U-Shaped dolly for easy loading/unloading. Material recommendations

BioDigitalJazzMan

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Hello all. Looking for some material recommendations for an upcoming project.

I am constructing a U-Shaped Dolly for easy loading/unloading of my Hawk. This has been discussed before a couple of times that I was able to find...



Unfortunately I don't have the material or expertise to construct such a frame out of metal square tubing, so I'm trying to get away with making it out of lumber for now. Any recommendations on the best way to achieve this with the required level of strength and rigidity?
 
That guy’s system in the video is really slick, but in your case with only two inches of clearance from the truck body to the jacks this sounds like a recipe for paint damage or even denting your truck unless you have additional features to positively align the camper as it moves. This is based on my experience and difficulty precisely moving my Grandby on a conventional dolly with good quality 6 inch casters on a smooth concrete garage floor. It would be even more difficult on a rougher driveway surface. I would like to know what kind of casters that guy uses. I have way more difficulty pushing my camper on the dolly than he appears to have. I wonder if his camper is a shell with much lower weight than mine.

I would not attempt this unless I had guide boards in the bed of the truck that forced the camper to remain centered while sliding in. Even then I think you would get bound up and put high lateral loads on your jacks, which you want to avoid. Another approach would be to use tracks for the casters that can’t slip on the floor.

I built a track system for my dolly to load and unload the camper outside my garage door because the installed camper is 2 inches too tall for my eight foot door, and my driveway has a ramp up into the garage that my dolly can’t roll up and down safely. It’s a completely different approach but shows an inexpensive way to build tracks to guide the casters. The tracks are 2x10s laid flat with plywood strips making the sides of U channels on the 2x10s. I used 2x10s because my tracks are raised and span between support blocks. You could use 2x8s if they are flat on the floor. Getting the loaded dolly on and off you 1.5 inch high tracks to transition from moving around in the garage to on the tracks could be done with the camper jacks. If you blow up the picture you can see my tracks. Notice that I have cross members fixing the distance between the tracks.

Regarding your original question of how you can make a U-shaped dolly frame with adequate stiffness, I think you could achieve adequate stiffness as far as opening and closing the U with 2x8s laid flat and joined with large 3/4 inch plywood gussets at the rear corners taking advantage of the space under the truck behind the rear wheels. I’m thinking two 2 to three foot gussets, as allowed by the space under the truck. I don’t think there’s a practical way to achieve adequate torsional stiffness of the U for a lumber frame to resist twisting if it is loaded in twist. However, you don’t need torsional stiffness if you are using the frame only on a flat floor or driveway.

Such a dolly would be very unwieldy to store, so I would suggest attaching the major pieces with bolts so it can be easily disassembled for storage. That’s what I did with my trestle system. It takes me maybe 20 minutes to set up and 10 to tear down.

I’m a DIY person for everything except major surgery, and i know if one sets their mind to solving something a certain way they often need to follow their idea to a conclusion. (There are probably several episodes of the Red Green Show i could cite here but I won’t bother trying to identify them.). However, just speaking for me here, I would not try to solve the problem of difficulty loading this way. I think there is less risk to your truck and less effort involved in just taking your time and backing your truck carefully under a stationary jacked camper. If you are new to this it will get easier with practice. Get out and look as many times as you need to when backing. I’m getting pretty confident about it after four years but I still do a lot of getting out looking and several resets before finally backing all the way in.

I suggest getting jack extension brackets for your front jacks if you only have two inches of clearance. Four inch extensions should be plenty to reduce your stress and increase your margin for error. You can see my jack extensions in the picture as well. FWC dealers have them or you can make them from steel plate.

Consider applying your DIY skills to making guide boards for the truck bed to assist in loading the camper and to help keep it centered while driving. That’s a project I’m planning for this Spring when the camper goes on.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do, and keep asking questions if needed.
 

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I pretty much agree with Jon, although I think two people guiding the camper onto the truck bed would minimize risk of damage to the truck, and negate the need for rails. Pool noodles or other foam on the jacks would also protect things.

Edit: the more I think about this, the more I’d like to have on that could handle a 10’ hard side camper. Backing down on the Northern Lite in a full size crew cab truck is tedious and nerve wracking beyond words. Thankfully, I don’t have a dually.
 
I pretty much agree with Jon, although I think two people guiding the camper onto the truck bed would minimize risk of damage to the truck, and negate the need for rails. Pool noodles or other foam on the jacks would also protect things.

Edit: the more I think about this, the more I’d like to have on that could handle a 10’ hard side camper. Backing down on the Northern Lite in a full size crew cab truck is tedious and nerve wracking beyond words. Thankfully, I don’t have a dually.
That’s around 3500 lbs, isn’t it? That’s twice what I have to wrestle with mine and I feel like I have reasonably good 6x2 inch casters. Maybe coupling it with one of those battery powered trailer-moving hand cart devices would work. If the front casters were fixed then the front would follow your aim from the back. You’d have to back out to shift it laterally by re-aiming but it would prevent unwanted lateral movement of the front so one person could do it.
 
