a bumpy and rough road. Suggest coming down Schaefer Trail and driving to Gooseneck overlook and/or Thelma/ Louise point and then backtrack. Shafer is an easy drive unless it is wet. Exciting drop offs and views. I can’t imagine driving a 1950s loaded dump truck up or down. Now that would be exciting!
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Vic Harder
Doctor Electric
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
How does it compare to the Moki Dugway?
K7MDL
Senior Member
I have been on Patash Road and WRT/Shafer many times on motorcycle and Jeep. As mentioned, the Shafer road surface is not bad a car can do it. The bottom flats toward the Colorado Overlook and Musselman Bridge however have many rock steps and your average speed will be lower than you might assume.
Potash can be very bumpy with off camber ledges/steps and some sand washes that change depending on the last big rain. I watched 2 people on a Honda scooter try the Potash, they got quite a ways in, pushing it at times. Before I ever saw them, I could smell their transmission burning up. They wanted to go up the Shafer to exit the park. That was not going to happen! The Potash Rd hill sections are very short but can be steep and rocky at times. It changed from year to year. Like Murphy Hogback section of the WRT, it got progressively worse over the years, then one year, it was like a highway was built through there as it appeared a grinder took out the bigger rock steps.
Potash can be very bumpy with off camber ledges/steps and some sand washes that change depending on the last big rain. I watched 2 people on a Honda scooter try the Potash, they got quite a ways in, pushing it at times. Before I ever saw them, I could smell their transmission burning up. They wanted to go up the Shafer to exit the park. That was not going to happen! The Potash Rd hill sections are very short but can be steep and rocky at times. It changed from year to year. Like Murphy Hogback section of the WRT, it got progressively worse over the years, then one year, it was like a highway was built through there as it appeared a grinder took out the bigger rock steps.
publicalias
New Member
I would recommend 4L for your decent; otherwise, everything should be fine in 2WD or at most 4H. In March of this year we went down the Mineral bottom switchbacks in 4L and made all of the turns on the first attempt no problem in a 2500 AT4X with a Hawk Camper. We were 200lbs under our max payload capacity and did the the white rim road counterclockwise coming out at the top of Schafer without issue. However, rain can quickly change the road conditions, so check road condition prior to your departure.
If your F250 is a newer vintage with the 10-speed tranny, the toggle lever on the gear shift lever allows you to select any gear you would like to stay in/below (similar with the “M” (manual) selection on ur PRNDM selections). I let the road dictate my selection of gear range & drive options when over landing with my F150 & Hawk camper. I don’t like beating the truck or camper & like to take it sloooow. Re: airing down, I didn’t when doing the Dempster Hwy in Canada 2 years ago & paid the price. 60 PSI (typical BFG K02 pressure with camper) needs to be aired down on pokey gravel / hard scrabble roads & soft sand. Carry ur traction mats!
Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
Jackie, put your transmission in tow haul mode. It lowers your shift points, and it should downshift for you when you brake more than just a tap. Manual mode is another.
45 PSI should be a good starting point. You can adjust as needed. I suspect you may go to a lower pressure, but your ride will determine that. Do you have deflators?
45 PSI should be a good starting point. You can adjust as needed. I suspect you may go to a lower pressure, but your ride will determine that. Do you have deflators?
Yes though I've never used them. Got a Viair for airing back up. Tried to be prepared....
FWIW - I'd practice deflating and re-inflating at home. It isn't difficult, but it is good to know what to expect before you actually *need* to do it.
Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
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