Started Some Mods

davidshourd

Advanced Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
60
Location
Portland Oregon
I have been considerng for a while removng the build in two burner stove, sink and water tank. well I finaly pulled the trigger when I got back from a weekend out and around Mount Hood last weekend. I have pulled the stove, sink and carefully pulled the water tank out. ordered a nice sheet of stainless to skin the counter with. Ran a flexible gas line hose that will allow for setting up the camping stove in side, on the tailgate or on the side of the camper. Last night I proceeded with cutting a 9 1/2" by 16" holes in the side of the camper just to the right of the propane tank storage. I got a "marine grade access hatch" online that will plugthis hole and give access to behind the breaker/fuse panel. I am going to fit it out in there for additional storage. Also pulled the water fill up hatch (no water tank to fill up) and moved the land power outlet to that hole. trimed it out with some aluminum diamond plate. Up front under the "bill" of the camper, very front edge of the bed area, was some dry rot in each far corner I noticed while cleaning. you could poke the white marine grade plywood and I am sure you could get a screw driver right in side. so I got some aluminum diamond plate 12" wide and screws and siliconed it all the way across after doing some deep repair. I will get some pictures up when I get home tonight. I know it sounds like I removed some usefull items but after nearly 60 nights out over the past 12 months I think we discovered what we use and what we could use more of. I will keep you guys posted. I think my next step is to replace the boards that make the roof stay up at each end. anyone try replacing with anything but wood?
 
here is a link to the "hatch" type I ordered: http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/731d6514ff5a8481852567be000745b2/c725f9390602558d85256a380060c4ca?OpenDocument

And a couple pictures. one from last weekend and one of the side of the camper with the moved outlet and the hole cut for the hatch. another picture of the aluminum diamond plate I put up front.
 

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I have been considerng for a while removng the build in two burner stove, sink and water tank. well I finaly pulled the trigger when I got back from a weekend out and around Mount Hood last weekend. I have pulled the stove, sink and carefully pulled the water tank out. ordered a nice sheet of stainless to skin the counter with. Ran a flexible gas line hose that will allow for setting up the camping stove in side, on the tailgate or on the side of the camper. Last night I proceeded with cutting a 9 1/2" by 16" holes in the side of the camper just to the right of the propane tank storage. I got a "marine grade access hatch" online that will plugthis hole and give access to behind the breaker/fuse panel. I am going to fit it out in there for additional storage. Also pulled the water fill up hatch (no water tank to fill up) and moved the land power outlet to that hole. trimed it out with some aluminum diamond plate. Up front under the "bill" of the camper, very front edge of the bed area, was some dry rot in each far corner I noticed while cleaning. you could poke the white marine grade plywood and I am sure you could get a screw driver right in side. so I got some aluminum diamond plate 12" wide and screws and siliconed it all the way across after doing some deep repair. I will get some pictures up when I get home tonight. I know it sounds like I removed some usefull items but after nearly 60 nights out over the past 12 months I think we discovered what we use and what we could use more of. I will keep you guys posted. I think my next step is to replace the boards that make the roof stay up at each end. anyone try replacing with anything but wood?


great idea about the stove.i carry a coleman propane along to cook outside,but can't bring myself to cut out the built in.what size solar do you have on the roof?also how much electricity do you use on a trip,if that is the right term? frank
 
I have dual 5watts working in parrelel running through a solar controller so it trickles charges, does not over charge and bulk charges as needed. as long as I have direct sun I have no problems running the AC/DC converter to charge laptop and run a small set of computer speakers for the day and still be fully charged for the night. Running the heater all night and occasional lights I have not gotten below "fair" or about 50%. I replaced all lights with LED and that did appear to make a difference in power usage. With the extra room I have created under where the sink was I am thinking of running a second battery. I doubt the extra weight is worth it though.
 
So last night I started putting everything back together. I insulated the propane storage cubby from the inside of the camper while I had the cabinet apart with some 1/2" rigid insulation. then cut some 3/4" plywood to fill in the counter where the sink and stove were cut out and bondo'ed over that to get it nice and smooth for the stainless sheet going on. I kept the faucet hole open as I have a groumet (like the one on your computer table) where the gas line will poke through to fire up the stove. also filled up any void I could get to where I cut open the camper for the hatch with "expando" foam and trimmed it flush. on the inside of the new storage area I still need to mount the back panel somehow. I want to make it removable so if I need to get to the fuse/breaker panel it is quick and easy. I have a couple more "porch lights" (like the ones on the back of the campers) on the way. I will mount one inside of the new storage area and one on the side of the camper. Now I need to find an awning.... I will get some more pictures once I get the stainless top in, hopefully today.
 

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I kept the faucet hole open as I have a groumet (like the one on your computer table) where the gas line will poke through to fire up the stove.

Be careful running a camp stove inside the camper without proper ventilation! The stoves that come installed in our campers are designed for use inside campers....camp stoves are not.
 