That’s around 3500 lbs, isn’t it? That’s twice what I have to wrestle with mine and I feel like I have reasonably good 6x2 inch casters. Maybe coupling it with one of those battery powered trailer-moving hand cart devices would work. If the front casters were fixed then the front would follow your aim from the back. You’d have to back out to shift it laterally by re-aiming but it would prevent unwanted lateral movement of the front so one person could do it.
Yes, dry weight on the NL is 3300 lbs. I think I want to ponder making a heavy duty dolly before I tackle it, so thinking more about prototyping with just wood for the Cougar. I found a company that sells very heavy duty casters that look promising.

On the topic of a wood frame , I believe that adding a full width strip of 3/4” ply down the length of the 2x8 rails might provide needed torsional stiffness. The quality of dimensional lumber ain’t what it used to be.
 
Yes, dry weight on the NL is 3300 lbs. I think I want to ponder making a heavy duty dolly before I tackle it, so thinking more about prototyping with just wood for the Cougar. I found a company that sells very heavy duty casters that look promising.

On the topic of a wood frame , I believe that adding a full width strip of 3/4” ply down the length of the 2x8 rails might provide needed torsional stiffness. The quality of dimensional lumber ain’t what it used to be.
The casters I have are 6x2 flat polyurethane casters something like the picture. Mine are rated for 1200 lbs each as I recall. I have fixed at the rear and swivel at the front because that works best for getting the camper into the corner of my garage. Because they are flat, hard polyurethane two inches wide and the front swivel casters have 500-600 lbs on each of them, they do not want to swivel due to the tire friction. I have to try to get the to swivel while rolling, or get down on my knees and swivel them with my hands a little at a time going back and forth between the two casters. I also at times use a 5 foot 2x6 to pry from the floor against the sides of the dolly. I make it work it’s definitely not the effortless camper ballet i was envisioning while building the dolly. It would be way worse with 1000 lbs on each swivel caster.

If your surface can handle the concentrated load (bare concrete floor can, but an epoxy paint surface might be torn up), it might work better if you can find casters with a hard rounded tire profile rather than a flat profile.

Regarding lumber, certainly the consumer lumber places and big box stores have lower strength, cheaper dimensional lumber types. However, if you find the right lumberyard, at least in the PNW you can still get real Douglas fir lumber, which is twice as strong as the “Hem-fir” (hemlock) sold at the big boxes here. Plus it doesn’t twist on drying the way hemlock does. Dunn Lumber sells a variety of spruce that is better than hemlock for twist, strength, and consistency, but still not in the same league as Douglas fir.

I built my big detached garage with 2x6 Douglas fir. It cost a bit more but I felt it was totally worth it. If “the big one” hits and makes our house unliveable that garage will still be standing. It has all the modern earthquake reinforcements.
 
Jon, I have similar casters on the storage dolly, but all 4 swivel. I like being able to push the dolly sideways into the slot if want to keep it in. For a U shaped loading dolly, I am considering going with a smaller diameter (maybe cast iron) wheel.
 
That guy’s system in the video is really slick, but in your case with only two inches of clearance from the truck body to the jacks this sounds like a recipe for paint damage or even denting your truck unless you have additional features to positively align the camper as it moves. This is based on my experience and difficulty precisely moving my Grandby on a conventional dolly with good quality 6 inch casters on a smooth concrete garage floor. It would be even more difficult on a rougher driveway surface. I would like to know what kind of casters that guy uses. I have way more difficulty pushing my camper on the dolly than he appears to have. I wonder if his camper is a shell with much lower weight than mine.

I would not attempt this unless I had guide boards in the bed of the truck that forced the camper to remain centered while sliding in. Even then I think you would get bound up and put high lateral loads on your jacks, which you want to avoid. Another approach would be to use tracks for the casters that can’t slip on the floor.

I built a track system for my dolly to load and unload the camper outside my garage door because the installed camper is 2 inches too tall for my eight foot door, and my driveway has a ramp up into the garage that my dolly can’t roll up and down safely. It’s a completely different approach but shows an inexpensive way to build tracks to guide the casters. The tracks are 2x10s laid flat with plywood strips making the sides of U channels on the 2x10s. I used 2x10s because my tracks are raised and span between support blocks. You could use 2x8s if they are flat on the floor. Getting the loaded dolly on and off you 1.5 inch high tracks to transition from moving around in the garage to on the tracks could be done with the camper jacks. If you blow up the picture you can see my tracks. Notice that I have cross members fixing the distance between the tracks.

