Thanks for the great information! I will look in to a UPS unit. It would suck to have to resort back to a cooler if I fried my fridge....ahhh the old days.
A UPS unit would be cheap insurance to protect against high and low voltage situations. For simple plug and play use, you will need to plug it in outside your camper likely, and thus need to keep it clean and dry. These fridges are relatively low current units (on AC) and do not use a compressor motor so do not have high inductive surge currents to worry about. That means most any computer UPS unit should work fine. Most are good for 1KW (Kilowatt or 8 amps AC) loads so our 200W fridge units are about the same load as a typical deskop computer or stereo system. That means you would have plenty of capacity to run other AC loads in your camper, like your 80" LCD big screen TV watching the surfing event on the beach 100 yards away from your camp spot via your HD resolution roof mounted backup camera

. One exception might be if you have a 30amp DC converter (IOTA DLS30) in your camper running full tilt charging a discharged battery or lots of 12V incandescent lights. They can draw up to 8 amps by themselves. The DLS15 draws up to 4amps DC power. So if you trip off your UPS unit, look there first, use your truck to bulk charge your camper battery for a while then plug into AC. Most UPS units now have a LCD voltage display and some sort of load meter, either numeric or a bar display.
My Norcold N300X 2.7cu ft 3 way model has these specs:
AC
120VAC (108-132VAC) (the IOTA 12VDC converter is same AC range)
1.4amps at 110VAC
1.5amps at 120VAC (180 Watts)
DC
12VDC 11.5VDC -15.4VDC)
12amps at 12VDC
14amps at 14VDC (196 Watts)
The AC operating voltage range is quite wide, and I have rarely (none personally) heard of any AC mains voltage related breakdowns.