Truma heater blew fuse

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Patrick, I don’t believe you were seeing things. Yesterday, I couldn’t see it on my iPad.

I am looking forward to the solution.

 

[pvstoy]

Patrick, I don’t believe you were seeing things. Yesterday, I couldn’t see it on my iPad.

I am looking forward to the solution.

Today on main computer seems to be working.

 

[pvstoy]

I had no idea that the new systems are becoming like a car computer that runs and controls everything from one screen.

If main computer goes down you have no systems working.

I'm not ready for that! Still liking systems separate for easy diagnosis. If one goes down then at least you still have something that still works.

Post has been informative enough that I don't want that system. Perhaps in the future when it is bullet proof and allows you control with bypasses to still have something working.

 

[craig333]

I just had a weird one. I wasn't paying much attention to the system because my State of charge read 96%. Then I heard a beeping sound. Low voltage warning. Down to 11. something. Camper battery was severely discharged. No clue why the Trimetric still read a good soc. Took about six hours using the IOTA to recharge the battery and now everything seems fine. Trimetric reads --- which is normal when it resets, I think. Voltage is steady at 13.3. Very odd. Bugs me when I don't know what went wrong.

 

[Vic Harder]

Curious minds want to know what the fix was!!!

 

[Vic Harder]

I just had a weird one. I wasn't paying much attention to the system because my State of charge read 96%. Then I heard a beeping sound. Low voltage warning. Down to 11. something. Camper battery was severely discharged. No clue why the Trimetric still read a good soc. Took about six hours using the IOTA to recharge the battery and now everything seems fine. Trimetric reads --- which is normal when it resets, I think. Voltage is steady at 13.3. Very odd. Bugs me when I don't know what went wrong.

Is there a SOC reset function?

 

[ski3pin]

Curious minds want to know what the fix was!!!

Yes!

 

[JiminMaine]

Sorry for the delay updating here. Here was my fix, I hope it helps others. I checked every electrical connection. There were 3 loose grounds on the ground busbar. 2 loose wires at a positive wago connector. After this the only issue was the water pump. The fuse keep blowing. Speaking with Zac at FWC he asked which size of fuse I told him 5amp. He informed me that this should be 10 amp! After switching the fuses I then checked the wires coming from the TVMS to the fuse bar, there was no power corresponding with the water pump connection (when the button was applied). I switched that wire, which ironically was the porch light, my initial issue! Basically...The porch and water pump were in the wrong order, both at the (fused) TVMS side and appliance side. In addition, the wires were very tight against the mortised wood panel connected to the TVMS. I decided to remove a wee bit to prevent any rubbing there. The power wires to the TVMS are too short. This seemed to restrick the placement of the unit.
I took 5 very cold days to troubleshoot. Thanks to all that helped.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Sorry for the delay updating here. Here was my fix, I hope it helps others. I checked every electrical connection. There were 3 loose grounds on the ground busbar. 2 loose wires at a positive wago connector. After this the only issue was the water pump. The fuse keep blowing. Speaking with Zac at FWC he asked which size of fuse I told him 5amp. He informed me that this should be 10 amp! After switching the fuses I then checked the wires coming from the TVMS to the fuse bar, there was no power corresponding with the water pump connection (when the button was applied). I switched that wire, which ironically was the porch light, my initial issue! Basically...The porch and water pump were in the wrong order, both at the (fused) TVMS side and appliance side. In addition, the wires were very tight against the mortised wood panel connected to the TVMS. I decided to remove a wee bit to prevent any rubbing there. The power wires to the TVMS are too short. This seemed to restrick the placement of the unit.
I took 5 very cold days to troubleshoot. Thanks to all that helped.

I hope you will provide detailed feedback to the builder regarding their quality assurance program, and to the dealer for what appears to be an incomplete pre delivery systems check. Perhaps some gifted accessories or service would be appropriate compensation for you.

 

[Vic Harder]

I'm still confused. So there were bad grounds and some mislabeling/miswiring. How were those causing the isolator to turn off? In fact, how could much of anything in the camper affect the isolator (other than the intended effect which is to prevent battery drain from the truck)? And how was the Truma heater causing an issue? Red Herring?

 

[JiminMaine]

Hi Vic! I wish had more answers. I'm still learning, I thought I knew something about low voltage wiring, ever evolving. I do have other concerns about this camper. I will give you folk a wee break before I unfurl those issues.

 

[Vic Harder]

BTW, I loved your enthusiasm when you finally had heat.

 

[ski3pin]

BTW, I loved your enthusiasm when you finally had heat.

Yes!

 

[JiminMaine]

Thanks! I can assure you my reaction was completely unfiltered : )

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Thanks! I can assure you my reaction was completely unfiltered : )

I can understand and would have done the same. Having heat is far better than freezing yer behonkus off. Indeed it is.

 

[JiminMaine]

Well I spoke too soon. If you wish to view the attached video and avoid my mumbles, please skip to 4:15
Again, I sincerely appreciate the help.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I admire your persistence, but suspect I’d probably have more blue words than you. That must be weapons grade disappointment, and I’m sorry you’re having to go through it.

 

[JiminMaine]

Thanks! I intend to call Redarc this afternoon. I suspect this must be a program issue with the TVMS. There are set parameters within the redarc configuration app. I'm wondering that once the power was removed from TVMS it maybe have defaulted back to factory settings? Zac at FWC did email a file which I uploaded last week. I will check in later today with any updates.
Thanks again!

 

[Vic Harder]

I’ve never used Redarc gear, and after seeing this, likely never will. It seems that an internal fault with the Truma is causing the TVMS to kill all power. Almost like you have a main power kill switch (which I don’t see in your setup, i guess the newer units don’t have those anymore?).

Something I would try ( in order to figure out this isolator tripping), is tripping the breaker than goes to the truck battery and charging system, thereby removing the isolator from the wiring picture (make sense?)) Do you still have internal lights and power?

Another thought, do you know what that blue wire does when you “jump” it? Would it be safe to leave it connected?

 

[JiminMaine]

Just spoke with Redarc. They believe it was indeed a program issue with the load disconnect. The tech had me set the Redvision at SOC for the trigger and disconnect 20% reconnect 25%. I'm presently blasting the heater. Please see the before and after photos. Thanks for your input Vic! I believe Redarc have incredible products. Given the seemingly unlimited options available to us consumers regarding batteries, solar, fridges etc it must be difficult to provide "user friendly" software. I'm hoping this resolves the heater issues.
Hopefully this may help others too. I intend to reach out to FWC to voice my concerns about other issues I have with this camper. That is another day.
Thanks again!