Regarding your original question of how you can make a U-shaped dolly frame with adequate stiffness, I think you could achieve adequate stiffness as far as opening and closing the U with 2x8s laid flat and joined with large 3/4 inch plywood gussets at the rear corners taking advantage of the space under the truck behind the rear wheels. I’m thinking two 2 to three foot gussets, as allowed by the space under the truck. I don’t think there’s a practical way to achieve adequate torsional stiffness of the U for a lumber frame to resist twisting if it is loaded in twist. However, you don’t need torsional stiffness if you are using the frame only on a flat floor or driveway.

Such a dolly would be very unwieldy to store, so I would suggest attaching the major pieces with bolts so it can be easily disassembled for storage. That’s what I did with my trestle system. It takes me maybe 20 minutes to set up and 10 to tear down.

I’m a DIY person for everything except major surgery, and i know if one sets their mind to solving something a certain way they often need to follow their idea to a conclusion. (There are probably several episodes of the Red Green Show i could cite here but I won’t bother trying to identify them.). However, just speaking for me here, I would not try to solve the problem of difficulty loading this way. I think there is less risk to your truck and less effort involved in just taking your time and backing your truck carefully under a stationary jacked camper. If you are new to this it will get easier with practice. Get out and look as many times as you need to when backing. I’m getting pretty confident about it after four years but I still do a lot of getting out looking and several resets before finally backing all the way in.

I suggest getting jack extension brackets for your front jacks if you only have two inches of clearance. Four inch extensions should be plenty to reduce your stress and increase your margin for error. You can see my jack extensions in the picture as well. FWC dealers have them or you can make them from steel plate.

Consider applying your DIY skills to making guide boards for the truck bed to assist in loading the camper and to help keep it centered while driving. That’s a project I’m planning for this Spring when the camper goes on.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do, and keep asking questions if needed.
Hey Jon. Really appreciate all of the info. For clarification, that post that I linked wasn't mine, but rather a reply from Stan @ FWC referencing a "U-Shaped" loading frame. While I have plenty of clearance between the jacks and the truck body, I actually have the opposite problem, with the Hawk being fairly tight fit in the truck so I was thinking the loading frame may help expedite installation and reduce damage to siding over time. I'm lucky enough to have a large flat concrete shop with plenty of headroom, so varying surface smoothness/slopes/clearance is not something that I need to worry about.

I like the idea of a wood frame because it is easier to construct and can be easily disassembled for storage. A metal frame is definitely superior as far as strength and rigidity goes, but more difficult to make with the ability to disassemble.

Jon, I have similar casters on the storage dolly, but all 4 swivel. I like being able to push the dolly sideways into the slot if want to keep it in. For a U shaped loading dolly, I am considering going with a smaller diameter (maybe cast iron) wheel.
I've seen quite a few conflicting recommendations, with some recommending fixed casters on one end or swivel on all four corners. I'm torn on which to go with for my storage platform.
 
Hey Jon. Really appreciate all of the info. For clarification, that post that I linked wasn't mine, but rather a reply from Stan @ FWC referencing a "U-Shaped" loading frame. While I have plenty of clearance between the jacks and the truck body, I actually have the opposite problem, with the Hawk being fairly tight fit in the truck so I was thinking the loading frame may help expedite installation and reduce damage to siding over time. I'm lucky enough to have a large flat concrete shop with plenty of headroom, so varying surface smoothness/slopes/clearance is not something that I need to worry about.

I like the idea of a wood frame because it is easier to construct and can be easily disassembled for storage. A metal frame is definitely superior as far as strength and rigidity goes, but more difficult to make with the ability to disassemble.


I've seen quite a few conflicting recommendations, with some recommending fixed casters on one end or swivel on all four corners. I'm torn on which to go with for my storage platform.
If I was doing a U shaped dolly for truck loading I would put fixed casters on the front so the front can only roll in the direction you aim the dolly from the rear. That will prevent unexpected deviations of the front of the dolly. If you need the front casters to swivel for needed motion away from the truck, you might be able to find swivel casters that can have their swivel locked. I know they make them but the size and capacity choices are limited.

Edit: Reading again I see you are asking about your storage dolly, not the U dolly. You see different decisions on casters for storage dollies based on how each of us need to be able to move the dolly given our storage and loading activity. Having only one end on swivel casters makes the motion much more controllable, but doesn’t allow pure sideways motion. If you need to translate directly to the side you need all swivel casters. If you don’t, and are going to have one end fixed, think about how you want to move the camper to park it in its storage location, and locate your casters accordingly. There is no one right answer.

I put mine in a corner right against the walls and I wanted the door accessible, so that dictated swivels on the front for me. It’s like parallel parking. I back toward the slot and locate the left rear wheel on a mark on the floor, and block that wheel as the center of rotation. I then rotate the front until the camper is parallel to the side wall 2 inches away, and roll forward until the front of the camper is 2 inches away from the front wall. That exposes the door to my storeroom and gives me access to the camper door, and the water and power connections. I don’t have access to the propane but don’t need it.

I undo the latches before rolling into the corner so I can raise the roof for storage once it’s in place but still several inches from the front wall. Once the roof is up I push it the last few inches forward.
 

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