So last night I started putting everything back together. I insulated the propane storage cubby from the inside of the camper while I had the cabinet apart with some 1/2" rigid insulation. then cut some 3/4" plywood to fill in the counter where the sink and stove were cut out and bondo'ed over that to get it nice and smooth for the stainless sheet going on. I kept the faucet hole open as I have a groumet (like the one on your computer table) where the gas line will poke through to fire up the stove. also filled up any void I could get to where I cut open the camper for the hatch with "expando" foam and trimmed it flush. on the inside of the new storage area I still need to mount the back panel somehow. I want to make it removable so if I need to get to the fuse/breaker panel it is quick and easy. I have a couple more "porch lights" (like the ones on the back of the campers) on the way. I will mount one inside of the new storage area and one on the side of the camper. Now I need to find an awning.... I will get some more pictures once I get the stainless top in, hopefully today.



.what brand solar panels and cost.how did you mount them?thanks frank
 
Be careful running a camp stove inside the camper without proper ventilation! The stoves that come installed in our campers are designed for use inside campers....camp stoves are not.


Very Valid point. I would never have it running without the window directly adjacent open and the roof vent. I have to ask though, both stoves burn the same product (Propane), how could one be more "designed" to run inside then the other? Thanks-

As for the Solar Panels, they are cheap Harbor Frieght panels (I have a savings going for a 25watt panel). the panels are screwed to a 1"x1" length of aluminum tube that is then screwed to the rof supports. Everthing is sealed of course. then the wires punch through the roof at the very back and are taped to the back of the board that supports the roof with a coil of slack back there. where the wires go through the roog I mad an aluminum housing to cover the wires, seal up the hole and prevent anything from getting snagged by a low branch or something.
 
Very Valid point. I would never have it running without the window directly adjacent open and the roof vent. I have to ask though, both stoves burn the same product (Propane), how could one be more "designed" to run inside then the other?


It is my understanding that stove tops designed to run inside a camper, rv or motorhome are regulated differently than an outside camp stove, thus emitting no CO when in use. A campstove outputs CO, and they come with warnings about using indoors without proper ventalation.

Maybe I'm wrong here....and they both emit CO. You folks with more expertise on this issue...please weigh in.

I was curious about this and called Atwood. They said their stove tops emit no CO, but could not comment on how much CO a camp stove emits. She went on to say that their stove tops emit no CO if they are working properly. So, one could conclude that it is a good safety measure to ALWAYS open windows and vents, regardless of the type of propane appliance being used.

I had a bad experience with CO in the past, and have installed an extra CO detector in my camper besides the one that FWC installed at the factory.
 
It is my understanding that stove tops designed to run inside a camper, rv or motorhome are regulated differently than an outside camp stove, thus emitting no CO when in use. A campstove outputs CO, and they come with warnings about using indoors without proper ventalation.

Maybe I'm wrong here....and they both emit CO. You folks with more expertise on this issue...please weigh in.

I was curious about this and called Atwood. They said their stove tops emit no CO, but could not comment on how much CO a camp stove emits. She went on to say that their stove tops emit no CO if they are working properly. So, one could conclude that it is a good safety measure to ALWAYS open windows and vents, regardless of the type of propane appliance being used.

I had a bad experience with CO in the past, and have installed an extra CO detector in my camper besides the one that FWC installed at the factory.


thanks. hat is good to know. like you said, you should always have soem ventalation when using anything with direct flame inside.
 
All stoves emit CO. I have heard people say before that the built in stoves are different. The only difference I can think of is that the regulator may be of higher quality, more precise so the burn is more consistent and as a result cleaner. But make no mistake, built in stoves do emit CO. There is also a warning to use proper ventilation with the built in stoves. Gas regulators for RV's are a 2 stage design VS a barbecue single stage. Presumably to keep the gas pressure more controlled and in turn any gas appliances will burn more consistently (cleaner).
 
Some updated pictures of where I ended up. The stainless counter is a really nice addition. I used a 1/2"x1/2" aluminum angle along the edge, notched it at the radiused corner to bend it around. it keeps items like the cutting board from sliding off while going down those bumpy roads. I also just purchased 2 15watt solar panels to upgrade from the dua 5 watt panels I currently have. let me know what you guys thing of the new hatch and counter.
 

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Interesting mods. I'm surprised you had some dry rot already. Figure out where the moisture came from?
 
Interesting mods. I'm surprised you had some dry rot already. Figure out where the moisture came from?


It was only in each of the VERY front bottom corners of the bed over cab area. I think it had a potential from three things.
1. from the seal note seating all the way on the roof when in the down position.
2. the black vinyl strip not seating all the way in the plastic that holds it.
3. from when in the up position when it is raining, water appears to collect on those corners between the side pop up material and the gasket. not positive where it could drain too.

I have selectively resealed areas mentioned above with multiple products. I have not since been in really wet conditions so no report if anything preventative is working. Reading around on some of the posts for leaking campers, these corners seem to be rather vulnerable.
 

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