Turnbuckle Question - Torklift Derringer Handles

[Krist003]

I am interested in using the Torklift Derringer handles for my turnbuckle setup (used on the stock interior mounting points)

Question: This setup is not spring loaded, so wouldn't you have to make sure the camper is EXACTLY centered in the truck bed in order for them to fit right?

Example - Say you have the camper centered perfectly in the truck bed and you get your initial turnbuckle lengths and setup done. But the next time you install the camper it is off center by 1/2"-1". Wouldn't one sides turnbuckles be loose and the other sides turnbuckles not even be able to reach? Or if they do reach, there would be too much tension/stress on that side (and too lose on the other).

I understand the importance of centering the camper, and can often get it pretty exact, but I remove and install the camper often and don't want to have to be extremely fussy about how centered it is.

I know some of you folks use these and have actual experience. Just wondering how much wiggle room there is with this setup or if I should stick with manual twist turnbuckles.


Here are the Derringer handles:
https://www.torklift.com/rv/derringer-handle


Thanks for the help!

 

[Vic Harder]

1/2”? Yikes. I aim for 1/8” or less, and yes, that is probably required for these to work as expected.

 

[Krist003]

How do you manage to measure accurate enough to be sure you are within 1/8"? Do you do that just for the purpose of getting the turnbuckles to work, or because of OCD ? I can't really imagine any adverse effects from being off center 1/2". Am I ignorant to something at play here? Now I am curious how many folks make sure they are that centered.

That said, I'd say I usually get it in the 1/4" range without wasting too much time. Unlike a lot of folks on here, my camper does not live on my truck for more than a week at a time. My goal is to shorten the time it takes to get the camper on and off.

Thanks for the input Vic!

 

[Vic Harder]

Camper is usually on the truck, so we take our time to get it right. I use a tape measure on spots my wife and I agreed on, and when lowering the camper, we stop before all the weight is back on the truck, which makes it easier to slide around with the help of some gentle persuasion (6’ long 2x4 works well!)

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

How do you manage to measure accurate enough to be sure you are within 1/8"? Do you do that just for the purpose of getting the turnbuckles to work, or because of OCD ? I can't really imagine any adverse effects from being off center 1/2". Am I ignorant to something at play here? Now I am curious how many folks make sure they are that centered.

That said, I'd say I usually get it in the 1/4" range without wasting too much time. Unlike a lot of folks on here, my camper does not live on my truck for more than a week at a time. My goal is to shorten the time it takes to get the camper on and off.

Thanks for the input Vic!

The most accurate way to load that I have found is to drop a plumb bob from the camper centerline, then with a person spotting, sloooowly back down on the marked true center of the truck bed.
I have a crew cab full size truck, and it’s very difficult to see the bed. A spotter makes the difference.

 

[Krist003]

Great stuff gents! I'm glad I asked. I'm always looking for new tips and tricks. Thank you

After seeing pictures online, I am thinking about making some centering wedges/guides in each corner of the bed to force the camper to exact center once lowered. I'd probably cover them in Delrin sheet so the camper slides down easy and doesn't get hung up. These wedges would keep the camper from shifting laterally too, putting less stress on the turnbuckles and keeping it more locked-in per se.

 

[drumwood]

I made centering blocks for each corner and it really helps. I never have to nudge the camper anymore to get it in just the right location in the truck bed. And the turnbuckles never loosen.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I made centering blocks for each corner and it really helps. I never have to nudge the camper anymore to get it in just the right location in the truck bed. And the turnbuckles never loosen.

Roger, do you have photos of the blocks in place before loading your camper?

 

[JaSAn]

Yes! Enquiring minds want to know.

 

[drumwood]

Yes! Enquiring minds want to know.

No, I don’t have photos. The camper is currently on the truck, so I’ll have to get photos next time I take it off.

I made the blocks from some 2 x 6 cutoffs left over from a patio roof project. I notched them to fit each corner of the bed without the need to fasten them down. The face of the block that slides/guides the camper into place is cut at something like a 30 degree angle. I wax it up with paraffin to help the sliding. It has splintered the edge of the floor pack a little bit. In retrospect, I should have rounded the floor pack edge and waxed that too before lowering the camper onto the blocks the first time. I think that would eliminate the splintering.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Roger, I like your idea. On the bevel, I think some slippery plastic, like the skid plates on ATVs and driftboats would stop the splintering. Thanks for sharing!

 

[drumwood]

I have photos now of the centering blocks, shown in the bed (6 foot) of my 2008 Nissan Frontier. You'll also see the blue soft loops and clips that I use as backups to the turnbuckles.

Each block in place: left rear, left forward, right forward, right rear.

The four blocks lined up, flipping the blocks in each image to show the different sides.

The camper in position ready to lower between the rear blocks.

The camper lowered and centered by the rear blocks.

I made the blocks from cut off ends from 4 x 6 (not 2 x 6) beams left over from a porch project. The faces that the camper slides down are about 65 degrees. I figured something between 90 and 45 would be about right, eyeballed the angle of my table saw blade, and cut the blocks. I still have to get the camper within about 1.5 inches of exact center to catch the blocks, but I find that much easier to do than repeated attempts at exact center and/or bumping the camper around in the bed.

I had to make notches and screw on shims to match the rounded corners and ridges of the truck bed and eye bolt clearance. I cut the rear blocks a little narrow at first, leaving plenty of room for the camper in between. Then as I tested I found I could screw on some 1/2" plywood to the backs of the blocks to take up the extra room and the camper now sits snug between the blocks.

The blocks are free floating. Nothing is attached to the bed. Once the camper is in place, everything seems to be staying in place.