The Overland Solar 75|15 is only rated for 225W, so I'd leave that dedicated to your Bugout for portable / in-camp use. Then I'd add a dedicated Victron SmartSolar 100|30 (rated up to 440W) for the roof. Note: the roof & back SAE solar ports are wired in parallel, so you'll have to separate the roof wiring from the back port wiring to run the roof direct to the SmartSolar 100|30 if going this route. Then I'd try to find a single 400+W fixed glass non-flexible panel left over from a residential install from Facebook Marketplace. If you're lucky you may find one for close to $100. Then add some panel feet to mount to your existing tracks. A residential 400+W panel will likely put out ~ 40V @ 10A, so that will be good for starting earlier in the morning & running later at night. Should yield 1000-2000W on a sunny day, so for a 12V system, about 80-160Ah. Maybe 100-200Ah if used in combination with Bugout.
You can just add a LiFePO4 in place of AGM. There are some reasonably priced options from the likes of LiTime & new kid on the block WattCycle. Battleborn & Dakota Lithium are way overpriced compared to the competition. The shore power converter may not be ideal for LiFePO4, but should get it most of the way, and if you have solar or DC-DC that may get it the rest of the way. One caveat to this is that your likely existing BlueSea ACR (automatic charge relay) isn't really suitable for LiFePO4. LiFePO4 batteries have extremely low resistance, and can cause large currents to flow if direct connected (which in effect is what the ACR does) to alternator & starter battery. A better solution is to install a DC-DC to limit current & optimize the charging profile for your camper battery. My personal favorite for this is the Victron XS50 (due to its size & efficiency, even for lower currents if not supported by high enough amperage alternator). That would also necessitate upgrading power feed from starter battery to camper battery to 4 AWG with SB120 Andersons. It would also be highly advisable to add a Victron SmartShunt or BMV-712 so you know battery State of Charge (SoC) as voltage not a reliable predictor of SoC for LiFePO4 like it was for AGM or lead acid, and can also monitor input & ouput current flows.
I'd be interested to know breakdown of dealer quote for $2000-3000, both in terms of specific parts that includes & what portion of that is labor. It may not be unreasonable if it say includes some or all of the following: battery, replacing ACR with DC-DC charger, rewiring power feed to 4 AWG with Andersons, adding a shunt ot BMV, a dedicated SmartSolar 100|30 & solar panel, etc.
The struts are a balancing act, too soft & roof difficult to open, too stiff & roof difficult to close. Having said that 30 lbs is pretty soft & 40 lbs is only an extra 10 lbs x 4 = 40 lbs to close. If you add a panel to the roof even 40 lbs may be a little soft given that it's soft already & you'd be adding more weight. I have 420 lbs & a 25+ lbs Starlink & bracket & went with 60 lbs struts on mine. Back is rougly balanced. Front I sometimes have to close from outside by just standing in truck front door opening. 50 lbs in front may have been a better balance for me, but 60 lbs works fine too. For lifting your roof with canoe on you can investigate a speaker stand lifter or a linear actuator. Make sure you don't extend too far with either or you may buckle your roof. Just enough to snap lift panel boards in place.
