Assuming all tires are same size and load-capacity (heavier in rear on trucks used to be a thing), determine whether the tires are directional or not. These used to be confined to certain performance tires but this design overkill has spread elsewhere. Most have an arrow and the word "Rotation" or "Direction" on sidewall. If you have these, front-to-back rotation is the only cost-effective way to rotate tires, as swapping and remounting them onto opposite wheels and rebalancing would be your expensive alternative.
If your tires are not directional, per several industry association guidances, there are various cross-rotation patterns sometimes preferred that you can use depending on whether vehicle is front wheel drive (FWD), rear wheel drive (RWD), or four wheel drive (4WD or 4x4 in US for part-time systems) assuming you actually use 4WD or 4x4 enough to justify whatever difference it was (I can't recall). Full-time 4WD is often called All Wheel Drive (AWD) in US, especially if a light duty system without a 2-speed transfer case that gives you a low range.
In general, RWD rotation patterns are traditionally fronts cross-rotated to rear, and rear rotated straight to front. FWD is often opposite, with rears cross-rotated to front and fronts rotated straight to rear. 4WD usually follows RWD pattern. Including a spare complicates it (check your manual or industry guides, assuming you have real spare and a matching wheel); I have a small sketch showing rotation with spare I give to Costco or draw it myself on work order for our Wrangler. Original Goodyear MTRs vibrated if not cross-rotated frequently and were worse for a while after one did. Replacement Goodrich KO2s seem more forgiving.
