Tie-downs for my 10' NCO Alaskan - looking at options

[Land-roamer]

Hi again, different topic,
I've read the post discussing various ways of securing an Alaskan to a pickup.
How to secure

I plan on ordering Billis frame-mounted tie-down (number 3007) in the front (similar to Torklift).
Billis front

For the rear, I can get a Billis frame-mounted tie-down, or one that attaches to hitch (number 3012 or 3033).
Billis rear

I don't presently have a hitch on my truck (I have a ball on the bumper), so that would be an added cost to the 3033 model.

In looking at other setups on previous thread, I could probably just drill and attach hooks to my rear bumper corners, and attach the rear that way. I'm trying to get a safe and secure approach that won't break the bank, since I don't know yet if the slide-in camper will be the solution for me. Obviously, I'll also have to get turnbuckles, chains, and eye-bolts to put into the camper (I gather it's not a good idea to use the HD jacking plates that are bolted in on each corner of my Alaskan?)

My truck is a 96 Dodge 4x4 3/4 ton with HD suspension in back (Camper package). I assume I don't need any suspension upgrades for the 10footer NCO.

Thanks!
--Robert

 

[Rusty]

Air bags will make your ride much easier

 

[Land-roamer]

For those interested, I ordered the front and rear frame-mounted tie-downs (Billis, about $260 each CDN).

I'll attach eyebolts next to the jack plates, and get the necessary chain and turnbuckle to attach to the tie-downs, once the camper's on the truck.

Air bags, we'll see...

I suppose if I'm going to replace the tires with some newer Load E's, I should do that before putting the camper on.

Getting closer to my goal of taking the camper-truck combo for a trial run this summer...

 

[Rusty]

Robert,

Keep in mind that the tie downs are only as good as the weakest link.....

The jack plates are designed for support (standing) and they are attached to 1/2 inch plywood seats in the camper....

When you reverse the tension and pull the jacks from below the plywood takes the brunt of the force.....

just a little fore warning....don't torque them down too tight

The air bags will stop the side to side sway......you'll see

 

[Land-roamer]

Robert,

Keep in mind that the tie downs are only as good as the weakest link.....

The jack plates are designed for support (standing) and they are attached to 1/2 inch plywood seats in the camper....

When you reverse the tension and pull the jacks from below the plywood takes the brunt of the force.....

just a little fore warning....don't torque them down too tight

The air bags will stop the side to side sway......you'll see


Thanks Rusty. I suppose there's no alternative but placing the eye-bolts in those plywood seats? I was planning on having a metal plate on the inside to add a bit more strength. I'll go easy on the tension, and get some spring-loaded turnbuckles (with some give in them).

You're probably right about the air bags! I'll look into the cost of getting some put on ahead of time. Starting to add up, the costs of the ancillary stuff may in fact exceed what I paid for the camper originally!!

 

[Rusty]

if you have the Atwood jack brackets they have holes in the front and back which accommodate tie down hooks nicely

I ended up installing backing plates on the seats myself...SS....bed the plate in adhesive caulking

I've got pictures but I can't get the system to works for me

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/camperadditions84201000.jpg/]

Make sure the through bolts for the jack brackets are well sealed going through the seats....water tends to wick along the seam for the brackets at the lower section and is drawn into the nice dry plywood...it takes a couple years before you see this one.

bed the jack plate and caulk the holes well before inserting the bolts.

 

[Kilroy]

I found the corners getting pulled apart on rough roads, or when going off road. I ended up taking the seats up to expose the inside corners and then epoxying in a large piece of wood to help hold the corner together. Would still get a lot of pulling on the corner. A metal plate inside would help somewhat, but would still allow the corner to be pulled apart.

On trip to UP in August, I put a ratchet strap over the whole camper, front and rear, attached to the tie downs on truck. Really helped on the rough areas and large bumps I wasn't quite ready for.
Don't feel the need for this on normal roads.






Thanks Rusty. I suppose there's no alternative but placing the eye-bolts in those plywood seats? I was planning on having a metal plate on the inside to add a bit more strength. I'll go easy on the tension, and get some spring-loaded turnbuckles (with some give in them).

You're probably right about the air bags! I'll look into the cost of getting some put on ahead of time. Starting to add up, the costs of the ancillary stuff may in fact exceed what I paid for the camper originally!!

 

[caseboy]

i'm a newbie and on a budjet(or just cheap). since i don't use mine often, i just run ratchet straps from the boat rack mounts down to the tiedowns in the stake holes. mine is a 10ft nco on a 97 3/4 ton ford and this works great.it does take much time at all to release or tighten them to get up or battened down for travel.it just looks "redneck"

wes